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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
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Brakes First Test Drive Did Not Go So Well, Having Some Issues.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Venom351R
  • Start date Start date May 31, 2012
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VibrantRedGT

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Jun 1, 2012
#21
  • Jun 1, 2012
  • #21
Since I worked for Cardone for so many years the rule of thumb from all the training is: Hard Pedal=Brake booster, Soft Pedal or Pedal Goes to Floor=Master Cylinder.
 

Venom351R

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#22
  • Jun 1, 2012
  • #22
Yeah I know that now lol. Going to try to get out of work a little early so I can get this last thing done before it gets to late tonight
 

Venom351R

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#23
  • Jun 1, 2012
  • #23
Set it all up the way I described before and took it for another test drive, this time on actual roads. Was nice to have breaks first of all. The temp stayed at 180 even though the low coolant light was on but I think I just need to dump more in the over flow tank. Oil PSI was at 50. I do have a serious exhaust leak I can see some of the bolts on the headers are backing out and need to be redone. I also have a coolant leaking out by the thermostat housing....yes I know shock for a 94/95 Mustang

Not sure if it was due to the exhaust leak or no tune on the car yet but it felt very dogish like to the point that my STI would kick the snot out of it lol. I only took it up to 4,000 RPM's but I could tell it was seriously lacking power. When I had the upper intake off the wires for the TPS sensor came disconnected ( the 3 wires ) they are held together with a butt connector b/c of the fox TB swap. I was not sure which was was the correct way to connect them but it seemed to idle fine. Also just noticed that the upper radiator hose has a grove in it from hitting the alt pully, need to find a way to get that upper hose out of the way. I already cut it shorter to move it further away from the pulley but looks like more needs to be done.

Are these wires connected correctly?




Been a long time since it has been outside so I figured a bath was in order. The amount of dust that collected on it was pretty bad.





 

Noobz347

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#24
  • Jun 1, 2012
  • #24
Sweet! Gotta get the e-brake done too huh?
 

Venom351R

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#25
  • Jun 1, 2012
  • #25
no its just really steep there even though it does not look like it. The E brake works fine I tested it but I'm over cautious lol
 

RIO5.0

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#26
  • Jun 5, 2012
  • #26
According to my notes... you have it messed up for sure.
brown/white to orange
grey/white to green
red/grey to black
 

Venom351R

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#27
  • Jun 5, 2012
  • #27
Thanks Andy, I took it out this afternoon after swapping a few of the wires but they were still not right. I did it by the way you listed and it idle's like it did when it first started up and has more power then it did before, even though it still feels lack luster but I think its running pig rich and it needs a tune.

I got a new upper radiator hose and cut it so it wont hit the alternator pulley. Also there is no more coolant leak like before. I thought for sure the housing was leaking by the thermostat b/c it was wet under it and there was a puddle on the water pump. But after driving it twice today there is no coolant coming out of it at all. No idea where the coolant before came from b/c even though the other upper hose did get cut by the alt pulley it did not cut through it, just put a groove in it. Either way its going to get tuned later on this month.

Andy how close are you to Hudson NH? I'm having it done at pro tree performance.
 

RIO5.0

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#28
  • Jun 5, 2012
  • #28
Have you looked at a plug to see whats what? you could be lean and might need to add fuel? You recheck the timing after its up to temp? I run my 331 of the stock puter and it runs the balls pretty much. I wouldnt think you'd be that far off.... it shouldnt be running that bad. I'd check the above and see if it responds. You verify the voltage at the TPS to see where it is?

Hudson aint that far...maybe an hour at most. Give me a heads-up and I'll take the bike down with you. Why not use Pete to dyno tune??
 

Venom351R

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#29
  • Jun 7, 2012
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pete is to hard to get ahold of and the only time he can do tunes is on the weekends. I contacted him to get the tune redone and he never got back to me, so I'll just go somewhere else.

The car runs great with the TPS wires connected correctly. Its still going off the old tune that was burned with the AFR heads and TFSR intake. Only thing that is still the same is the cam. I'll check a plug and see what it looks like. I did not check the voltage on the TPS, a multimeter is one of the few things I dont have.
 

Noobz347

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#30
  • Jun 7, 2012
  • #30
Venom351R said:
The car runs great with the TPS wires connected correctly. Its still going off the old tune that was burned with the AFR heads and TFSR intake. Only thing that is still the same is the cam. I'll check a plug and see what it looks like. I did not check the voltage on the TPS, a multimeter is one of the few things I dont have.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't worry about that portion too much other than to ensure that the wires are correct. TPS votage is referenced on startup and the EEC scales accordingly so long as voltage is anywhere in the reference range.
 

Venom351R

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#31
  • Jun 7, 2012
  • #31
well I know how it ran/idled before the wires were undone and the differance that it made when they were not connected correctly. It now idles and runs as though it did before they got mixed up.
 

RIO5.0

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#32
  • Jun 7, 2012
  • #32
Venom351R said:
well I know how it ran/idled before the wires were undone and the differance that it made when they were not connected correctly. It now idles and runs as though it did before they got mixed up.
Click to expand...

Great...sounds like things are ok. I'm gonna start putting my motor back together next week. Maybe we can bring em both down....
 

Venom351R

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#33
  • Jun 7, 2012
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Not to sure when I'll be going down yet, it will be soon but hes on vacation and been tough to get ahold of. Mine will be there for a few weeks before its tuned, Im also having them put the cats on and the catback system b/c it needs some modification to fit properly.
 

95opal

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#34
  • Jun 7, 2012
  • #34
like stated you have no vac to the tree trav. you have your
brake booster, HVAC, and cruise connected but nothing feeding them VAC.
 

Venom351R

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#35
  • Jun 7, 2012
  • #35
Its been fixed for days rich but thanks lol
 

Venom351R

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#36
  • Jun 9, 2012
  • #36
Got the livewires on today after they were on back order forever! Had to have summit call DUI and have them send the stupid things out to me. Anyway the engine mods are complete. Found a few loose spark plugs when doing the wires, prob had a lot to do with why it was kinda lacking some power. Tightened those back up and took it for another drive, everything seemed good (except for the small seeping coolant leak from the thermo housing which I'll have the dyno shop fix, Im doing doing stuff to it for awhile now) and did a nice little lighting up of the tires in first gear Been along time since I have been able to do that, the STI is not to good at burn outs lol. Also fixed the brake pad dragging on the caliper issue. No rubbing now and it brakes really well again.


 
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RIO5.0

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#37
  • Jun 9, 2012
  • #37
Sweet...Good to here its running ok and the motor looks nice.....
I can't remember the last time I didn't have a thermo leak... mine does that chit all the time and it really pisses me off. It's like the only leak I ever have. And I swapped it twice???
Im gonna put 2" of that Great stuff goop on there this time... or JB weld the mother...

I had to put 2 tires on the bike and worked on that today... got her all pimped out for a ride to Laconia for bike week this Wednesday.. bout a dozen of us from work call in sick and head up to see the Wild Turkey Bourbon girls....

View attachment 148219
 

Venom351R

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#38
  • Jun 9, 2012
  • #38
Now thats worth calling out of work for..........

Id redo the thermostat again myself but I dont want to deal with coolant leaking all over everything, ing gets everywhere.
 
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