Progress Thread Finally got my first Fox Body - 1988 GT

Take a quick look under each front corner of the car to see if there’s a wire hanging. Only one wire goes to each horn. Maybe you’ll be lucky and the wire is there, and it works when connected.
I found this underneath the driver side and tried to see if the horn worked after plugging in one horn and the other. Neither one worked. Now I’m looking at another thread from a few years back where someone had a horn missing from their 1988.

B3BC4885-1263-4267-AFD9-B93ACB6986F9.jpeg
 
  • Sponsors (?)


Because I’m a master of procrastination and not doing the thing that I’m supposed to be doing, I put the factory cold air intake back on rather than actually try to troubleshoot the horn issue.

I’d like to get an aftermarket intake that puts the filter in the fender but that can wait.
9212083F-2DD0-42FF-A892-187952A739CF.jpeg
 
Throw a K&N filter in that stock box and call it a day. You’ll spend almost $300 bucks on one that you are describing and won’t gain anything out of it. Youll need the adapter that goes where the mass air flow sensor goes if you car is speed density. That thing alone is $70.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
I found this underneath the driver side and tried to see if the horn worked after plugging in one horn and the other. Neither one worked. Now I’m looking at another thread from a few years back where someone had a horn missing from their 1988.

B3BC4885-1263-4267-AFD9-B93ACB6986F9.jpeg
That definitely looks like the horn wire. I guess now the question is whether it’s the wire or horn that’s bad?
Does your lighter work. I believe the same fuse controls both the horn and lighter. Something else to check.
 
I found this underneath the driver side and tried to see if the horn worked after plugging in one horn and the other. Neither one worked. Now I’m looking at another thread from a few years back where someone had a horn missing from their 1988.

B3BC4885-1263-4267-AFD9-B93ACB6986F9.jpeg

That’s the right wire. For the horn to work, it needs to be bolted to the chassis to ground it out.

I have the fenders off my ‘88, I can get a pic of the horns tomorrow.
 
Throw a K&N filter in that stock box and call it a day. You’ll spend almost $300 bucks on one that you are describing and won’t gain anything out of it. Youll need the adapter that goes where the mass air flow sensor goes if you car is speed density. That thing alone is $70.

I thought I had found a reasonably priced BBK intake that worked with the speed density setup but maybe I misunderstood the product description.

Take a quick look under each front corner of the car to see if there’s a wire hanging. Only one wire goes to each horn. Maybe you’ll be lucky and the wire is there, and it works when connected.
That definitely looks like the horn wire. I guess now the question is whether it’s the wire or horn that’s bad?
Does your lighter work. I believe the same fuse controls both the horn and lighter. Something else to check.
The lighter works, I have been able to charge my phone with a lighter adapter plug.

That’s the right wire. For the horn to work, it needs to be bolted to the chassis to ground it out.

I have the fenders off my ‘88, I can get a pic of the horns tomorrow.

That would be awesome man. Thanks a ton. I’ve tried to find a few pics online but not seeing anything that really helps me figure out exactly how to get the horns back in, like where/how they are supposed to be mounted.
 
Thanks! Where is that taken from? I’m an idiot because I’m having a hard time telling...if it’s from underneath looking up or from the side with the wheel and plastic guard thing off

Yes, the inner fender is off in the picture, but you can probably reach it from the front, without removing the wheel and inner fender.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
As mentioned, your stock air intake system is fine. You will waste money buying a "cold air intake". Try hooking the horn wire on the horn, hold the horn bracket against the frame to ground it and have someone push the horn button. Maybe wear earplugs while doing this....if that doesn't work it could possibly be the clock spring in the steering column.

Chris
 
Because I’m a master of procrastination and not doing the thing that I’m supposed to be doing, I put the factory cold air intake back on rather than actually try to troubleshoot the horn issue.

I’d like to get an aftermarket intake that puts the filter in the fender but that can wait.
9212083F-2DD0-42FF-A892-187952A739CF.jpeg
Still speed density but you have the 3G 130A alternator.
BTW, both horns are on the driver's side.
I replaced them with a Wolo Bad Boy air horn. Harbor Freight has it.
 
As mentioned, your stock air intake system is fine. You will waste money buying a "cold air intake". Try hooking the horn wire on the horn, hold the horn bracket against the frame to ground it and have someone push the horn button. Maybe wear earplugs while doing this....if that doesn't work it could possibly be the clock spring in the steering column.

Chris
Now I am waiting for my wife to get home so I can try this, lol
 
I sent a message to the guy I bought it from (2nd owner) and he said he never had the horn on it while he owned it but that the first owner said it started going off randomly and stayed one time in his garage so he unhooked everything and took it all out.

Anyone have experience dealing with that sort of problem?
 
Bad horn pad or relay. Both of which are available.

If you pop the horn pad off there are two wires and two tabs. You can test the pad with a DMM or unhook it here to see if that prevents it from going off if it’s stuck on
 
I plugged the horn wires in and held the horn to the frame and had my wife press the horn, to see if it would do anything, like Mstng93SSP suggested. Nothing.

Will check relay and horn pad next.

Can anyone confirm if this is the horn relay?
BB1F9D8A-1E0A-4DAE-AAA0-BB2F5BCEEC09.jpeg
 
Bad horn pad or relay. Both of which are available.

If you pop the horn pad off there are two wires and two tabs. You can test the pad with a DMM or unhook it here to see if that prevents it from going off if it’s stuck on
So if the previous issue is that the horn was going off randomly, it’s possible the horns themselves are still functional, right?
I guess it’s hard to say without being able to get the horns making noise to replicate the previous problem.

I dont have a DMM but I suppose I should get one because I’m sure this won’t be the only thing I use it for, lol.
 
So if the previous issue is that the horn was going off randomly, it’s possible the horns themselves are still functional, right? Yes.
I guess it’s hard to say without being able to get the horns making noise to replicate the previous problem. True.

I dont have a DMM but I suppose I should get one because I’m sure this won’t be the only thing I use it for, lol. It's a required tool.
Most likely the foam pad has deteriorated to dust.
 
To make sure the horns work you could lay the bracket end on the negative battery post...take a piece of wire and put it on the positive post. Tap the wire on the horn where the plug goes. If it doesn't make noise the horn is bad.

The earlier ( pre airbag horn pads ) are easy to fix. On the 93 there should be buttons on the strering wheel for the horns.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
Advice noted. Thanks again. Any recommendations on a DMM? I’m going to swing by Auto Zone in the morning to pick one up and then take a stab at the steering wheel.
That depends on your budget. Fluke is the best, but costs the most. I wouldn't buy a DMM (DVM) from AutoZone, probably way overpriced. Definitely get an auto-ranging DMM.
This one is advertised as a Fluke & looks a lot like one but it says Thsinde on the face.
If you keep searching, you'll find the same meter for less than $30.


$21.95 on Amazon
Amazon product ASIN B06ZZG2F2NView: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZZG2F2N?tag=t003de-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1


The Fluke that it is copied from is the Model 87-IV - True RMS for $440. I've had one for 15 years, price keeps rising, was $350.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user