GOAL: 12.999 on stock motor 5.0 and AOD. Possible?

Most drag race cars do not have sway bars (only need for side to side or cornering). Might as well remove at least the rear. It will launch better plus you will save 25lbs out back. It's four 15MM bolts and about 2 minutes of time.

I've heard about the front, and that is done, but the back too? Usually when they delete the swaybar thats because there is an anti-roll bar installed. Rear needs to stay level, right?

I don't know why traction is such an issue for you guys? When my old 2.73 geared '87 Mustang GT was stock, I could barely spin the tires or clean, dry pavement as it was? Adding a set of drag radials to the mix really wouldn't have made a lick of difference IMO? :shrug:

That sucks to hear you had a dud. :D No really, when I got this car, it was a dog, and it would barely spin tires, but must has changed.
 
Most drag race cars do not have sway bars (only need for side to side or cornering). Might as well remove at least the rear. It will launch better plus you will save 25lbs out back. It's four 15MM bolts and about 2 minutes of time.


Negative.

If you don't have a drag style anti roll bar, you should keep the factory rear sway bar. It helps keep the car level. Obviously, it's not as effective as a true racing style anti-roll bar, but removing the factory rear sway bar will increase the body roll.
 
Negative.

If you don't have a drag style anti roll bar, you should keep the factory rear sway bar. It helps keep the car level. Obviously, it's not as effective as a true racing style anti-roll bar, but removing the factory rear sway bar will increase the body roll.

Body roll going straight?

Here's a good article about sway bars.
Mustang Anti-sway Bars

Also, here is TeamZ's lower control arms (see pic below). You will notice this drag racing application does not have the rear sway bar bungs. It's not needed in a drag race application. They offer Anti-Roll bar for side to side movement in place of the rear sway bar. There is no body roll unless your taking on / off ramps on the way to the track.

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No rear sway bar.

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I don't know why traction is such an issue for you guys? When my old 2.73 geared '87 Mustang GT was stock, I could barely spin the tires on clean, dry pavement as it was? Adding a set of drag radials to the mix really wouldn't have made a lick of difference IMO? :shrug:

Agreed.
We used to have an auto lx , and pretty much no matter what it was a slug.

Good 60ft times aren't only about traction, it also requires power.
So if you can't launch in the power band, all the traction in the world isn't going to help.
 
Team Z and almost any other drag race suspension are designed to work with anti-roll bars, which are just extreme versions of the anti-sway bar as they mount differently and do not flex. Yes I am sure weight would transfer even better with no rear swaybar, but it would all go to the right rear. I apreciate the ideas, so don't get me wrong. I am pretty sure I have more than I need now when it comes to traction.

Today is the day I am supose to go to the track. Too bad the only track even relatively close is an 1/8th. I would love to go down the 1/4, and I will, but it's so damned far away.
 
Body roll going straight? ...
There is no body roll unless your taking on / off ramps on the way to the track.

Incorrect. Solid axle cars tend to plant the left rear tire and lift the right rear tire (a reaction to the driveshaft's torque on the axle housing) on the launch. The body's "equal and opposite reaction" is for the left front corner of the car to raise and the right rear corner to dip (commonly referred to as "body roll"). Like this:

torque-no-your-honda-cant-do-this.jpg


If you don't have a racing style anti roll bar and you remove the factory rear sway bar, that is what you get on a hard launch. It's not uncommon to see a car launch and ONLY the left front tire comes off the ground. That's body roll on the launch and it is detrimental to your sixty foot time. That's why if people don't run an anti roll bar, they should run the factory sway bar.


Also, here is TeamZ's lower control arms (see pic below). You will notice this drag racing application does not have the rear sway bar bungs. It's not needed in a drag race application.

Incorrect. The control arms without sway bar mounts are intended to be used with an anti roll bar that is mounted to the rear axle like this (my car):

m5lp_1004_08_+sheetmetal_rearend_housing+rearend_suspension.jpg


If you're not using a racing style anti roll bar like this:
2000-01.gif


Then you should use the control arms with sway bar mounts like this:
2002-10.jpg


Otherwise the car will body roll on the launch like the pic I posted, usually resulting in less traction on the right rear tire.

They offer Anti-Roll bar for side to side movement in place of the rear sway bar.

Incorrect. The anti roll bar does not control side to side movement. It is used to work against (anti) the body roll. High-end drag cars use wishbones like this to control the side to side motion:

2013-mustang-wishbone-rear-end-locator.gif



Hope this info helps someone (anyone?) although some of this is overkill for a 12 second car.
 
You guys are right....

Nice writeup Sharad.

Well, I go to the track, ET Streets mounted, thinking I was going to get some good runs. The air was cooler, car seems faster. Get to the track and actually get to use the burnout box and get my tires wet. Do a burnout and wow these things are sticky. Went to the line, on the second stage light stalled the stock converter as high as it would let me (or low I should say) and when the light turned I let off the brake. Seemed strong.... felt good.... 8.8 at 83mph, 2.0 60ft. Almost a 2.1. The best run was a 8.7. :notnice:

I have found the wall with this AOD. Before on street tires, although spinning it was probably allowing the car to "stall up" a little. Now it is just kind of bogged down. I did the 1-D-1 shuffle twice.... tranny is telling me not to do that anymore. I can tell it doesn't like it.

Time to take the TKO off the shelf and get it in. Thanks everyone for your input. The stock AOD sucks major monkey balls. I think I got a lot out of a stock engine/AOD Mustang. Most are complete dogs, mine actually runs pretty strong. However, this chapter needs to close.
 
Sometime "flashing" the converter (jabbing the throttle right off idle) yields better results than loading it up off the line. I've always found that stock or near stock (within 1,000RPM) stall converters didn't perform any better when you foot braked them off the line. A dead punch off idle always yield me my best 60ft times.

....sucked for bracket racing though. :D
 
Nice step by step breakdown. :nice:

Thanks. :nice: Drag racing & suspension setups are some of my favorite topics.


Nice writeup Sharad.

Well, I go to the track, ET Streets mounted, thinking I was going to get some good runs. The air was cooler, car seems faster. Get to the track and actually get to use the burnout box and get my tires wet. Do a burnout and wow these things are sticky. Went to the line, on the second stage light stalled the stock converter as high as it would let me (or low I should say) and when the light turned I let off the brake. Seemed strong.... felt good.... 8.8 at 83mph, 2.0 60ft. Almost a 2.1. The best run was a 8.7. :notnice:

I have found the wall with this AOD. Before on street tires, although spinning it was probably allowing the car to "stall up" a little. Now it is just kind of bogged down. I did the 1-D-1 shuffle twice.... tranny is telling me not to do that anymore. I can tell it doesn't like it.

Time to take the TKO off the shelf and get it in. Thanks everyone for your input. The stock AOD sucks major monkey balls. I think I got a lot out of a stock engine/AOD Mustang. Most are complete dogs, mine actually runs pretty strong. However, this chapter needs to close.

Thanks man. I'm sorry to hear that you didn't hit your goal with the AOD, but I'm sure the TKO will be a day and night difference. Can't wait to hear how it runs! Let me know if there's anything I can do to help.
 
Thanks. :nice: Drag racing & suspension setups are some of my favorite topics.

Welcome, one of mine too. So often overlooked. Suspension is as important in drag racing as it is in autocross, circle track, ect. I kind of get a laugh out of people saying their car can't hook because it has too much power... yeah, that's like saying my car can't corner because it's too fast. :rlaugh:

Thanks man. I'm sorry to hear that you didn't hit your goal with the AOD, but I'm sure the TKO will be a day and night difference. Can't wait to hear how it runs! Let me know if there's anything I can do to help.

Well I tried.... getting the most out of your combo before improving it I think is important. Yeah me too can't wait to get the TKO in there.
 
Thanks. :nice: Drag racing & suspension setups are some of my favorite topics.




Thanks man. I'm sorry to hear that you didn't hit your goal with the AOD, but I'm sure the TKO will be a day and night difference. Can't wait to hear how it runs! Let me know if there's anything I can do to help.

His stock AOD / Motor will never ever launch like that. In a stock application it has known to help with launch and weight savings. Also with his AOD probably even better since there is no aid to human error. Someone should test it on an application like this just to see it there is a noticeable difference. Couple of runs with the bar connected, a couple without and take an average time.
 
great write up Sharad! know whos fun to talk with about suspensions with... clueless import owners who know nothing about how to put huge power to the ground. its not as easy as we all make it look. there is so little of a window from smacking the rear bumper and blowing the tires off. the suspension has to be dead nuts on along with the tune up....
 
Welcome, one of mine too. So often overlooked. Suspension is as important in drag racing as it is in autocross, circle track, ect. I kind of get a laugh out of people saying their car can't hook because it has too much power... yeah, that's like saying my car can't corner because it's too fast. :rlaugh:

Agreed, suspension is critical! And that comment was funny! ^^ :D


Well I tried.... getting the most out of your combo before improving it I think is important. Yeah me too can't wait to get the TKO in there.

Yep, it's the best way to isolate the gains of each individual part. So what are your clutch plans with the TKO? I've had good luck with Centerforce.


great write up Sharad! know whos fun to talk with about suspensions with... clueless import owners who know nothing about how to put huge power to the ground. its not as easy as we all make it look. there is so little of a window from smacking the rear bumper and blowing the tires off. the suspension has to be dead nuts on along with the tune up....


Thanks dude. You're right. And you guys are definitely makin' magic happen on the little tire!