I have zero faith in those HP calculators. Every one i use tells me i have 500hp.
****, you're going to pick up some good power from where you're currently at. 330 at the wheel? That might be stretching what you're currently at a bit. I'm going from judgment not math here. I know what my old car ran with 311(dyno)-320 rwhp (depending on what that cold-air intake picked up). It went 112.9 mph with 3150 lbs race weight and 4.10 gears. Are you making more power than I did and only going 110? Probably not. Same power with the extra weight? Sounds pretty close. I'd definitely say you're running at least 300rwhp, which to me has already proven your point. FWIW, I went 110mph the first time at the track with the AFR165/FTI cam/ported cobra intake combo. I went 12.9 though
I can tell you from using both setups, the layout of the tuning software for the megasquirt is much better than binary editor(moates).
One which stands out is the realtime spark and fuel tables. There is a dot that moves around the table, showing you which part of the map the engine is using.
good sofar, waiting to see once you get her set up and knock down your 60ft. any idea what she has for torque ? hp #'s look decent enough. I think the big head theory will come in high in the revs vs some of the smaller head motors. geared right ( tranny & rear ) I think she could scream.
1.58
15" weld draglite wheels, 26" Micky thompson ET Streets (old tubed non-radials) with skinnies up front, 4 cylinder springs up front too, with a removed sway, rear suspension stock with an airbag in rear right. ET was an 11.96That's your mark, and it's definitely reachable given your track performance already. Now show me what's up with this big head, small cam stuff!
Edit: Oh, and the car was a little lighter than yours (maybe I already said that)... Weighed 2976 lbs on 1/4 tank. Lightening stuff: Aluminum heads (obviously), removed A/C, dog-bone, rear tire/jack, 1/4 tank of fuel, sway bar removed. That's about all. Now that you've got me thinking about it, I always wanted/wondered how it would run with a 125-150 shot, & 3.73 gears. Back then, I was planning on going mid 10s with traps in the mid-high 120s. Car was the cleanest stock-looking fox. Even the ash-tray door and the center console worked perfectly. That old car was probably my favorite setup because it was so underestimated (you'll see). I used to outrun blown foxes, LS1s with light bolt-ons, BPU Supras, etc... I got accused of everything from running nitrous to running a stroked 351. They just couldn't believe it was a 302 with a stock bottom-end. That kind of non-belief was the best possible compliment they could have given me. I enjoyed that car so much that I've often thought about getting another car and doing it over again. Maybe next time I'll be doing it with 205cc heads, though
Nik what is your rear end gearing?
3.73 is the perfect street gear. My 4.30s still cruise at 2500 rpms on the highway though
Alright, I'm going to pick your brain a little more. This was an Ed Curtis cam with AFR 165s and a ported Cobra?
1. What was the compression ratio?
Yes. BBK 1 5/8" headers. I ground out the weld where the primaries mate to the exhaust port and opened up the collector as much as I could without causing a leak.2. Did you have long tubes?
Always3. Was that power shifting?
Guess I anticipated that one already4. Mind sharing the cam specs?
I originally had intentions of setting this car up for auto-x (thus the Cobra brakes), but after the car's performance at the drag strip last week, I think my focus is going to be drag, haha. I've drag raced the car before, but it was never fast enough to get really excited about it. Used to be a ~14.3 car with the old E6 heads.
And.... I couldn't help myself: Whitby Motorcars great calculator there with all the stock 302W info already listed for reference. I'm gonna have to save that page to my computer when I get back to it.
Anyway, According to it, my static CR was 9.73
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