Lawless90

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Finished product!
 

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a91what

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2* per psi is super conservative.

Run 93 octane pull .5* per psi.

I don't pull anything below 5psi.

Max timing 28* with an a9l that's a base timing of 10*...

What's your tuning medium? (Sorry if I don't remember)
 

Lawless90

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May 15, 2017
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2* per psi is super conservative.

Run 93 octane pull .5* per psi.

I don't pull anything below 5psi.

Max timing 28* with an a9l that's a base timing of 10*...

What's your tuning medium? (Sorry if I don't remember)


Alright I'll keep that in mind, thanks.
But I'm running the pro-m efi system.

So for 6psi just pull 3* of Max advance and call it a day?
 

a91what

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Mod Dude
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Alright I'll keep that in mind, thanks.
But I'm running the pro-m efi system.

So for 6psi just pull 3* of Max advance and call it a day?
Yes and no. If you are new to tuning 1* per psi is where you start. Then you verify MBT on the dyno it usually comes out to .5*per psi roughly.
Get AFR in boost between 11.8 and 12.1 this Is the sweet zone.

If it has an option to pull timing with manifold temperature I suggest you do so. When intake temps get above 130* detonation becomes more likely.
 

Lawless90

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Yes and no. If you are new to tuning 1* per psi is where you start. Then you verify MBT on the dyno it usually comes out to .5*per psi roughly.
Get AFR in boost between 11.8 and 12.1 this Is the sweet zone.

If it has an option to pull timing with manifold temperature I suggest you do so. When intake temps get above 130* detonation becomes more likely.



Alright awesome, yeah im pretty new ti tuning, but pro-m is a pretty simple system. I'm writing the tune now, so we shall see.
Just to make sure, I'm looking for 14.7 at idle, cruise, part throttle?
 

Lawless90

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Awesome, thanks for the advice!

I've got it idling at 14.7-14.8.
I'm gonna let it cool off, top fluids off as needed and do some street tuning!

Any tips for street tuning?
I won't be logging, but ill be tuning live as she runs.
 

Lawless90

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I don't know how to log with this software.
Tuning on the fly with this system is easy, adding fuel and taking away is just a click
This isn't going to be the final tune, I'm gonna tune the drive ability, then get it dyno tuned for power so I have a good mix of street manners and racecar
 

a91what

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Hard to judge without a datalog to tell me where your voltage curve is each rpm/throttle position.

But it looks good 22* in boost is safe 16-20 at idle is good. Cruise timing can be advanced, I run up to 40* in some conditions
 

Lawless90

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I wish I had a good way to data log.
So far it idles well, and I can light throttle my way through the gears without crazy afrs. I'm gonna call my tuner Wednesday to get some dyno time booked
 

Lawless90

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Hey guys I know this is kinda random, but it's something that bugged me lastnight into this morning...
I used the distributor, cap, wire that werected on the used that i just swapped in, I noticed tuning it seemed harder than last time, couldn't get stable afrs unless I was idling..

So I double checked the firing order and it was set at 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8, but I remember checking the block and it's from the mid 90s, so instantly I chanced it to 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 but the the car wouldn't start. I set the engine at TDC and used my finger to feel the compression stroke when I dropped the engine in it and set base ignition timing so I know the rotor was firing #1 when it should be.
I switched to my old cap/wires
and also poped the passenger valve cover to ensure that it was indeed the firing order i though, and it was..

I'm just mind boggled on it, what type of internal fault could essentially change the firing order like that?
 

90sickfox

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands
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Your injector timing is also timed by the distributor. Its important to have the number 1 plug wire at the right spot on the cap and the rotor pointing at it. Also, using a positive stop is the best way to find TDC.

Put the stop in the spark plug hole... Rotate the motor by hand until it stops...mark the balancer...turn it the opposite direction until it stops....mark the balancer again. TDC is the midway point between the 2 marks.
 

Lawless90

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.........

.....

...

...

The cam sets the firing order.......

I know this, which is why I was curious if someone changed the cam out for an older one.
I verified the cam is the newer firing order by pulling plugs and checkingthe compression stroke.

But I've got 10* confirmed with a timing light.
 

Lawless90

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May 15, 2017
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Your injector timing is also timed by the distributor. Its important to have the number 1 plug wire at the right spot on the cap and the rotor pointing at it. Also, using a positive stop is the best way to find TDC.

Put the stop in the spark plug hole... Rotate the motor by hand until it stops...mark the balancer...turn it the opposite direction until it stops....mark the balancer again. TDC is the midway point between the 2 marks.


I've always pushed my finger in the #1 hole and waited for compression. Once I get compression I check my ti m ingredients marks on the balancer, then distributor.
 

90sickfox

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands
SN Certified Technician
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I've been known to stick a screw driver in the spark plug hole...and feel for the piston coming up to its highest point on the compression stroke. I've also stuck paper over the spark plug hole, when it blows out that's the stroke. The positive stop is the most accurate for me.

My fingers aren't small enough to fit in the spark plug hole to feel the piston. :shrug:
 
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Lawless90

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My fingers aren't small enough to fit in the spark plug hole to feel the piston. :shrug:[/QUOTE]


Hahaha mine aren't either, I just cover the hole and wait for pressure to seep around my finger