Engine Foxbody Mustang A/C Compressor Reseal - Nippon-Denso 6P148A

Scrolled back in your pictures and it appears it is the same kit for the gaskets but not the shaft seal.

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Well, it's been a long week: got a transmission installed, fixed an IAC leak and did finally get around to rebuilding the compressor, all for different vehicles too lol. These are the part numbers of kits I used along with a spare shaft seal on the right side. If anything, I liked the design of the factory installed body gaskets which seem like a teflon coated metal instead of the new all fiber ones, but went together just fine. Will be a little while before I actually test the compressor under pressure for leaks, but it's ready for that now.

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Gave up on trying to get the key out...... found the ford tool on Ebay for $20..... It still amazes me how the right tool makes the job so much easier...Pretty sure this will go in the NEVER used again tool drawer..... LOL
 
Gave up on trying to get the key out...... found the ford tool on Ebay for $20..... It still amazes me how the right tool makes the job so much easier...Pretty sure this will go in the NEVER used again tool drawer..... LOL
I'd love to see the Ford tool and exactly how it works. Got pics to share? I can't find anything even on Youtube showing how it works.
 
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I'd love to see the Ford tool and exactly how it works. Got pics to share? I can't find anything even on Youtube showing how it works.



The collar has a slot for the key. You slide it down over the key and twist it a bit so the key rests on a lip. You then thread in the center piece to push the shaft down. The collar then pulls the key up and out. It's pretty simple actually.
 
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Sorry for the dumb questions. I need to get the key out today or tomorrow and I'm trying to figure out how I'm going to do it. I got a NOS Ford A/C clutch in today and need to finish the fix this afternoon or tomorrow. Thanks for the help. And you can delete these questions afterward if you need to so I don't junk up your thread...lol.
 
I had thought I bottomed out my key while "gently" tapping a small screwdriver behind it to pry it out... So I understand your question..
This ford tool worked exactly like 5L5 said, it is round with a slot to fit over the key while inserting it... Twist it so the lip catches the key, then twist the " screw" down and it pulls right out..... I don't think you will have any problem with the "key" being bottomed out...
On a side note, I took the tool after receiving it, and was just going to fool with it on the compressor.... Slid down so nicely, twisted it and started twisting the screw in and it came right out...... Like I said, love it when a specialty tool works so well.......
 
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Here are two pics.... One shows he bottom of the tool with the slot.. The other shows the t handle used for running the screw down to remove the key
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Of all the compressor tools, the key removal tool is really the only one absolutely needed

I have em all
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The shaft seal driver might be a good tool to also use, but you can prob find a substitute
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What do you clean up the wick with? I do not want to damage it as I am assuming it is unobtainable ... Mine is pretty dirty and was thinking about some brake cleaner then letting it dry.....
 
Still don't see how it pulls the key out. Nothing above has addressed how it gets behind the key to "pull" it or how it does it without being behind it.
 
Still don't see how it pulls the key out. Nothing above has addressed how it gets behind the key to "pull" it or how it does it without being behind it.
There should be a small gap behind the key inside the recess of the compressor. Slide the tool down with the slot over the key, and then you twist the tool 90-180 degrees or so so the slot is no longer aligned. Only works if there is a gap but you don’t need much.

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Behind the key there, there is a gap.
 
There should be a small gap behind the key inside the recess of the compressor. Slide the tool down with the slot over the key, and then you twist the tool 90-180 degrees or so so the slot is no longer aligned. Only works if there is a gap but you don’t need much.

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Behind the key there, there is a gap.
Ok. Well that makes sense on the gap. Thanks Mike.
 
Been Trying to get my hands on another cheap compressor to rebuild. If I can, I can add more detailed pics of using the various tools and such.

Amazingly folks still want $200+ for a used compressor that’s been sitting open to the elements for 20 years. All those really need to be rebuilt before using.

I capped my compressor when I took it from the donor car (which had a 134a conversion where the owner just added a can every now and then). I capped the ports the best I could, but you can see in post 10 there was brown “goop” in there that needed to be cleaned out
 
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Get em while you can. I kept my oil coil, but my clutch was the same deal. Got some of the last stock of the OEM components.

Make sure you save the spacer and check your gap. Mine was spot on, but IIRC there is a kit that comes with additional spacers that's universal. I think i linked it in the Clutch post in this thread (post #2)


EDIT: My original shim worked fine, but here are additional ones

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