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Ford Carlisle 2010 ***PICS THREAD***

  • Thread starter Thread starter ProKiller
  • Start date Start date Jun 6, 2010
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4Jenna

Founding Member
Sep 12, 2001
4,326
6
69
AZ
Jun 15, 2010
#41
  • Jun 15, 2010
  • #41
Awesome pics, looks like alot of fun!

-CE
 

95opal

5 Year Member
Nov 16, 2004
449
20
39
Jun 16, 2010
#42
  • Jun 16, 2010
  • #42
View attachment 216093

 

drakesdad

Member
Jul 29, 2005
961
0
16
Oregon OHIO
Jun 16, 2010
#43
  • Jun 16, 2010
  • #43
Rich,
I feel that might be a hint, you planning on a change under the hood???
 

69clark

Founding Member
Sep 25, 2002
731
7
18
Ravena, NY
Jun 17, 2010
#44
  • Jun 17, 2010
  • #44
drakesdad said:
Rich,
I feel that might be a hint, you planning on a change under the hood???
Click to expand...

LOL, don't put it past him.
 

nmcgrawj

Advanced Member
Sep 28, 2003
3,651
4
68
Indianapolis, IN
Jun 17, 2010
#45
  • Jun 17, 2010
  • #45
at 415rwhp with just a tune i wouldnt hesitate!
 

MysteryMachine

Active Member
Jun 21, 2003
1,835
2
39
Parkesburg, PA
Jun 18, 2010
#46
  • Jun 18, 2010
  • #46
To quote Rich at Carlisle "When I don't need emissions anymore I'm going solid lifters and going balls to the wall"

I assume a non pushrod motor don't have lifters so that wouldn't work lol
 

Killercanary

The car that set the bar.
Founding Member
Nov 29, 1999
5,676
1
76
Altoona, PA
Jun 18, 2010
#47
  • Jun 18, 2010
  • #47
I'm SERIOUSLY considering that swap myself. The engine, hydroboost setup, computer and wire harness will run around $8,500. I'll still need a fuel system and accessories though too. It seems like a lot but the car should prove to be extremely streetable and up the cool factor by 10! I figure I can offset nearly all of that cost by selling my current setup and turbo kit. I was dead set on this swap until I drove the car to Carlisle as that drive reminded me of how streetable and fast my car is now.
 

ProKiller

Founding Member
Apr 26, 2002
3,064
15
78
PA
Jun 18, 2010
#48
  • Jun 18, 2010
  • #48
if i was going to do it, i would buy a shell and start from scratch. perhaps a junker v6 with some front end damage or a blown engine would be best.
 

95riosnake

Member
Dec 21, 2003
630
0
17
Pittsburgh, PA
Jun 19, 2010
#49
  • Jun 19, 2010
  • #49
Well guys I figured out why my car has been running so hot... The fan doesn't turn on haha. I checked it by turning the ac on max and it still doesn't turn on. I have a feeling it's either the ccrm or the fan motor itself. I'm going to try the ccrm first. Will this one work?
Relay Control Module by BWD - Part RCM12M - Advance Auto Parts

I've had the fan motor short out before and had to replace it, but it smoked and smelled like burning electronics when it happened. I haven't seen smoke or smelled burning so I am thinking it isn't the fan motor.
 

nmcgrawj

Advanced Member
Sep 28, 2003
3,651
4
68
Indianapolis, IN
Jun 19, 2010
#50
  • Jun 19, 2010
  • #50
Can't you wire the fan directly just to be sure? I'd hate for ya to just buy stuff hoping it works.
 

MysteryMachine

Active Member
Jun 21, 2003
1,835
2
39
Parkesburg, PA
Jun 19, 2010
#51
  • Jun 19, 2010
  • #51
nmcgrawj said:
Can't you wire the fan directly just to be sure? I'd hate for ya to just buy stuff hoping it works.
Click to expand...

That's what I was thinking. Can't you jump it just to make sure before you buy anything
 

95riosnake

Member
Dec 21, 2003
630
0
17
Pittsburgh, PA
Jun 19, 2010
#52
  • Jun 19, 2010
  • #52
Yea I'm going to hook the fan motor up directly to the battery first to verify that it isn't the problem. Hopefully it's the ccrm because I found refurbished ones for $55 shipped, whereas the fan assembly is $120, and when I replaced just the motor it was a PITA
 

Killercanary

The car that set the bar.
Founding Member
Nov 29, 1999
5,676
1
76
Altoona, PA
Jun 19, 2010
#53
  • Jun 19, 2010
  • #53
Every time my fan has stopped it was due to a faulty ECT sensor. Get the napa metal one if yours needs replaced. The plastic ones suck.
 

95riosnake

Member
Dec 21, 2003
630
0
17
Pittsburgh, PA
Jun 20, 2010
#54
  • Jun 20, 2010
  • #54
Paul do you mean the engine coolant temperature sensor that threads into the lower intake at the front driver's side corner? I don't even have that connected because I'm running an autometer water temp gauge. It doesn't seem like that sensor would trigger the fan to kick on?
 

95riosnake

Member
Dec 21, 2003
630
0
17
Pittsburgh, PA
Jun 20, 2010
#55
  • Jun 20, 2010
  • #55
Since the mobile version of stangnet is useless, I can't edit posts... Anyway, I was going to say I thought that sensor only served to get the reading for the factory temp gauge.
 

ProKiller

Founding Member
Apr 26, 2002
3,064
15
78
PA
Jun 20, 2010
#56
  • Jun 20, 2010
  • #56
i thought the ECT told the CCRM to turn the fan on. Worth a shot dan. unhook the autometer and try it.
 

nmcgrawj

Advanced Member
Sep 28, 2003
3,651
4
68
Indianapolis, IN
Jun 20, 2010
#57
  • Jun 20, 2010
  • #57
The single post sender in the intake is just for the gauge. The ect I thought was in the metal heater/coolant bypass/return line on the passenger side.
 

95riosnake

Member
Dec 21, 2003
630
0
17
Pittsburgh, PA
Jun 20, 2010
#58
  • Jun 20, 2010
  • #58
Ok that makes more sense, I'll check into that. There's a chance that sensor could have been damaged during the 347 install. I think once I get the fan to work, the car should run around 190 or a bit less which I'll be happy with. If I can avoid having to go to an aluminum rad I will.
 

Killercanary

The car that set the bar.
Founding Member
Nov 29, 1999
5,676
1
76
Altoona, PA
Jun 21, 2010
#59
  • Jun 21, 2010
  • #59
Nate is right. The ECT sensor is the one in the hard coolant line on the passenger side front of the engine. I don't know how to test it but I've personally had to do it three times and my cousin had to do it as well on his old '94GT.
 

95riosnake

Member
Dec 21, 2003
630
0
17
Pittsburgh, PA
Jun 21, 2010
#60
  • Jun 21, 2010
  • #60
Sorry to turn this thread into tech, lol...that's probably a rare occurrence for a talk thread to turn into tech... haha

Anyway, I'm going to pick up the sensor on the way home tonight and see if it does the trick. I'm not sure which one it is though.

Coolant Temperature Sensor by BWD - Part WT5058Z - Advance Auto Parts

Coolant Temperature Sensor by BWD - Part WT386Z - Advance Auto Parts

I'm pretty sure it's the first one, but I don't wanna waste the trip.

Oh and Paul you need to clear your PM's on here and SCS...I tried to pm you this post on both sites, so this was my last choice haha.
 
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