For the Rustoleum Haters....

#7
AWESOME! :nice:

Did you roll on, or spray? What kinda dilution did you use (thinned 50/50 with mineral spirits, or more thin)? I've been wanting to wetsand the Rustoleum on my notch for ages, but I think by now it just needs a full sand and recoat. Besides, I did some crappy prep work in a few spots that I need to strip, reprime, and repaint entirely. But even in its prime, it never looked THAT good. That's killer!
 
#8
car%20wax%20001.jpg


nice. :nice:
 
#9
Darkwriter77 said:
AWESOME! :nice:

Did you roll on, or spray? What kinda dilution did you use (thinned 50/50 with mineral spirits, or more thin)? I've been wanting to wetsand the Rustoleum on my notch for ages, but I think by now it just needs a full sand and recoat. Besides, I did some crappy prep work in a few spots that I need to strip, reprime, and repaint entirely. But even in its prime, it never looked THAT good. That's killer!
Click to expand...


I sprayed it 50/50 with mineral spirits, but even at that dilution, it took FOREVER to dry.... It still felt tacky a week after I stopped spraying a coat a day for 8 days. It has been on there for about a month now and it feels hard as nails.

I actually spent more money in prep work than I did on paint...

Sanding blocks: $45
Sand paper: $75
Primer: $50
Tape/Paper: $10
One gallon paint: $30
Two gallons Mineral Spirits: $20 (I used part of the extra gallon to clean the gun and misc other things).

I figured if I am going to be painting anymore cars, the blocks would be worth it. In one of the pics you can see the reflection of another car I am going to paint, but with a very high end paint system.
 
#12
I don't think I dig the idea, why not just use actual auto body materials, the rustoleum is a single step paint right?? I would think you could pick up some laquer based paint and have a much nicer job. You said the paint was still tacky a week later, just doesnt sound right to me
 
#13
I will never use a laquer on my car. Any paint I have ever used has taken months to completely dry out, ask any auto repair guy.

My paint wasn't really tacky, you could just tell it wasn't completely dry at the time.

I swap out body parts ALOT. I like the fact that I can get a $6 quart of paint and paint a new panel, or touch up existing paint when someone dings my car, or while buffing I burn through to the primer.

I am all about going fast, and looking decent while doing it. The only reason I painted my car was because of the primer fading. I had to primer the car because of all the dent repairs that I made when I bought the car. Now I can look decent and not feel ashamed of the stained primer. Not to mention the fact that I am a broke college student, and what little money I have left over goes to my engine fund for a fuel injected 557.
 
#14
Good deal, was just curious as to why the rustoleum. I give you 2 thumbs up as to the result final finish!! I couldnt get that nice of a finish ever, I am no painter by far!
 
#15
I have painted all my own stuff for a couple years now. I have done 3 black Mustangs, a yellow Mustang, couple of white Mustangs, white and blue Explorers, red F150 etc....I must say....your paint job looks great to me.

I have used mostly base/clear products. I like them. I do not use a booth. They are dry to touch with in 12 hours. I wait a full 48-72 hours before I wetsand and rub. The only thing I do not like about base/clear is that it does shrink. It takes 60-120 days to cure depending on environmental conditions. It may show sand scratches, or body work. Now I am being really really really picky though. You have to get about 1-2 inches too see what I pick at. From 4 inches to 1,000,000 inches away it looks perfect with good prep work.

I have used Nason's single stage paint a couple of times. I love this stuff!!! It takes about the same time to dry. But it cures right away. It will NOT shrink. I painted this yellow Mustang with it, and I cannot find one sand scratch or imperfection. You can put on as many coats as you want. When you wetsand, you do not have to worry about going through clear because there is none. You can wet sand much longer and get it more flat than clear coat. You mix paint, reducer, and hardener all in one paint cup. 8:2:1 This paint is also hard as a rock....I have leaned on it, nicked it whatever....no chips or scratches. It can stand up to blows 60psi more than base/clear can. This is what I am using on my next yellow stang....("Project 81 Hack Job")
 
#16
Where can I get Nason paint? I had heard once before that Napa sells it, but my local Napa only sells "Martin Senoir" or something to that effect. Are they the same product? I got a buddys drag car I wanna try some wild graphics on.
 
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