Getting Ready for the Vortech :D

Its the V1 A trim I belive.
I havent been on in a while, but just picked up a Mustang and JUST literally picked up a supercharger.
I just had a couple questions,
Has anyone succsessfully drilled and tapped their oil pan with leaving the motor in the car for the oil return line?
What Disc should I use in the Vortech FMU? 8:1 on 30LB Injectors?
Does the oil relocation kit provide the FEED or the RETURN for the oil?
What should my timing be set at after the SC?
Thanks guys.
I would honestly look, but i just got home from picking this thing up from like an hour away.
Any help will be appreciated :D
 
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I don't have a SC, but I'll do my best to answer your questions.

Has anyone succsessfully drilled and tapped their oil pan with leaving the motor in the car for the oil return line?
Vortech should supply a punch for the pan that comes with the kit, so no drilling required. You can leave the engine in place.

What Disc should I use in the Vortech FMU? 8:1 on 30LB Injectors?
Lose the FMU and do 42lb injectors + a tune. You'll be able to fine tune the combo for better drivability, and get a better handle on the A/F ratio.

Does the oil relocation kit provide the FEED or the RETURN for the oil?
I can't answer specifically, but I believe the oil relocation kit is for the oil pressure sending unit. It relocates it because that becomes the oil feed for the SC as well as the port for the sensor.

What should my timing be set at after the SC?
If you're planning on a tune, set it to the base 10° and let the tune determine the advance. In the meantime, I'd probably knock it back a couple of degrees to ward off any risk of detonation.
 
Does the oil relocation kit provide the FEED or the RETURN for the oil?

Don't know what you mean by this, You must be getting the Vortec used because they don't make a A-trim anymore, It was replaced with the SC-trim. But the vortec should not come with a oil relocation kit. The prevoius owner must have bought this seperate and is now giving it to you. Unless you are refering to the t-fiiting that they should suppy. So you can tie into the oil pressure unit.

What Disc should I use in the Vortech FMU? 8:1 on 30LB Injectors?

Not sure, that is the same advice I gave another stanger on a different thread. http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=717523
Will have to see what other people have ran with there combo. If not a 8:1 maybe a 10:1.

Has anyone succsessfully drilled and tapped their oil pan with leaving the motor in the car for the oil return line?

Taping the oil pan is not bad at all, just be sure to use plenty of grease on the tap to collect all the fillings, and to change your oil.

What should my timing be set at after the SC?

Depends on the boost, But the general rule is 2* for ever pound of boost. But I personaly always ran 14* with my SC-trim, with no problems. Just needed to run the high octane gas all the time. We can get 94 octane here in NE at the pump.

I havent been on in a while, but just picked up a Mustang

If that mustang doesn't have a high volume pump you will need one for sure. 255LPH
 
Yes you can punch and tap the oil pan with the engine in the car. Did it last winter. It is tight in there, but not too bad to do.

When I bought my stainless oil feed line last winter, the oil return line did not come with it.

As far as timing goes, I would really suggest getting it tuned.

I'm not running a FMU as I had mine tuned and it runs great. No need for it.
 
Its the V1 A trim I belive.
I havent been on in a while, but just picked up a Mustang and JUST literally picked up a supercharger.
I just had a couple questions,
Has anyone succsessfully drilled and tapped their oil pan with leaving the motor in the car for the oil return line?
What Disc should I use in the Vortech FMU? 8:1 on 30LB Injectors?
Does the oil relocation kit provide the FEED or the RETURN for the oil?
What should my timing be set at after the SC?
Thanks guys.
I would honestly look, but i just got home from picking this thing up from like an hour away.
Any help will be appreciated :D

i wouldnt drill it, drilling the hole will leave you nothing for the fitting to hold on to. punching it will roll the lip in and give some metal for some threads.

IDEALLY it better to have a fitting welded on the pan. but since vortech is making bolt on its, its kinda of stupid to have the customer pull the engine for something so small.

i was worried about punching the pan at first but its very easy and works suprisingly well.

as for the oil feed, you will remove your stock oil pressure sending unit and there are 3 parts that go back in, first is a little 3 inch pipe that goes into the block. then a small t- fitting and then a little 45*elbow for your stock sensor to go back in

and i would reccomend ditching the FMU for the reasons stated in previous posts.

i put my SC on and the FMU makes the car run PIG RICH at wot. i had to take alot of FP out of it to get it running faster.

as for timing start at 10 and work up a bit. my car likes 15, but once i start tuning i will set it back at 10 and do all the advancing through the EEC
 
the plug on the front sump faces downward and its at the bottom. trying to drain the SC through that hole will cause oil to back up and fill up the supercharger

the drain has to be above the oil level
 
use a 3/8 NPT.

the brass fitting for the drain is 3/8 pipe

and personally i would glob some JBweld on the fitting before you put it in and make sure it stays in there.

i put some jb weld on mine. to help it seal and make sure it never comes out.