In the sale listing, it said shorty headers, off road x-pipe, and Flowmaster 40 series catback. It has moments where it sounds great but I swear sometimes the radiator fan is louder than the exhaust, lol.
Progress Thread Finally got my first Fox Body - 1988 GT
- Thread starter DudeStang
- Start date
Steel1
Mustang Master
There's your answer...Flowmasters.
They are notorious for annoying drone, had some on my 93GT when I bought it and at 2-3k rpm you couldn't
have a conversation with the person in the passengers seat.
Although they do have that classic Foxbody sound there are better performing options out there.
If you're looking to reduce drone (not necessarily decibels ) go with a more straight thru muffler design, Dynomax ultra flows, Jones max flows etc.
Listen to some clips for ideas but that's usually the rule of thumb.
They are notorious for annoying drone, had some on my 93GT when I bought it and at 2-3k rpm you couldn't
have a conversation with the person in the passengers seat.
Although they do have that classic Foxbody sound there are better performing options out there.
If you're looking to reduce drone (not necessarily decibels ) go with a more straight thru muffler design, Dynomax ultra flows, Jones max flows etc.
Listen to some clips for ideas but that's usually the rule of thumb.
For what it's worth, just about any aftermarket muffler will drone. Not just Flowmasters. Flows simply have that reputation because they were so ubiquitous on Mustangs, as was the aforementioned drone, hence: Flowmasters = drone.
The drone is more attributable to the lack of consideration for resonant frequencies in aftermarket exhaust components and systems. Factory exhaust systems usually consist of such large mufflers and other components because they're taking resonant frequencies into consideration when designing them.
Here's an informative thread regarding this topic: https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/killing-drone-with-1-4-wave-tubes.861893/
The drone is more attributable to the lack of consideration for resonant frequencies in aftermarket exhaust components and systems. Factory exhaust systems usually consist of such large mufflers and other components because they're taking resonant frequencies into consideration when designing them.
Here's an informative thread regarding this topic: https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/killing-drone-with-1-4-wave-tubes.861893/
Man, based on some previous google/youtube searches, everyone seemed to praise the flowmaster 40 series as the ultimate exhaust sound on the pushrod 5.0. I guess I'll have to look at some other options, haha.
Thanks for the link. Those wave tubes are interesting, never seen anything like that before.
Got my second video up. It's kind of messy and out of order because I'm an idiot and forgot to record some of the parts where I was actually doing the trouble shooting as recommended by folks in this thread. It's basically me making note of the horn issue, procrastinating, and then putting the factory intake back in, lol.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QXUCYycumJE
I'm going to be traveling for a couple of weeks but my plan when I get back is to actually go through the whole car and document everything that needs work and make a plan for the order of addressing the issues, and of course try to fix the horn (or get a working horn installed). There's a Radwood show scheduled for early April in Philadelphia and I was thinking I might try to get the car in decent enough condition to drive it up to Philly and check that out. We'll see though.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QXUCYycumJE
I'm going to be traveling for a couple of weeks but my plan when I get back is to actually go through the whole car and document everything that needs work and make a plan for the order of addressing the issues, and of course try to fix the horn (or get a working horn installed). There's a Radwood show scheduled for early April in Philadelphia and I was thinking I might try to get the car in decent enough condition to drive it up to Philly and check that out. We'll see though.
When you get back to work on that thing, you may have noticed a plastic thingy in the hole where the stock air box draws air from the fenderwell, that is whats called a silencer ( that's what I hear any way. see what I did there? ) pull that off and save it, everybody tosses them away and they will become valuable in the future.
Or send it to me. I'll pay shipping.
Or send it to me. I'll pay shipping.
I see what you did there...
I wish I had the car in front of me at the moment because on Saturday I was looking at the plastic thingy in the hole and it really does look like a factory sort of ram air down there. Is the piece in the fender well one solid part?
The stock intake Fox body hipsters already successfully convinced me to keep the stock CAI setup so I will probably hold onto the silencer as well. If I decide to get rid of it though, I will let you know.
- Jul 12, 2017
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Another air silencer owner here! I got my car a few years ago and it was still in there. I bought my car from an older man I knew though. He just putted his car around and changed the oil on it.
- Mar 2, 2015
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I'm in VA...Fredericksburg. I'd come over and give you a hand with that car man. I dont know why I thought it was a 92...that horn issue is easy to fix. More than likely the horn pad bent out if shape. If you pull straight back in that horn pad it will pop right off. Inside you'll see a yellowish plastic cover. Pop that out and you'll find a copper disc with little bumps on it...and a foam separator. That copper disc is supposed to be slightly dish shaped. Very easy to reshape with your finger tips. The goal is to not have any part of it contacting the lower part...that's what the foam is supposed to keep from happening. If the foam is missing it can be found at a local craft store. Just trim away and reinstall.
My wife has been on my case about all the extra parts in the garage from my 2014, lol. I've been trying to explain to her that my stock mufflers might be worth big money one day. She's not buying it.
Hey man, thanks for the input. Most weekends I'm in Locust Grove, not too far from Fredericksburg. I didn't get a chance to do anything with the horn pad but that's my first priority when I get back from my trip.
Steel1
Mustang Master
Regarding the crusty seal on the back of the stock air box, I would go to a home improvement store of your choice and
purchase some new adhesive foam weatherstripping. They sell it in many different sizes, you could even get some
in a neoprene rubber.
Clean off your old stuff really good , wipe it down with some paint prep, rubbing alcohol etc. and stick down the new stuff.
I'll be taking a trip down to southern VA from CT this weekend , I'll honk on the way by.
purchase some new adhesive foam weatherstripping. They sell it in many different sizes, you could even get some
in a neoprene rubber.
Clean off your old stuff really good , wipe it down with some paint prep, rubbing alcohol etc. and stick down the new stuff.
I'll be taking a trip down to southern VA from CT this weekend , I'll honk on the way by.
I wish I was updating this thread with something substantial (or a new video) but I caught a little cold during the last few days of my trip and won't be spending any time on the cold garage floor today or tomorrow. I did get a small box of goodies from LMR though....
The small box to the right was the SVE 03-04 Cobra style shift knob. It's a small thing but I always loved the shift knob styling in the Terminator Cobras and I think this feels great and looks pretty good in the fox.
In case anyone was worried, I still have the King of Beers shift knob though....I'll keep that around for special occasions, lol.
When I'm not sick, I'm planning on putting the horn button repair pad in and then trying the horns I have one more time just to see if they will work before I order new horns. I was also wondering if anyone here knows the part number for the bracket that holds the two horns, in case I need to get another one.
The small box to the right was the SVE 03-04 Cobra style shift knob. It's a small thing but I always loved the shift knob styling in the Terminator Cobras and I think this feels great and looks pretty good in the fox.
In case anyone was worried, I still have the King of Beers shift knob though....I'll keep that around for special occasions, lol.
When I'm not sick, I'm planning on putting the horn button repair pad in and then trying the horns I have one more time just to see if they will work before I order new horns. I was also wondering if anyone here knows the part number for the bracket that holds the two horns, in case I need to get another one.
I wish I was updating this thread with something substantial (or a new video) but I caught a little cold during the last few days of my trip and won't be spending any time on the cold garage floor today or tomorrow. I did get a small box of goodies from LMR though....
The small box to the right was the SVE 03-04 Cobra style shift knob. It's a small thing but I always loved the shift knob styling in the Terminator Cobras and I think this feels great and looks pretty good in the fox.
In case anyone was worried, I still have the King of Beers shift knob though....I'll keep that around for special occasions, lol.
When I'm not sick, I'm planning on putting the horn button repair pad in and then trying the horns I have one more time just to see if they will work before I order new horns. I was also wondering if anyone here knows the part number for the bracket that holds the two horns, in case I need to get another one.
I would just take a wire wheel to that bracket. Then a little prime and paint, and it will look good as new.
Duly noted on the points about cleaning up the bracket...thanks. I don't have a grinder or surfacing tool but will see what I can borrow or make due with.
On an unrelated note, points were scored for Team "Get Rid of the Ram-Air Hood" tonight, when I took the fox to a car wash and it failed to restart. I ended up pushing the car out of the car wash myself, then fortunately had the assistance of someone else to help push the car to a better spot where I could get a jump start when my wife arrived in the black car.
Good times.
On an unrelated note, points were scored for Team "Get Rid of the Ram-Air Hood" tonight, when I took the fox to a car wash and it failed to restart. I ended up pushing the car out of the car wash myself, then fortunately had the assistance of someone else to help push the car to a better spot where I could get a jump start when my wife arrived in the black car.
Good times.
Steel1
Mustang Master
Those horns are also at chain FLAPS and are louder than stock. On my newer Merc, I need to instal a relay so it will beep when I lock the doors, not just click. But honk and people jump.
I think some of those ram air hoods had a piece underneath to push air where you want it wile going down the road, and it should keep the engine dryer. The piece should be cheaper than a new stock hood and painting it.
I think some of those ram air hoods had a piece underneath to push air where you want it wile going down the road, and it should keep the engine dryer. The piece should be cheaper than a new stock hood and painting it.
Gs1987GT
Active Member
Duly noted on the points about cleaning up the bracket...thanks. I don't have a grinder or surfacing tool but will see what I can borrow or make due with.
On an unrelated note, points were scored for Team "Get Rid of the Ram-Air Hood" tonight, when I took the fox to a car wash and it failed to restart. I ended up pushing the car out of the car wash myself, then fortunately had the assistance of someone else to help push the car to a better spot where I could get a jump start when my wife arrived in the black car.
Good times.
No special tools needed. Just a $5 wire wheel for a drill and a drill and you can get that bracket cleaned up. A bench vise also to hold it would be good.
I saw a piece similar to what you’re describing on American Muscle but it looks like it’s specifically for the Stormin Normin version, which has taller hoof scoops. I sent them a question to see if it will fit my hood but haven’t heard back yet. I will see if someone else offers something similar in the meanwhile. Thanks.
Did a little poking around today, because I couldn't stay inside all day, and noticed something I wanted to highlight...to see if anyone has any solutions or suggestions. There's some rust in/on the engine bay/frame on the driver's side - how much should I be freaking out about this and is there anything I can do to prevent it from getting worse? 
Also, I noticed this wrap looking thing on the passenger side exhaust over-axle pipe. Anyone seen anything like this or know what it might be for? It's only on the passenger side. Driver side looked normal as far as I could see.
Also, I noticed this wrap looking thing on the passenger side exhaust over-axle pipe. Anyone seen anything like this or know what it might be for? It's only on the passenger side. Driver side looked normal as far as I could see.
