Fuel upgrades, car won't run. Need help ASAP! :(

Ozz

I think I have a problem here.
Founding Member
Jul 27, 2001
3,514
66
109
Canton, MI
I've been over this before, some might recognize it, and it's back.

What I began with on my 92 5.0:
typhoon intake and vortech a-trim, MSD blaster TFI coil

What i added:
255lph fuel pump, 30# injectors, 75mm MAF matched to 30#s, 70mm throttle body, AFPR

A month or so ago we solved this, and it ended up being the stock fuel filter which I didn't change. It ran!

I took some time to put on new headers, H pipe and do a brake job, and when I went to start it up again it did not run. It would start and run for about 3 seconds, then will die. Pressing the throttle won't keep it running either. It will start up immediately after dying, too.

I put in a brand new fuel filter and it didn't help out, so I'm just stuck.

I took out a plug and it looks like this:

plug.jpg


It's real dark gray/black, and a friend told me that they should still work despite that.

So where should I look and what can I do?

Fuel pressure is set at 30 and it holds as the car runs.

Lots of people have suggested me to get a chip, and I have that in my plans. But the bad part is, I HAVE TO DRIVE THE CAR DOWN TO GET TUNED and the chip burned. What's worse is this is in under a week! I've gotta get this damn thing running.

What I also don't understand is that tons of people have put in new injectors & MAF and have been able to run their car, what is my problem? The injectors aren't leaking either. The entire setup was running just a month ago and now it's not.

Please help!
 
I will do it. I will f'n do anything right about now. Like I said, not even a week until i need this running :(

Could you just tell me what to do to clean it? :)
 
mansonozz said:
I will do it. I will f'n do anything right about now. Like I said, not even a week until i need this running :(

Could you just tell me what to do to clean it? :)

You can clean with carb or throttle body cleaner. Unplug it, remove the 2 8mm bolts and spray in the back side in the 2 holes. Let it dry and replace, but be sure that gasket didn't get messed up when removing it.
 
You said you just changed the fuel pump? I would take a look at that. Watch the pressure to see if it stays at the pressure you set while it runs the little it does. If you just changed the pump, and it is has drivability problems (like a fuel problem), I would definatly look at the pump first.

Let us know how it turns out.

CB
 
Is it just not idling? Do you have a bypass valve hooked up? Will it run without the blower hooked up? if you haven't tried that, it's worth a shot, mine wouldn't run with the blower hooked up, so I put the filter and MAF back on the TB and it ran like it should. once that blower goes on it gets all crazy and didn't want to idle, so I had to raise my idle just by turning in the idle screw. it runs now and doesn't stall anymore, but If it still does it after I get my bypass put in, then I will get one of those air bypass plates for my IAB, which i was told by 2 people who have them, work pretty well...
 
It starts, runs for 2-3 seconds, then dies. Every damn time.
I haven't tried it without the blower hooked up. But that really shouldn't make a difference since I was running it with the blower perfectly before any fuel upgrades were done. Now that I am getting more fuel, the damn thing won't run. It worked better with 19# injectors/maf and 88lph fuel pump!! :crazy:
 
The injectors only extend the limits of how much MAX fuel you get. At idle the injecotrs should put out just enough fuel for the amount of air thats coming into the engine, according to what the maf meter says. I hope your using a Pro-M. Eeven then, not every maf meter might work, theres always a defect, if you think thats the problem, then try a different one.
 
Update time:

1. I unhooked the MAF from the blower (still left it plugged in) and tried to run the car, no luck
2. I unplugged the MAF electronics and yanked it from the car, still no luck
3. I put the MAF back in, hooked it up, and bumped the fuel pressure down, up, etc. I've got it as close to 38psi WITH vacuum as I can get (damn thing won't idle long enough to set it perfectly).

I WAS able to keep it running by pushing the gas pedal TO THE FLOOR. And even then it was bucking badly and almost choking itself out. The exhaust would stop flowing and then it would kick back in, and repeat itself after a few seconds. I was able to keep it going like that for quite a while but ONLY when I pushed the pedal way down to the floor. Any less and it died out.

So does that open any new ideas up? The MAF doesn't seem to be the problem now, right?
 
damn...are you sure the firing order is right? my friend made that mistake, he thought he blew a headgasket, but if your flooring it and it's not running even then, then something is wrong...have someone start it and let it run for a sec, then unplug the MAF, any change or still the same? Again, the same thing happened with my friends car. He wasn't getting a signal from the meter....
 
Have you re-checked all the upgrades you did?? Just to rule out anything you might have missed? Also what about the upper to lower intake, maybe be something maybe holding them apart alittle bit and getting a massive vacum leak. Re-check everthing and all connections just to be sure, might have forgot to plug something in. If everything is good,,,,Then check the TPS voltage. With the car off and key on see what he voltage is at WOT. It should be in the high 4's close to 5 volts. Also see what it is at what would be idle without pressing the gas pedal. Did you unhook the ground on the injector harness that goes to the back of the head when replacing the injectors?? If so check that to make sure it is connected...
 
Have you re-checked all the upgrades you did??

The fuel pump is ok, the exhaust is all good, TB is good. I will check that injector ground harness. Can you tell me which side of the head it connects to? So much crap down there that if I don't knowwhat I'm lookin for I will never find it :(

Then check the TPS voltage. With the car off and key on see what he voltage is at WOT. It should be in the high 4's close to 5 volts

My TPS is not correct, I know that. But last time the car ran, it was not set correctly either. I posted about that and also noted that the car idled PERFECTLY and revved up and came down perfectly as well. Everyone said to leave the TPS alone if that was the case, and consider myself lucky.

Even if the TPS was not set correctly, shouldn't it at least idle like crap?
 
The ground should be on the driver side head on the rear. It's a pain to get to with the upper intake on, but it will be part of the injector harness.

As for the TPS, I was just refering to it to make sure it has the correct voltage & not setting it.
 
Hey man, I read you wrong.
My TPS ground reading was 4.9. The other wire, (green is it? I can't remember anymore) was only .04 when it should be .97 or so. THIS is where people told me that as long as it idles fine then I should leave it alone. Do you agree with that?
 
The ground wire in the injector harness is for the O2 sensors. The injectors have constant +12 supplied to them by the ECC relay. The computer supplies the ground for each injector to make it turn on.

See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host)

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91eecPinout.gif
 
Set my TPS to .97 this morning. Still no luck.

My mechanic friend came over and we tried pulling codes, but the comptuer is not readable. :shrug: Any ideas now?