First start up using megasquirt.. 1992 5.0.

so whats with the "Ideal gas law" Not being so ideal and pulling so much dam fuel? my cars fine.. but when im stuck in traffic or even on hot starts.. the cars pulling to much fuel.. even with the clt mat correction curve done... is there another chart or graph that i need to enable to stop this from happening? its gettin very annoying having to add VE in my idle range every time the mat gets high or i drive for long periods of time and then get stuck in stop and go traffic?.. same with hot starts.. also i have no idea why my hot starts are effected by this. they were perfectly fine until i added that clt mat curve.. now they are :poo:..
 
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The ideal gas law is just that, ideal.... it's based on physics. The mat/clt curve should account for it, when sitting for very long periods of time idling the intake temps reach clt value. Or so they seem to, you can try using ego at idle it helps.

You can also try to "disable mat correction" at ase.
 
The ideal gas law is just that, ideal.... it's based on physics. The mat/clt curve should account for it, when sitting for very long periods of time idling the intake temps reach clt value. Or so they seem to, you can try using ego at idle it helps.

You can also try to "disable mat correction" at ase.
disable MAT during ASE is turned on so that factor is not there,, like when im driving its fine.. come to a stop afrs are in check... its mostly the heatsoak from say going into a store for 5 mins coming out and firing up the car.. ive got a datalog of it.. i duno ive tried alot to tune it out.. but ive had little to no luck.. seems it i get it to go away something else is out of wack.. like the domino effect., but i think maybe my initial values are alittle to high and is causing the lean when lifting after cruising cause as the idle valve closes the afrs go back to target so im gonna pull a few percent out of it to see if that helps.. im kinda chasing my tail with this. cause like i said get one thing resolved.. another pops up
 

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On restart look at the ase afterstsrt enrichments

ive added more percent and a longer taper time to my hot area of the ASE I have my 150temps and up like 5% more then what they were before and added a lot more taper time... still no help... heres a perfect example of what im talking about.. at the beginning if you look at the pulse width coolant temp and manifold temp they are all in the range of 170mat 189clt and 3.7-3.8 pulse width.. now with those factors where they are i should be at a afr of 14.3-14.4 when i compare this start to any other start or idling datalog.. the 3 variables are the same.. but the afrs are lean in one datalog and in the other they are on target.. ,, i hope im explaining what i mean abit better.. It just seems weird that at that coolant temp,MAT temp< pulse width that id be so lean when in other datalogs it shows me at the same temps and PW being on target with my afrs..
 

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whats the best way to build a initial values table for closed loop... i finally figured out my lean starts and stuff.. the inital values table that you had set up was allowing to much air in now that my cars finally all set and not leaking anywhere.. so whats the best way to come up with a table? like i kno i could sweep the valve and timing. but is there any other way to get a decent baseline? i removed a few points from the hot side of the inital values table and now my hot starts are bang on 13.8-14.3 for afr.. even my hot idle is in the same range.. but id like to build a decent table and im not sure how to go about it..
 
you could see where the PWM valve is at stable idle, then use that value with a few % added to it. The tests are to give a baseline value, you will need to do a but of trial and error for the final values.

i will assume since you are blaming the valve position, that the valve was opening farther than needed and the idle speed was being held down with timing on start-up yes? This is a part of the tuning procedure and does take a bit of time to work out. now you may also need to check the cranking pwm% table as well. Remember that on hot start the engine does not look at the initial values table until the crank to run taper time is over.
 
you could see where the PWM valve is at stable idle, then use that value with a few % added to it. The tests are to give a baseline value, you will need to do a but of trial and error for the final values.

i will assume since you are blaming the valve position, that the valve was opening farther than needed and the idle speed was being held down with timing on start-up yes? This is a part of the tuning procedure and does take a bit of time to work out. now you may also need to check the cranking pwm% table as well. Remember that on hot start the engine does not look at the initial values table until the crank to run taper time is over.

No i was blaming the valve position because of where the idle valve started off when closed loop came on.. It was starting so high that the car was going lean and then settleing into the idle rpm and afr.. And when i was hot starting. The duty steps to start were fine. But after the initial startup and closed loop came on. Again the idle valve started to high and made the car lean. Then it fell into idle rpm and richened up.. The car starts fine cold.. Just seems that the idle valve is too high when closed loop comes on..
 
But i can also see in the datalogs that when i lift off the throttle and closed loop engages. The idle is way higher then it should be.. I get the idle should be alittle bit higher then the target idle and then settle into target.. But the values i have were settling to high and causing it to go lean" more air less fuel goes lean" .. Same thing with my hot starts. Fire up car everythings good. Closed loop engages then idle valve goes to said postion causing to much air to be introduced making the car go lean. Then a few seconds as the idle valve falls into target. Car gets back into the afr range it should be.. Today i actually sat there. Got the car hot and gave it throttle while removing a few points of percent until the idle was no longer lean "which in the beginning of the datalog you can see me give it gas and as it returns to idle the idle valve is at 32.5% causing the afr to be in the 15.0 range which is no good" then you can see with every adjustment i make the idle returns to a better afr when it returns to idle, also it returns to the idle area alot faster and doesnt climb in kpa then return.. Also it really helped my hot starts too. On a hot start now it fires up. Idles nice. Afr gauge comes on. Im at 14.3 afr and a idle valve duty of 29% before it was 15.8 afr and a idle valve. Duty of 32.9%... You can see what i mean in this datalog... the hot start at the end PLEASE Ignore the higher map.. its cause before i figured out the idle valve was causing this i added more steps and a few % to my ASE thinking that was the problem.. which it turned out not to be the case... but you can see thru the whole datalog where im removing % from the idle valve in the initial values table and the afrs and idle is getting better.. A few more tweaks here and there and it should be back to where it was.. Now i hope your understanding what i mean.. im not blaming anything just pointing out the obvious
 

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I have not been reviewing the datalogs, I'm not near my PC most of the day. Now with the idle valve opening further than needed for the idle speed you want, it will push the ve table into a higher rpm/map area. Doing this makes the afr change to the cruise area of the map. So what you are describing is very likely. Review your target afr vs idle duty%
 
Looks like i got some mechanical digging to do thru my car.... somethings out of wack again... for the life of me i cannot get a stable idle in open loop so i can sweep my valve to build a decent initial values table... its really weird tho.. i can idle my car as low as 500rpm possibly even lower with the idle valve unplugged... even with the idle valve plugged in i was able to idle my car to 600rpm.. so somewhere somehow my cars got some kind of demon making it act stupid.. Ughhh not impressed at all.. but i guess ima start digging thru this car to see WTF is going on
 
Check out the idle valve tuning, start with the Valve tuning in advanced mode. Use

P=30
I=50
D=0

Set the slider to around 1k to start, set the idle target to around 950 and adjust the slider with the timing locked until the idle is stable around the target idle speed.
 
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Check out the idle valve tuning, start with the Valve tuning in advanced mode. Use

P=30
I=50
D=0

Set the slider to around 1k to start, set the idle target to around 950 and adjust the slider with the timing locked until the idle is stable around the target idle speed.

i found the problem.. My buddy was being a dick and he turned my throttle body screw out so he basically messed up my whole tune... but ive got it set back to where it was before and now its stable as it was... whatta fricken guy eh
 
Well that's not cool.....

your telling me.. apparentlly he did it a on sunday at the car show.. i knew the car was running rich .. just wasnt sure why.. then i went thru my tune to make sure i didnt screw something up... then i asked him today if he touched anything while he was lookin under my hood at the car show and he says " Ya i twisted your idle screw out haha " I kno now not to trust that **** near my car again... and i might break his fingers for doin it
 
hey steve Do you have any other decent timing tables? Im gettin bored of mine, LOL id like to get some made up so i can switch them out for different styles of driving. but i have no idea how to go about it without usin a dyno lol... cars running great tho Zero complaints so far.