Fixed e break.. Now brakes are locked up..
- Thread starter billison
- Start date
Maryland Stang
Active Member
ok, thought I'd give an update. I've replaced the drivers side cable and started adjusting the brakes. The ebrake now works. I've not driven the car yet. I still got a bit more adjusting on the brakes to do, i'm not really sure what i'm looking for as far as how tight to get them, i've mainly aimed for them being even at this point. any advise here? Like with the rear end in the air should it be strong enough to kill the engine? The book just says get them where they start to drag a little them back it off a bit.
I'll be doing the other side soon, but for now it works. the car is not being driven, so no worries, i'll make sure it's right before it gets driven.
I'll be doing the other side soon, but for now it works. the car is not being driven, so no worries, i'll make sure it's right before it gets driven.
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
I've always tightened the star wheel until the wheel is hard to turn (to center things), then back off the star wheel until the wheel just spins freely. The brakes shouldn't be dragging. If it's stopping in one turn from brake drag, that's too tight.
Once you have them adjusted up, driving in reverse at 5mph or so and stabbing the brake pedal a few times will keep them adjusted.
Maybe this can help if you are a visual person
Once you have them adjusted up, driving in reverse at 5mph or so and stabbing the brake pedal a few times will keep them adjusted.
Maybe this can help if you are a visual person
I'll be checking it all, it's getting harder to get stuff done, it's dark around 5 and it's about 20* outside now. my main goal is to get the other cable swapped ( it seems to work fine but i like to have it all even.) as well as the brake hardware. The main thing is this, there is a light at the end of this tunnel.
Is it causing the engine to stall at idle when you press hard on the brake petal? Or, are you still talking about just using the e-brake? Stomping on the petal hard with the engine just idling in gear should cause it to stall, but just the e-brake alone generally won't.
I also have to add that it will make a difference depending on your rear end gearing, and how healthy the engine is running, and also general idle speed.
With 410's, I almost would think that you wouldn't be able to stall the engine, I was more referring to the stock 273's. Remember, with the 410's you have almost twice the amount of torque going to the axles then you would have stock. IMHO, I think you are good! I'm glad you got it all working and everything back together alright! I would say mission accomplished, if it were me!
I know it is bad advice, and kinda dangerous, but the best road test for back brakes in a fox body is to get the car going 35-40 mph and brake really hard with the clutch in, and if the rear locks up, your good. Probably shouldn't follow my advice for safety sake...
91TwighlightGT
20+ Year Stangneter 
Just do be clear, did you replace the cables on both sides? It is my experience that if one is bad, the other is either also bad or on it's way out.
Ok, did the drive test. It stops fine. I did lots of driveway test, then found a slow road and got them to lock up a few times. The parking brake won't lock them up, but it does let me park on a incline. I'll be replacing everything on the passenger side this week some time. Thanks for all the help! Stangnet ftw!
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
wait, you did a one sided brake job? You have new shoes and hardware on one side all adjusted up and the other side old shoes, hardware and not adjusted? That's not advisable.
I've said multiple times I'm doing the other side.. Minus test drives, it's not being driven.
The other side will be done this week, I was fixing the side with the issue first, the passenger side is next. I'm aware that you gotta do both sides.
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