I tested my TPS sensor while the vehicle was running. At idle I was at .98v, I had a friend rev up the car slowly all the way to 5k rpm and the most I saw out of the tps sensor was 1.19v
Even with the way I tested it though, it’s bad correct?That TPS sensor is faulty. Replace it.
You shouldn’t test it with the car running, just turn the ignition ON without actually starting the car and then test it.
You don’t need help, you can manipulate the throttle yourself from under the hood while testing.
Just swapped it, however I can’t even keep it at an idle before it dies. That didn’t start happening until I did the timing so maybe I need to go ahead and do it the proper way. For the short period of time I did have it running with the maf plugged in I still couldn’t rev it throughout its rpm range. Same issue.Even with the way I tested it though, it’s bad correct?
I'll be doing that next time I get a chance. Hopefully tonight.Car does not have to be running to check the sweep on the TPS. Go to post #2:
Tps Voltage Question
Hi all, just picked up a 86 LX, and think I've run into a idling issue. The motor is a 306 EFI, GT40 Crate motor 42lb injectors Bama 4 Bank Chip 70MM TB 76MM Turbo/w 10lbs boost B303 Cam GT40X Heads The car has a hard time idling for the first 30 seconds or so. I've got play with the gas pedal...stangnet.com
Just tested it. .95v throttle closed, gradual sweep all the way to 4.6v. Guess that’s checked off..Anything between 0.5 and 1.25V is acceptable at idle. You don't need to target a specific number (0.99 for example). Just turn the key to on. Do you have around 1V? then you are good. Depress the pedal. Does it go to more than 3.5-4V? Then it's range of sweep checks out.
A running car might have a slightly higher voltage. Might be 0.85v with engine off, and 0.86 with it running. Both are acceptable
The porting is free through the school. It would be full in-depth with the CNC machine aswell as flow tested. We’re in that class right now so since I applies to the school I can get it done for free. I’ll definitely get the timing done and such because I’d like to drive it here to get it done.I would get it timed correctly and see if your issue is fixed now. (The TPS might have solved most of your issue)
That way when you do upgrade parts in the future, you won’t have an underlying issue that could be further complicated with additional issues arising from swapping out more parts. Which makes troubleshooting harder.
Porting a set of GT40’s … well are you talking about gasket matching or the more in depth porting of runners and bowls?
It’s almost not worth the effort/ money to begin with, but the more in depth porting requires alot of experience & knowledge. Without it you could end up with a worse off flowing head than it was stock.
I say get it running and drive it some, you might not see the need for porting afterwards to get that handful of extra power.
Just checked it out, realized it’s not something I need lol. I’m just gonna stick an old sensor with the same threads in there to plug it. What about the other differences?Pull the heads now if you have any kind of doubt as doing this again would surely suck. We were just discussing the rear coolant passage being tapped on some uppers and not on others here:
Engine - 66 heater box hoses to 5.0 heater hard tubes
I'm working with my son on the 66 with a 1993 5.0 swap. The heater box was toast so we replaced that in the fall. The fan motor bench tested A-OK on it's own and mounted in the heater box before installing in the car. However, now the squirrel cage is rubbing loudly in the housing. I...stangnet.com
I’ve definitely been looking at those studs. Including the head studs, valve cover studs, essentially everything. However, I’m a college student making $11 an hour lol. I’ll try to pick some up. What about the port differences right where the injector sprays? What’s up with that? Factory differences, or was something like that done aftermarket?To me the old intake has some pretty rough surfaces where the gasket mates up that I would probably use a thin layer of gasket maker to help seal up.
Another thing you can do is get lower intake studs in lieu of bolts.
ARP also has them but about 2.5 times more dinero:
I run them on the 331 in the Coupe and 351 in the T-Bird. They help line the intake up when you install it and have less issues (read none) with them becoming loose over time.
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