Zero Signal
Active Member
There is a default payload that goes with CBAZA which has a bunch of stuff selected, it should be a good starting point as to what to log.
first day tweecer results!!!
- Thread starter jetuomi
- Start date
Zero Signal said:
well that was it, I put it back in all cleaned up and used the CBAZA strategy and it worked great.. took a log of it idling and warming up, I'm going to go for a 30 minute drive thru-out the range, one thing I don't know (going to go hunt down) is howto log the A/F ratio?? its stuck @ 14.75.. on the setup page there are few variables, etc..
I'll post the log to a link l8r today too..
so far I'm going to adjust just the fan temp today, and make backups as I go.. (I'm a programmer so that is not new to me, haha, I've lost many hours of work not making backups b4!!
one thing I did notice is that my "advance" gauge is all over the place from 1500+, at idle its 32* solid, but after that its all over the place, I wonder if I have massive spark scatter.. ?? time for a new distributor !
haha, so yeah, great 2nd impression with this thing..
mto502
Founding Member
jetuomi said:
You need an external wideband O2 sensor & controller connected up to the EGR sensor input.
jetuomi said:(I'm a programmer so that is not new to me, haha, I've lost many hours of work not making backups b4!!)
What do you program/languages?
jetuomi said:
I don't think that the advance gauge reading like that. I believe that it's showing what the ECM is commanding. Don't waste money on a distro based solely on that. Perhaps it's a tweecer software issue/bug...
Rick
Zero Signal
Active Member
The AFR is not being read form the EEC, like he said that guage is for when you get around to installing a WB O2, which is a must if you really expect to do any real tuning. However, you can tell how your AFR is doing roughly by your KAMRF and LAMBSE values. Your LAMBSE is your target AFR, so if it's really really high, then you're running rich and if it's super low, then you're running lean. And you want to get your KAMRF values as close to 1 through the rpm and load range as you can. You can do that by adjusting the MAF curve (yourself or with EEC Analyzer which is $45).
Oh, and don't worry too much about your advance being all jumpy, it will do that alittle. If it's really going nuts, than you may have a problem somewhere. A bad ECT or loose/frayed wiring will cuase that.
I used the KAMRF A lot for that. If you are at .90, that means youre rich by .10 or 10%. (should be close to one) So you would then go to the A/F table and find the MAF voltage that corresponds to that .90 and lean it out by 10%. (lower the number by 10%) Basically you would be telling the computer that 10% less air is flowing than actually is, so it would cut down the fuel by 10%.
I did this for different cruising speeds only so far, not at WOT. At idle, I run about 5% lean, which is fine. At mild acceleration, I run about 3-5% rich, which is on the safe side. I could cut the fuel a little and get a few more ponies, but at the risk of some of the common "lean" problems.
GOOD LUCK
RC
I did this for different cruising speeds only so far, not at WOT. At idle, I run about 5% lean, which is fine. At mild acceleration, I run about 3-5% rich, which is on the safe side. I could cut the fuel a little and get a few more ponies, but at the risk of some of the common "lean" problems.
GOOD LUCK
RC
Zero Signal
Active Member
Hey RC, have you tuned with a WB yet? Do you have your own WB? Or do you just tune WOT on the dyno/WB? I think it would be cool if somehow later on, we could try to get a group buy WB deal.
I've been looking into either the PLX or LM-1 units. I favor the LM-1 for it's options and ability to calibrate itself as well as it's datalogging abilities even though I'll be doing that with the TwEECer. On the other hand, the PLX units have a remote screen that you can mount up on the dash which I think it essential since I plan to have it permanently installed.
What are your thoughts on that?
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/
http://www.plxdevices.com/
I hope I'm not getting too far off topic for this thread! Seems appropiate anyway.
I've been looking into either the PLX or LM-1 units. I favor the LM-1 for it's options and ability to calibrate itself as well as it's datalogging abilities even though I'll be doing that with the TwEECer. On the other hand, the PLX units have a remote screen that you can mount up on the dash which I think it essential since I plan to have it permanently installed.
What are your thoughts on that?
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/
http://www.plxdevices.com/
I hope I'm not getting too far off topic for this thread! Seems appropiate anyway.
Zero Signal said:
Im getting ready to spend $$ on those chrome bullets, so for now, the WB is out!
I havent tuned at WOT on the Dyno yet. When the blower was put in, they dynoed it, and the AFR crossed about 13.5 at 389HP and mid 5k RPM
That was with NO FMU and 30# injectors. We put the FMU in and I was WAY rich. We put in the 36's and took out the FMU. I didnt dyno it again, but since I was only a little lean with 30#'s, Im sure that Im at least in the safe zone for now.RC
rockin_rick said:
I code a lot of different things.. lately doing Oracle implementations.. (pl/sql, ***, etc, etc) but have done JMS +MQ, Java, C++, VB, C#, etc, etc..
but, haha, my biggest mistake came doing Oracle reports, I was working for like 6 hours one day and it was working and then I made one MINOR change to the layout and it wouldn't work in the apps, couldn't resolve it after 4 hours so I had to revert back to my initial version..
94GTLaserRC said:
okay, so, my KAMxx was 1.1 and my LAMBSE was 13.xx.. so with only an h-pipe it seems that I'm running lean? (with a 190lph pump).. maybe I should change my filter..
what else was wierd was that my HEGO02 was at a .8 volts and HEGO01 was .5, and then the whole ride the HEGO would drop to the red (0.0) back upto .5 (or .8), etc, etc, showing that it wanted to make it richer, correct?? why is the one O2 .3 volts higher than the other, is that age? (so, the answer seems obvious since I changed the one o2 sensor 2 years ago and the other is 5 years ago).. pretty cool stuff..
so here is another dumb question, why is the spark advance lower as the load increases? its like 33* at 10% load and 9% at 90% load ? does that make sense to be that radical? or can I adjust these values in this table a lot? or should I just play with the global timing advance?
I'm reading a lot on the tweecer forums.. are all you guys over there too?
Zero Signal
Active Member
Yeah, when KAMRF is over 1, then it's trying to lean it adaptively (long term, it applies to WOT). And since your LAMBSE is under, it's trying to lean it in the short term. So you have to adjust your MAF curve to get it closer to it's target. You can change the target of course, but then you'll definitly have to adjust the MAF curve to get it closer to the target. However, since you are pretty close to target, you're well within the EEC adaptive control limits and you probably won't see much performance improvement. Nonetheless, it's nice knowing you're tune is running just right all the time
If I were you, I would buy two new O2's just for the sake of consistency. It could be that one bank is leaner than the other, it's not uncommon. But if you want to really fine tune it, you may want to make sure they're the same age and model sensors.
As for your spark advance, take a look through every table and function that has to do with spark and study what parameters and sensors effect the advance. You'll notice there are OL spark tables and MBT tables. In the functions, you can see how your ECT readings will affect the advance as well as the ACT. For any rpm/load spark tables, you'll notice that the advance decreases with load. I would start by advancing the spark in the low end (up to 2500 rpm's or so) and see if you can make a noticeable diff in torque. Then advance it some up high over 4000. Just be carefull of the midrange spark since you don't want too much advance around your torque peak.
BTW, I have been posting on the TwEECer forum with the name Straighfaced. I use the same avatar in any forum I join anyway.
If I were you, I would buy two new O2's just for the sake of consistency. It could be that one bank is leaner than the other, it's not uncommon. But if you want to really fine tune it, you may want to make sure they're the same age and model sensors.
As for your spark advance, take a look through every table and function that has to do with spark and study what parameters and sensors effect the advance. You'll notice there are OL spark tables and MBT tables. In the functions, you can see how your ECT readings will affect the advance as well as the ACT. For any rpm/load spark tables, you'll notice that the advance decreases with load. I would start by advancing the spark in the low end (up to 2500 rpm's or so) and see if you can make a noticeable diff in torque. Then advance it some up high over 4000. Just be carefull of the midrange spark since you don't want too much advance around your torque peak.
BTW, I have been posting on the TwEECer forum with the name Straighfaced. I use the same avatar in any forum I join anyway.
1.1 is about 10% lean, but you didnt give the MAM voltage that it occured at. Idle is about 0.5. At idle or low RPM (and MAM voltage) 1.1 is ok.
Mine is about 1.07/8. AS SOON AS I GIVE IT A LITTLE GAS, it goes right down to high 0.9's.
Remember those numbers are functions, which means TWO values, an X and a Y.
Y is a function of X.
RC
Mine is about 1.07/8. AS SOON AS I GIVE IT A LITTLE GAS, it goes right down to high 0.9's.
Remember those numbers are functions, which means TWO values, an X and a Y.
Y is a function of X.
RC
Zero Signal said:Yeah, when KAMRF is over 1, then it's trying to lean it adaptively (long term, it applies to WOT). And since your LAMBSE is under, it's trying to lean it in the short term. So you have to adjust your MAF curve to get it closer to it's target. You can change the target of course, but then you'll definitly have to adjust the MAF curve to get it closer to the target. However, since you are pretty close to target, you're well within the EEC adaptive control limits and you probably won't see much performance improvement. Nonetheless, it's nice knowing you're tune is running just right all the time
If I were you, I would buy two new O2's just for the sake of consistency. It could be that one bank is leaner than the other, it's not uncommon. But if you want to really fine tune it, you may want to make sure they're the same age and model sensors.
As for your spark advance, take a look through every table and function that has to do with spark and study what parameters and sensors effect the advance. You'll notice there are OL spark tables and MBT tables. In the functions, you can see how your ECT readings will affect the advance as well as the ACT. For any rpm/load spark tables, you'll notice that the advance decreases with load. I would start by advancing the spark in the low end (up to 2500 rpm's or so) and see if you can make a noticeable diff in torque. Then advance it some up high over 4000. Just be carefull of the midrange spark since you don't want too much advance around your torque peak.
BTW, I have been posting on the TwEECer forum with the name Straighfaced. I use the same avatar in any forum I join anyway.
awesome, thanks, drop me an email, [email protected] and in the next few days I can send you some stocker datalogs..
Zero Signal
Active Member
Yeah I think I'm going to end up with the PLX unit as well. The LM-1 is more and for what I would save, I can buy EEC Analyzer.
Numbles
Active Member
Is tuning with a tweccer really this technical? Im so confused. If I were to buy one, Is there a link to TWEECER for dummies or something. I can somewhat understand what everyone is talking about, but is it worth it to mess with the computer if you running a close to stock motor. I meen, a heads and intake car can ruin with the stock tune with just a small amount of time to adjust.
But unless your running a blower or over 300hp why not just get a tune and let a pro do it?
But unless your running a blower or over 300hp why not just get a tune and let a pro do it?
Numbles said:
WHole thing is...If you were gonna buy a chip anyways, you just buy this ONCE and be done..unless your combo was finished for good!
You could start out with easy basic stuff like rev limiter, fan settings, and in my case, AODE shift points and tranny pressures.
As you work with these you would read up on the other stuff, which really just consists of A/F curves and spart tables. There are about 500 other things on there, but you dont touch those!
RC
The tweecer costs about as much as a chip and a couple dyno tunes. With the tweecer, you can change whenever you want and keep your car running well as you upgrade without any additional investment.
It's probably not easy to use, but on the other hand, you might be able to copy somebody's tune and that should be pretty easy.
It's probably not easy to use, but on the other hand, you might be able to copy somebody's tune and that should be pretty easy.
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