Progress Thread Finally got my first Fox Body - 1988 GT

[General karthief]

You can test the horns by holding the horn body to the negative battery post and touch the connector of the horn to the positive post with a wire.
caution: it will scare the sht outta you when it beeps.
To test the wire by using a dvm, red one to the horn wire and black to the frame, put the dial on 12v or 20v (the nearest number above 12v dc) and it will read if there is current.
If you don't have a dvm (digital volt meter) you can use a 12v bulb in a socket. Connect the wires the same way. One to the horn wire and one to ground, push the horn button and it should light up if there is current.
These suggestions should work
I think.
Disclaimer: these suggestions are not based on any real mechanical experience.

 

[DudeStang]

You can test the horns by holding the horn body to the negative battery post and touch the connector of the horn to the positive post with a wire.
caution: it will scare the sht outta you when it beeps.
To test the wire by using a dvm, red one to the horn wire and black to the frame, put the dial on 12v or 20v (the nearest number above 12v dc) and it will read if there is current.
If you don't have a dvm (digital volt meter) you can use a 12v bulb in a socket. Connect the wires the same way. One to the horn wire and one to ground, push the horn button and it should light up if there is current.
These suggestions should work
I think.
Disclaimer: these suggestions are not based on any real mechanical experience.

Thanks for the more detailed explanation. Going to test the horns in the morning.

 

[DudeStang]

Here’s how the horns are mounted/wired on my ‘88

Power in on black wire, jumps between both horns on purple. Grounded to bracket

So I was just looking through the thread and noticed this pic again....and just realized I don’t understand how the horn bracket is mounted to the car exactly. There appear to be no screws in these holes. Is the bracket supposed to welded to the frame or are the screws just not visible in this photo?

 

[CarMichael Angelo]

So I was just looking through the thread and noticed this pic again....and just realized I don’t understand how the horn bracket is mounted to the car exactly. There appear to be no screws in these holes. Is the bracket supposed to welded to the frame or are the screws just not visible in this photo?

The bracket is spot welded to the apron.

 

[DudeStang]

The bracket is spot welded to the apron.

Thanks for confirming. I don’t have any sort of welding tools (or experience) so I would have to have that done by someone else.

I did see a video with a fox body build last night where it appears as though the car’s horns are just directly attached to the apron with no bracket. Any idea if I could get away with something similar or should I just pay to have the bracket welded back in?



It’s a screen shot so might be hard to see but it’s from this video (you can see the horns around the 2:15 mark):

View: https://youtu.be/HkMgDLt8DBw

 

[Mustang5L5]

You just need to ground the horn somewhere. If you bolt direct to apron it should work.

The horns are simple. 12v input to the power plug, and touching the metal bracket to ground completes the circuit.

I would recommend testing the horns first before mounting

 

[Davedacarpainter]

When I say older I'm talking like over 55...

 

[General karthief]

On the horn bracket thing, my 89 gt has the bracket spot welded to the frame but the 91 gt appears to have the bracket bolted on. Strange.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Spot welded on my ‘88, but these threades inserts do line up with an existing hole in the fender...so it could be bolted in.

 

[DudeStang]

You just need to ground the horn somewhere. If you bolt direct to apron it should work.

The horns are simple. 12v input to the power plug, and touching the metal bracket to ground completes the circuit.

I would recommend testing the horns first before mounting

Thanks. Good to know. Going to test the horns with the battery in a little bit. The saga continues, lol.

 

[DudeStang]

Battery test worked, both horns are still functional.

 

[General karthief]

Battery test worked, both horns are still functional.

How high did you jump?

 

[DudeStang]

How high did you jump?

It wasn’t too bad actually...I was prepared to scream though, lol.

So my buddy and I tried the horns again, using both connections with them grounded, and it didn’t work. It seems maybe the connectors (not sure exactly what they are called, pic below) that the horns “plug” into could be the issue. Is there a similar way to test that those are functional, with a battery or something?

I still don’t have a multi-meter tool yet but will try to get one this coming week.

 

[Mustang5L5]

You really need to check for power at that wire to the neg terminal of the battery. It’s possible the wiring is damaged or maybe the horn relay has taken a dump

You can get a cheap multimeter off amazon or eBay. $10 or less

 

[DudeStang]

Got a few shots of inside the wheel well after I got the plastic protector thing out

 

[General karthief]

Not bad at all.

 

[Rdub6]

Got a few shots of inside the wheel well after I got the plastic protector thing out

I absolutely hate putting those inner wheel wells in and out!

 

[DudeStang]

I absolutely hate putting those inner wheel wells in and out!

It was a maddening process taking that one out, lol. Also, look at all the crap that came out

 

[DudeStang]

You really need to check for power at that wire to the neg terminal of the battery. It’s possible the wiring is damaged or maybe the horn relay has taken a dump

You can get a cheap multimeter off amazon or eBay. $10 or less

I will get an MM before the weekend when I can get back to the car. So when you say I need to check for power at that wire, does it need to be at the piece that connects to the horn or can it be anywhere on the wire?

If the wiring is damaged, any idea if I can buy just the replacement wire without having to get the whole horn kit?

On the horn relay note - I was getting a clicking when I pressed the horn button after replacing the pad. Should I assume the clicking is not any sort of confirmation the relay is functional, and may still need to be replaced?

Another thing that hasn't come up yet that I wanted to ask about, is it possible the wiring that connects behind the horn button could also be an issue?

 

[Steel1]

I will get an MM before the weekend when I can get back to the car. So when you say I need to check for power at that wire, does it need to be at the piece that connects to the horn or can it be anywhere on the wire?

If the wiring is damaged, any idea if I can buy just the replacement wire without having to get the whole horn kit?

On the horn relay note - I was getting a clicking when I pressed the horn button after replacing the pad. Should I assume the clicking is not any sort of confirmation the relay is functional, and may still need to be replaced?

Another thing that hasn't come up yet that I wanted to ask about, is it possible the wiring that connects behind the horn button could also be an issue?

Theoretically you "could" check for power anywhere along the wire but you really should check at the connector.
If there is no power there trace the wire back and look for breaks/damage.

If you have a cut or something in the wire you could splice in a new piece of SAME gauge wire with solder and shrink wrap.

Clicking is usually a good sign of a functioning relay.

Circuit could be damaged anywhere.
Keep at it you'll figure it out !