Foxbody 5.4 4V Build Thread

Firstly, if you bury that fuse box so far under the dash that you can’t easily see, and get to the fuses afterwards, you’re gonna hate yourself for doing that. Next, (and coming from somebody who is thoroughly familiar with a non-traditional engine swap) if those pics are all you have done so far,..and if you have every single thing to do this swap laying there, and if you can spend 40 hour weeks on the project........

You may get this done in a month.

But considering that you haven’t even mocked the big assed engine fitment up, and knowing that standard power brakes won’t fit, nor will the exhaust clear....and you haven’t even said how you intend to control the engine....

That said, as many times as that engine will be in/out of the bay in trial fitments, I’d leave the engine bay paint till after you do what you have to do to make sure everything is gonna work.

Im thinking April is a little ambitious.

I've done lots of engine swaps too. Tons of them.

Every. single. time, you put a plan on paper then buy parts. You KNOW what parts you need. But it never fails, something's not going to work like it's supposed to. The bad part about buying all the parts ahead of time is that typically you only get a small window to send them back if there's an issue; and if it takes 3 months to get the transmission stuff figured out and they sent you a converter for a TF727 instead of a 4R70W, you're stuck with a converter that a Mopar junkie MIGHT have a use for; you take a loss on it and then buy the one you think you need. BTDT. That's why the engine in my car is a 427 and not a 408. They sent me the wrong crankshaft but I didn't realize that it was MISPACKAGED for over a year; and of course by then I already had the rods and pistons for 408, and guess what? It don't work that way. Sold the rods and pistons then changed to the 427 specific stuff; cheaper that way, then selling the crank & buying a new one. 427 stuff isn't as common so it's harder to peddle it on the markets, but the rods and pistons for 408 are in more demand; easier to sell and got almost as much as I paid. Lucky. It was only a $60 difference including shipping costs. That engine is accidentially a 427"w and accidentally makes a little more than 600hp. I'd have been happy with 450.

It is far better off to put a budget on paper, stick to it, and buy the parts when you're close to needing them.

But...yeah I was going to do a 5.4 4v in my car too. Put a budget down, started figuring the costs involved, and decided that it wasn't for me. The camshafts alone were going to be about $1400; not counting 32 springs, 64 keepers, 32 keepers, 32 valves, porting, gaskets, pistons/rings/bearings, machine work, etc etc. Then, it might have made 450hp. I'd have been happy with that but a 351w based stroker is much less expensive to make the same (or in my case more) power. That's why I sold the 4v engine I had along with all of the other 4v stuff that I had amassed. I'd still like to do one in my '85 Coupe though; it is a dedicated bracket racing car, I am thinking a decent 5.4 4v with sullivan intake running methanol for fuel, N/A. My dad says I'm crazy. He's right.

QSACfoxbody said:

The fuse panel going on the trans tunnel is the engine wiring panel which won’t need to be accessed at all and if it is, it’s only connected by a magnet which means if can be easily removed. It will be controlled by the stock computer and a tune will remove the PATS and emissions.

The fuse box for accessories is actually mounted on the passenger side kick panel (also attached to the body by magnet). Shown here


I have all the parts here at my house. These updates are usually 2-3 weeks behind so as of now I have dropped the old front suspension, installed the hydroboost, and test fitted the new k-member.

I know how big this engine, I have the spacers on the K-Member needed and any other fitment issues will be addressed later. 4 inch cowl hood and the 1/2 inch spacers from MM should suffice to fit the engine from the guys that I’ve talked to who had the same engine swap.

of course it’s ambitious that’s how I force myself to get the work done.

Thanks for trying to look like an almighty god at engine swaps but I’ve done the research and bought the parts I needed.

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

I’m sorry.

It’s just that every other member here is taking pictures of the new freaking muffler or motor mount they bought, they day they bought it. Your updates are 2-3 weeks behind the progress, and you show the way it was before?
And here you are, with a whole speed parts warehouse worth of stuff piled up somewhere, and the only pic you post is of a couple of fuse panels that are held on with adhesive magnetic tape, carpeting that’s “ installed” ( you’d think you might’ve waited to do that without having the SF connectors welded in first, but since you didn’t tell us that that’s already done,.all we can do is assume it isn’t) An engine compartment that you’ve been sanding on, but couldn’t even get around to removing the old k member, exhaust manifolds, wiper motor, firewall grommets, hood hinges, or the brake lines that aren’t even attached to anything. You’d think that it’d be sooo much easier sanding, and you’d get a way better end result if that sht was out of the way. Anndd...since you have a new K member that will replace the stock one, I woulda thought it’d be way easier to remove the old one, and actually be able to STAND on the floor inside the bay while you sand and eventually paint that engine compartment.

I’m just sayin......

At least that’s how all the Gods of engine swaps that I know would do it.

This build sounds familiar. Sounds similar to a guys build who I sold an MM k member setup a couple months ago lol

Can you post a pic of where you finally installed the wiring harness? The one that is attached to the ECU. I am in the same process looking for ideas.

Did you ever get this running?