Zero Signal said:There is a default payload that goes with CBAZA which has a bunch of stuff selected, it should be a good starting point as to what to log.
jetuomi said:one thing I don't know (going to go hunt down) is howto log the A/F ratio?? its stuck @ 14.75.. on the setup page there are few variables, etc..
jetuomi said:(I'm a programmer so that is not new to me, haha, I've lost many hours of work not making backups b4!!)
jetuomi said:one thing I did notice is that my "advance" gauge is all over the place from 1500+, at idle its 32* solid, but after that its all over the place, I wonder if I have massive spark scatter.. ?? time for a new distributor !
howto log the A/F ratio?? its stuck @ 14.75.. on the setup page there are few variables, etc..
Zero Signal said:Hey RC, have you tuned with a WB yet? Do you have your own WB? Or do you just tune WOT on the dyno/WB? I think it would be cool if somehow later on, we could try to get a group buy WB deal.
94GTLaserRC said:I used the KAMRF A lot for that. If you are at .90, that means youre rich by .10 or 10%. (should be close to one) So you would then go to the A/F table and find the MAF voltage that corresponds to that .90 and lean it out by 10%. (lower the number by 10%) Basically you would be telling the computer that 10% less air is flowing than actually is, so it would cut down the fuel by 10%.
I did this for different cruising speeds only so far, not at WOT. At idle, I run about 5% lean, which is fine. At mild acceleration, I run about 3-5% rich, which is on the safe side. I could cut the fuel a little and get a few more ponies, but at the risk of some of the common "lean" problems.
GOOD LUCK
RC
rockin_rick said:What do you program/languages? Rick
94GTLaserRC said:I used the KAMRF A lot for that. If you are at .90, that means youre rich by .10 or 10%. (should be close to one) So you would then go to the A/F table and find the MAF voltage that corresponds to that .90 and lean it out by 10%. (lower the number by 10%) Basically you would be telling the computer that 10% less air is flowing than actually is, so it would cut down the fuel by 10%.
I did this for different cruising speeds only so far, not at WOT. At idle, I run about 5% lean, which is fine. At mild acceleration, I run about 3-5% rich, which is on the safe side. I could cut the fuel a little and get a few more ponies, but at the risk of some of the common "lean" problems.
GOOD LUCK
RC
Zero Signal said:Yeah, when KAMRF is over 1, then it's trying to lean it adaptively (long term, it applies to WOT). And since your LAMBSE is under, it's trying to lean it in the short term. So you have to adjust your MAF curve to get it closer to it's target. You can change the target of course, but then you'll definitly have to adjust the MAF curve to get it closer to the target. However, since you are pretty close to target, you're well within the EEC adaptive control limits and you probably won't see much performance improvement. Nonetheless, it's nice knowing you're tune is running just right all the time
If I were you, I would buy two new O2's just for the sake of consistency. It could be that one bank is leaner than the other, it's not uncommon. But if you want to really fine tune it, you may want to make sure they're the same age and model sensors.
As for your spark advance, take a look through every table and function that has to do with spark and study what parameters and sensors effect the advance. You'll notice there are OL spark tables and MBT tables. In the functions, you can see how your ECT readings will affect the advance as well as the ACT. For any rpm/load spark tables, you'll notice that the advance decreases with load. I would start by advancing the spark in the low end (up to 2500 rpm's or so) and see if you can make a noticeable diff in torque. Then advance it some up high over 4000. Just be carefull of the midrange spark since you don't want too much advance around your torque peak.
BTW, I have been posting on the TwEECer forum with the name Straighfaced. I use the same avatar in any forum I join anyway.
94GTLaserRC said:1.1 is about 10% lean, but you didnt give the MAM voltage that it occured at. Idle is about 0.5. At idle or low RPM (and MAM voltage) 1.1 is ok.
Mine is about 1.07/8. AS SOON AS I GIVE IT A LITTLE GAS, it goes right down to high 0.9's.
Remember those numbers are functions, which means TWO values, an X and a Y.
Y is a function of X.
RC
wow, that PLX place is close to me. Now I know where to go for a wbo2 kit.Zero Signal said:Hey RC, have you tuned with a WB yet? Do you have your own WB? Or do you just tune WOT on the dyno/WB? I think it would be cool if somehow later on, we could try to get a group buy WB deal.
I've been looking into either the PLX or LM-1 units. I favor the LM-1 for it's options and ability to calibrate itself as well as it's datalogging abilities even though I'll be doing that with the TwEECer. On the other hand, the PLX units have a remote screen that you can mount up on the dash which I think it essential since I plan to have it permanently installed.
What are your thoughts on that?
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/
http://www.plxdevices.com/
I hope I'm not getting too far off topic for this thread! Seems appropiate anyway.
Numbles said:Is tuning with a tweccer really this technical? Im so confused. If I were to buy one, Is there a link to TWEECER for dummies or something. I can somewhat understand what everyone is talking about, but is it worth it to mess with the computer if you running a close to stock motor. I meen, a heads and intake car can ruin with the stock tune with just a small amount of time to adjust.
But unless your running a blower or over 300hp why not just get a tune and let a pro do it?
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