Freebie FTW

BurningRubber

10 Year Member
Dec 6, 2004
1,865
24
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My friend is doing a complete suspension overhaul on his disgustingly sick Bullitt. I don't think he's leaving 1 suspension part untouched.

He removed his factory subframe connectors for new MM full length. He asked me if I wanted them, and said I either take them or they're becoming a hat rack.

After debating on if free SFC's would be worth it (note my sarcasm, lol) I told him I'd be more than happy to take them off his hands.

I got them today. Going to clean them up before putting them in (hopefully this weekend). They aren't full length, and they are bolt in, but it's a start and will be better than no subframes at all.

I also have a line on a set of longtubes, never used for cheap. I may bite the bullet on them, but it seems like I should be replacing other stuff first...:shrug:
 
I remember you saying your clutch was slipping when you tested the nitrous.....make sure you change that out before you put the longtube because if you put in the longtubes, than chang your clutch down the road, its just going to be an annoying amount of work.
 
I remember you saying your clutch was slipping when you tested the nitrous.....make sure you change that out before you put the longtube because if you put in the longtubes, than chang your clutch down the road, its just going to be an annoying amount of work.

Agreed, but if you are anything like myself, then you tend to buy things that are a steal whether you need them or not at the time. I'm in the middle of my build, and I just bought Nitto 555R DR's because my buddy got in a bind and let em go cheap haha.

I say jump on the longtubes if you can get them at a good price, but wait to install til after the clutch is replaced. You don't need anything else in your way in that cramped tranny hump, I promise haha.:nono:
 
I remember you saying your clutch was slipping when you tested the nitrous.....make sure you change that out before you put the longtube because if you put in the longtubes, than chang your clutch down the road, its just going to be an annoying amount of work.

Yeah, that is actually what I was thinking about last night. That's another reason I haven't jumped on them. I just can't afford to do the headers, mid, and a clutch right now. On top of that, I need to replace the motor mounts and trans mount. Which would work cause I could just drop the K and do the mounts and headers, but again... money. haha

Agreed, but if you are anything like myself, then you tend to buy things that are a steal whether you need them or not at the time. I'm in the middle of my build, and I just bought Nitto 555R DR's because my buddy got in a bind and let em go cheap haha.

I say jump on the longtubes if you can get them at a good price, but wait to install til after the clutch is replaced. You don't need anything else in your way in that cramped tranny hump, I promise haha.:nono:

I can imagine it's going to be a PITA as it is. I MAY be able to get it on a lift at a buddy's shop, but that's not certain.

The headers are Pacesetter's, never used. They are a few years old and he's asking $200. They are $250 new so if I ever wanted to get a cheap set, it's only $50 more to do it down the road at a more convenient time.

If I didn't have the other stuff to replace I'd go for it.

I wonder if they CAN be welded on? :shrug:

They could. You could clean them up and grind the paint off where they need to be welded, but they aren't full lengths. I'll be glad to have them on as it is. If it's not "enough" then I'd go full length weld on connectors.
 
we pulled the tranny out of my buddy's 96 pi car, with pacesetters, it was tight but it worked!!

Really? That's good to hear. I'm passing on the headers now and going the maintenance/upgrade route.



Add one more to the freebie list; a set of Bullitt shocks/struts with approximately 50k on them. They are essentially re-valved Tokico Blue's...:)

I owe my buddy a round of drinks or something to repay him, but man this is awesome...:nice:
 
Really? That's good to hear. I'm passing on the headers now and going the maintenance/upgrade route.



Add one more to the freebie list; a set of Bullitt shocks/struts with approximately 50k on them. They are essentially re-valved Tokico Blue's...:)

I owe my buddy a round of drinks or something to repay him, but man this is awesome...:nice:

cant beat stuff like that man :nice:
 
I tend to agree. I'm stoked, can hardly wait to get it all on. I should be ordering some other goodies before too long as well that will hopefully tighten the car up a bit. Nothing dramatic, just replacing worn parts.

were kinda in the same boat, iirc your cars kinda gettin up there in miles, mines around 90k. im just starting to have to worry about replacing little things instead of modding. i just changed the plugs, coil packs, fuel filter and i just rebuilt the rear and replaced my 3.73's with 4.10's, but my car still runs incredibly strong. i pulled about 3 car lengths on my old fox last night, and it was a pretty stout car for the mods it has.
 
were kinda in the same boat, iirc your cars kinda gettin up there in miles, mines around 90k. im just starting to have to worry about replacing little things instead of modding. i just changed the plugs, coil packs, fuel filter and i just rebuilt the rear and replaced my 3.73's with 4.10's, but my car still runs incredibly strong. i pulled about 3 car lengths on my old fox last night, and it was a pretty stout car for the mods it has.

Yeah I just rolled over 145k the other day...:(

I bought it with 92k on it and drove it a ton right after that. Should have balanced the miles between it and my Jeep, but I just loved driving it so much. So I did.

I am also impressed with how mine is running with the mileage. At 92k it felt like a new car to me. It's showing a little age now but nothing unexpected and it's held together a hell of a lot better than I expected it to.

I started modding in the 90k range and didn't stop, lol. If it breaks, it breaks. At least I won't be too upset now with the mileage. For every day it runs and survives a hit of nitrous, autocross, pass at the strip, I'm impressed.
 
Nice,
Talk about freebies,I got a nice freebie last week.FRPP 4.10's...didnt cost me a single penny and thats from Ford....lol.Kinda of a long story but in short:
Had some bearings go bad when and really screwed up the rear end housing so Ford said it needed to be replaced..all of it.So my warranty company approved but only if they supplied the rear end.
Well they supplied a rebuilt rear end.I get my car back last week and notice everyone is passing me up on the highway and in town and my 1st gear seemed really very short.
So I take it back and had to argue with Ford over this and with help from Stangnet members they finally opened up the rear without charging me and sure enough they said it had FRPP 4.10's.

Actually Im going in today for them to calibrate the speedo.Not bad...:D:rlaugh::nice:
 
Hahaha, man that's a mistake that you don't get too upset about...:rlaugh:

NICE score. If you haven't gotten on the gas yet, prepare to grin from ear to ear the first time you do.
 
Oh Im grinning...:D

When I called Ford after I relized something wasnt right with the speedo and with help from Stangnet members and finally convincing ford that I was right,guess what they said to me.....

Are you gonna want us to contact the warranty company to authorize payment for the correct gears? almost word for word....:rlaugh: my reply,

"are you @#$%$% crazy,just fix the speedo".
Service advisor didnt understand why I didnt care....he's not very car savvy.

You would think he would know quite alot seeing how its his job,cant say too much more for the tech's either.
At first the tech told me that gears would NOT alter the speedo.I said hows that.

He told me that he hooked up the computer and drove it on the highway and that although the speedo was off it was not related to gears,cause while the car was moving all 4 speed sensors said that the front and rear tires were going the same speed.:nono: Are you serious..:rlaugh:I knew he was wrong but before I got to upset I came to the forums to make sure.

Heres the original thread:
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/814194-need-some-help-please.html
 
Hahaha, that is awesome.

You are on of the few to have had the dealer make a GOOD mistake, lol.

It is kind of scary though that they have that lack of knowledge. I'd want the person doing major work to my car to at least understand how it works...
 
Hahaha, that is awesome.

You are on of the few to have had the dealer make a GOOD mistake, lol.

It is kind of scary though that they have that lack of knowledge. I'd want the person doing major work to my car to at least understand how it works...

No kidding.

Well I usually dont use this Ford dealer.
Normally for something that I know I cant do myself I would take it to another near by Ford dealer that deals with FRPP parts...they had much better mechanics.
This Ford dealer is the first time I ve really dealt with them,not any more,the warranty is expired so Im back to doing myself.
 
No kidding.

Well I usually dont use this Ford dealer.
Normally for something that I know I cant do myself I would take it to another near by Ford dealer that deals with FRPP parts...they had much better mechanics.
This Ford dealer is the first time I ve really dealt with them,not any more,the warranty is expired so Im back to doing myself.

Hah man that sounds familiar.

We have two Ford dealers within a stones throw of eachother. Almost night and day between the two...:shrug:

DIY saves a lot of money. Even if you screw up you can usually fix it again and come out around the same, or less.




Got the subframes on today. The difference is definitely there. I can imagine if bolt-in's feel like that, full length weld ins must be pretty damn nice.