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GOAL: 12.999 on stock motor 5.0 and AOD. Possible?

  • Thread starter Thread starter 90mustangGT
  • Start date Start date Aug 6, 2011
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90mustangGT

I felt sorry for girls because
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Aug 25, 2011
#41
  • Aug 25, 2011
  • #41
VibrantRedGT said:
Most drag race cars do not have sway bars (only need for side to side or cornering). Might as well remove at least the rear. It will launch better plus you will save 25lbs out back. It's four 15MM bolts and about 2 minutes of time.
Click to expand...

I've heard about the front, and that is done, but the back too? Usually when they delete the swaybar thats because there is an anti-roll bar installed. Rear needs to stay level, right?

Gearbanger 101 said:
I don't know why traction is such an issue for you guys? When my old 2.73 geared '87 Mustang GT was stock, I could barely spin the tires or clean, dry pavement as it was? Adding a set of drag radials to the mix really wouldn't have made a lick of difference IMO?
Click to expand...

That sucks to hear you had a dud. No really, when I got this car, it was a dog, and it would barely spin tires, but must has changed.
 

Sharad

ALWAYS choose the V over the P!!! Wait... what?
Jan 5, 2011
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Aug 25, 2011
#42
  • Aug 25, 2011
  • #42
VibrantRedGT said:
Most drag race cars do not have sway bars (only need for side to side or cornering). Might as well remove at least the rear. It will launch better plus you will save 25lbs out back. It's four 15MM bolts and about 2 minutes of time.
Click to expand...


Negative.

If you don't have a drag style anti roll bar, you should keep the factory rear sway bar. It helps keep the car level. Obviously, it's not as effective as a true racing style anti-roll bar, but removing the factory rear sway bar will increase the body roll.
 
P

PhillyVert

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#43
  • Aug 25, 2011
  • #43
Ill let you know tomorrow night about the 12.9's,LOL!!!.Im headed to atco raceway with my AOD lx.Ive just got a couple of bolt-ons and 4.10's.
 

VibrantRedGT

"STANGNET'S PENGUIN SMACKER"
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Aug 26, 2011
#44
  • Aug 26, 2011
  • #44
Sharad said:
Negative.

If you don't have a drag style anti roll bar, you should keep the factory rear sway bar. It helps keep the car level. Obviously, it's not as effective as a true racing style anti-roll bar, but removing the factory rear sway bar will increase the body roll.
Click to expand...

Body roll going straight?

Here's a good article about sway bars.
Mustang Anti-sway Bars

Also, here is TeamZ's lower control arms (see pic below). You will notice this drag racing application does not have the rear sway bar bungs. It's not needed in a drag race application. They offer Anti-Roll bar for side to side movement in place of the rear sway bar. There is no body roll unless your taking on / off ramps on the way to the track.



No rear sway bar.

 

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2000xp8

SN Certified Technician
Aug 8, 2003
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Aug 26, 2011
#45
  • Aug 26, 2011
  • #45
Gearbanger 101 said:
I don't know why traction is such an issue for you guys? When my old 2.73 geared '87 Mustang GT was stock, I could barely spin the tires on clean, dry pavement as it was? Adding a set of drag radials to the mix really wouldn't have made a lick of difference IMO?
Click to expand...

Agreed.
We used to have an auto lx , and pretty much no matter what it was a slug.

Good 60ft times aren't only about traction, it also requires power.
So if you can't launch in the power band, all the traction in the world isn't going to help.
 

90mustangGT

I felt sorry for girls because
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Aug 26, 2011
#46
  • Aug 26, 2011
  • #46
Team Z and almost any other drag race suspension are designed to work with anti-roll bars, which are just extreme versions of the anti-sway bar as they mount differently and do not flex. Yes I am sure weight would transfer even better with no rear swaybar, but it would all go to the right rear. I apreciate the ideas, so don't get me wrong. I am pretty sure I have more than I need now when it comes to traction.

Today is the day I am supose to go to the track. Too bad the only track even relatively close is an 1/8th. I would love to go down the 1/4, and I will, but it's so damned far away.
 

Sharad

ALWAYS choose the V over the P!!! Wait... what?
Jan 5, 2011
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Aug 26, 2011
#47
  • Aug 26, 2011
  • #47
VibrantRedGT said:
Body roll going straight? ...
There is no body roll unless your taking on / off ramps on the way to the track.
Click to expand...

Incorrect. Solid axle cars tend to plant the left rear tire and lift the right rear tire (a reaction to the driveshaft's torque on the axle housing) on the launch. The body's "equal and opposite reaction" is for the left front corner of the car to raise and the right rear corner to dip (commonly referred to as "body roll"). Like this:



If you don't have a racing style anti roll bar and you remove the factory rear sway bar, that is what you get on a hard launch. It's not uncommon to see a car launch and ONLY the left front tire comes off the ground. That's body roll on the launch and it is detrimental to your sixty foot time. That's why if people don't run an anti roll bar, they should run the factory sway bar.


VibrantRedGT said:
Also, here is TeamZ's lower control arms (see pic below). You will notice this drag racing application does not have the rear sway bar bungs. It's not needed in a drag race application.
Click to expand...

Incorrect. The control arms without sway bar mounts are intended to be used with an anti roll bar that is mounted to the rear axle like this (my car):



If you're not using a racing style anti roll bar like this:


Then you should use the control arms with sway bar mounts like this:


Otherwise the car will body roll on the launch like the pic I posted, usually resulting in less traction on the right rear tire.

VibrantRedGT said:
They offer Anti-Roll bar for side to side movement in place of the rear sway bar.
Click to expand...

Incorrect. The anti roll bar does not control side to side movement. It is used to work against (anti) the body roll. High-end drag cars use wishbones like this to control the side to side motion:




Hope this info helps someone (anyone?) although some of this is overkill for a 12 second car.
 

Gearbanger 101

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#48
  • Aug 26, 2011
  • #48
Nice step by step breakdown.
 

90mustangGT

I felt sorry for girls because
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#49
  • Aug 27, 2011
  • #49
You guys are right....

Nice writeup Sharad.

Well, I go to the track, ET Streets mounted, thinking I was going to get some good runs. The air was cooler, car seems faster. Get to the track and actually get to use the burnout box and get my tires wet. Do a burnout and wow these things are sticky. Went to the line, on the second stage light stalled the stock converter as high as it would let me (or low I should say) and when the light turned I let off the brake. Seemed strong.... felt good.... 8.8 at 83mph, 2.0 60ft. Almost a 2.1. The best run was a 8.7.

I have found the wall with this AOD. Before on street tires, although spinning it was probably allowing the car to "stall up" a little. Now it is just kind of bogged down. I did the 1-D-1 shuffle twice.... tranny is telling me not to do that anymore. I can tell it doesn't like it.

Time to take the TKO off the shelf and get it in. Thanks everyone for your input. The stock AOD sucks major monkey balls. I think I got a lot out of a stock engine/AOD Mustang. Most are complete dogs, mine actually runs pretty strong. However, this chapter needs to close.
 

Gearbanger 101

Straight Outta Locash
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#50
  • Aug 27, 2011
  • #50
Sometime "flashing" the converter (jabbing the throttle right off idle) yields better results than loading it up off the line. I've always found that stock or near stock (within 1,000RPM) stall converters didn't perform any better when you foot braked them off the line. A dead punch off idle always yield me my best 60ft times.

....sucked for bracket racing though.
 
P

PhillyVert

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#51
  • Aug 27, 2011
  • #51
I just ran a 14.9/93mph in my stock aod equipped convertible LX last night.that was with massive wheel spin.The trans definetly is holding it back.
 

Sharad

ALWAYS choose the V over the P!!! Wait... what?
Jan 5, 2011
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Fort Myers, Florida
Aug 29, 2011
#52
  • Aug 29, 2011
  • #52
Gearbanger 101 said:
Nice step by step breakdown.
Click to expand...

Thanks. Drag racing & suspension setups are some of my favorite topics.


90mustangGT said:
Nice writeup Sharad.

Well, I go to the track, ET Streets mounted, thinking I was going to get some good runs. The air was cooler, car seems faster. Get to the track and actually get to use the burnout box and get my tires wet. Do a burnout and wow these things are sticky. Went to the line, on the second stage light stalled the stock converter as high as it would let me (or low I should say) and when the light turned I let off the brake. Seemed strong.... felt good.... 8.8 at 83mph, 2.0 60ft. Almost a 2.1. The best run was a 8.7.

I have found the wall with this AOD. Before on street tires, although spinning it was probably allowing the car to "stall up" a little. Now it is just kind of bogged down. I did the 1-D-1 shuffle twice.... tranny is telling me not to do that anymore. I can tell it doesn't like it.

Time to take the TKO off the shelf and get it in. Thanks everyone for your input. The stock AOD sucks major monkey balls. I think I got a lot out of a stock engine/AOD Mustang. Most are complete dogs, mine actually runs pretty strong. However, this chapter needs to close.
Click to expand...

Thanks man. I'm sorry to hear that you didn't hit your goal with the AOD, but I'm sure the TKO will be a day and night difference. Can't wait to hear how it runs! Let me know if there's anything I can do to help.
 

90mustangGT

I felt sorry for girls because
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Aug 29, 2011
#53
  • Aug 29, 2011
  • #53
Sharad said:
Thanks. Drag racing & suspension setups are some of my favorite topics.
Click to expand...

Welcome, one of mine too. So often overlooked. Suspension is as important in drag racing as it is in autocross, circle track, ect. I kind of get a laugh out of people saying their car can't hook because it has too much power... yeah, that's like saying my car can't corner because it's too fast.

Sharad said:
Thanks man. I'm sorry to hear that you didn't hit your goal with the AOD, but I'm sure the TKO will be a day and night difference. Can't wait to hear how it runs! Let me know if there's anything I can do to help.
Click to expand...

Well I tried.... getting the most out of your combo before improving it I think is important. Yeah me too can't wait to get the TKO in there.
 

VibrantRedGT

"STANGNET'S PENGUIN SMACKER"
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Aug 30, 2011
#54
  • Aug 30, 2011
  • #54
Sharad said:
Thanks. Drag racing & suspension setups are some of my favorite topics.




Thanks man. I'm sorry to hear that you didn't hit your goal with the AOD, but I'm sure the TKO will be a day and night difference. Can't wait to hear how it runs! Let me know if there's anything I can do to help.
Click to expand...

His stock AOD / Motor will never ever launch like that. In a stock application it has known to help with launch and weight savings. Also with his AOD probably even better since there is no aid to human error. Someone should test it on an application like this just to see it there is a noticeable difference. Couple of runs with the bar connected, a couple without and take an average time.
 

ill advised

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#55
  • Aug 30, 2011
  • #55
90mustangGT said:
I kind of get a laugh out of people saying their car can't hook because it has too much power... yeah, that's like saying my car can't corner because it's too fast.
Click to expand...
So true.
 

srtthis

the guy doing it does every local racers rear end
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#56
  • Aug 30, 2011
  • #56
great write up Sharad! know whos fun to talk with about suspensions with... clueless import owners who know nothing about how to put huge power to the ground. its not as easy as we all make it look. there is so little of a window from smacking the rear bumper and blowing the tires off. the suspension has to be dead nuts on along with the tune up....
 

Sharad

ALWAYS choose the V over the P!!! Wait... what?
Jan 5, 2011
1,562
480
94
Fort Myers, Florida
Aug 30, 2011
#57
  • Aug 30, 2011
  • #57
90mustangGT said:
Welcome, one of mine too. So often overlooked. Suspension is as important in drag racing as it is in autocross, circle track, ect. I kind of get a laugh out of people saying their car can't hook because it has too much power... yeah, that's like saying my car can't corner because it's too fast.
Click to expand...

Agreed, suspension is critical! And that comment was funny! ^^


90mustangGT said:
Well I tried.... getting the most out of your combo before improving it I think is important. Yeah me too can't wait to get the TKO in there.
Click to expand...

Yep, it's the best way to isolate the gains of each individual part. So what are your clutch plans with the TKO? I've had good luck with Centerforce.


srtthis said:
great write up Sharad! know whos fun to talk with about suspensions with... clueless import owners who know nothing about how to put huge power to the ground. its not as easy as we all make it look. there is so little of a window from smacking the rear bumper and blowing the tires off. the suspension has to be dead nuts on along with the tune up....
Click to expand...


Thanks dude. You're right. And you guys are definitely makin' magic happen on the little tire!
 
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