Going Drag Racing, need to know how to do a burn-out with stick

MustangMatt1966

New Member
Mar 11, 2004
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Orlando Fl.
I am going to the track on friday to run my car. I can drive a manual transmission well, but am clueless on how to do it. I know with a auto, just hold the brake with the left and mash with the right, thats easy. But how would one go about doing it with a manual. Dump the clutch and get on the break???? I dont know, any suggestions for my racing experience at the track would be appreciaited....

Matt :shrug:
 
I do the burnout in 2nd gear and heel/tow the brake/throttle and once the clutch is released, swap the left foot over to the brake and dedicate the right to the throttle. You don't need to just roast the tires, when they get to smoking pretty good, I let out of the brake and let the car roll forward, easing off the throttle as it rolls forward. Once you get pretty good at it, you can roll forward into the first light (prestage) off the burnout. This gives you plenty of time to focus and get ready to stage (second light). The car I used to drive had a air conditioner compressor magnet attached to the floor with a button on the steering wheel. The clutch pedal arm had a swivel socket welded to it (snap-on, of course) and a metal plate welded to the other end. The "trans" brake button was also attached to the delay box and the roll control (there was a seperate roll control button on the stick for burnouts). I had to get into the lights, pump up the brakes, hold the wheel button, engage the clutch pedal to the magnet, made sure the tranny was in 1st gear, and get ready for launch. This is why I did my burnout asap and learned to roll up to the prestage lights as I had a lot of things to do before the bulbs came down.Do not, I repeat, do not do a second dry hop. It's not needed and as the tire reps say, your first launch is your best launch.
 
this might sound stupid and dangerous but heres something i did one time... I was out 4x4 in 2wd :nonono: i tried to make it up this icy hill and came down backwards like a rocket... i ended up all cockeyed heading towards a steep bank... once i stopped slidding everytime i let off the brake the truck would slide further to the edge of the bank... i needed to get out and lock my hubs in but i couldnt let off the brake... after some quick thinking i found my window scraper and jambed it between the brake pedal and the seat :D hey it worked, i slowly crawled outa the truck and locked my hubs in and managed to get outa there in 4x4....

But ya know what i dont think its such a good idea anymore :rolleyes: :D


i got a line lock in my car... very nice for burnouts.... but ya sidestepping the brake and gas sounds like it may work.....

you could always go out and practice :flag:


-gbm-
 
I have eagke GT-II's and I never hit the water, if I don't do a burn out it always spins when I leave, If I do a small one just enough to get them smoking a little it hooks better but if it loses traction you can forget getting it back, so I think just do a small one to clean the trash off and you'll be aight


Good Luck let us know how it goes




And that was when I had 3.55's not 4.30, big problems with 3.73 these ought to be fun
 
We run a '68 coupe in a class called True Radial, where you have to have real radial tires, no ET Streets, no drag radials, etc. We'd like to pull around the water, but it's always all the way across anyway from the guy sweeping the trash out. If you go to the track and they have standing water, man that's bad. All the tracks we hit barely have an 1/8"-1/4" of water standing in the main grooves, none in the dip where the guy sprays. I pull my buddy to the front edge of the wet and get him spinning them until there's a nice consistant haze, not rolling smoke, then have him pull up. We're running about a 400 hp motor, home built C4 with 4000 Trans Specialties converter, and a 9" with 4.33 gears. 255/75/15 Dunlop GT Qualifiers on the rear. He brings the converter up to the flash point and hammers down on the second light and we get no spin, so I guess it works. We'll be at WFC7 with his red '68 coupe in either ET2 or Open Comp, but I'm not sure if we'll be running slicks or street tires. Changes this year include a 4" cowl hood, a Funnel Web, and a Performance Automatic C4 with a trans brake that we may or may not hook up. We'd like to get a Neal Chance pull apart converter, but that's some big bucks. We had to get the Trans Specialties converter redone after the trans went to crap last year at WFC6. Bought the brand new PA tranny from the vendor late Sunday for a song. We now have just short of what a Chance converter would have cost in the TS converter, but really, its a brand new converter, so if anyones interested in it, let me know. Not sure what he wants to get out of it, but I imagine it'll be about 4 Ben's.
 
Back it My Street Racing days, :nonono:

Not having a Linelock, I would take the rpm up slowly timing it to when it hit 2K, I would nail the throttle and Dump the Clutch at the same time.
When it starts to roll forward, I would back off the petal with a slow-quick pace.

That will Clean and Warm good Steet Tires. :D


Yea and Practice it too, I missed timed it one night and snapped a motor mount from a 4.5k launch. :bang: Twisted the Hell out of the Shaker. :(

PB
 
uggh, that sucks at 4.5 k, wow......i just need to keep practacing, i think i am going to go to some deserted place i know where ther are hopefully no po po's around, and i will ry and light them up. I think i will attempt the heel-toe action thing. I will let you all know how it goes tomorrow.
Matt
 
MustangMatt1966 said:
I am going to the track on friday to run my car. I can drive a manual transmission well, but am clueless on how to do it. I know with a auto, just hold the brake with the left and mash with the right, thats easy. But how would one go about doing it with a manual. Dump the clutch and get on the break???? I dont know, any suggestions for my racing experience at the track would be appreciaited....

Matt :shrug:

Sorry guys, I don't get it. Why do you want to do a burn out at the drag strip? Thought a burnout was lost HP and Torque that reduced ET.
I have only run at the local track with my 6 banger. Usually when I ended up
"burning out" I lost time. :shrug:
 
93lx50conv said:
DAZ, before you race, you do the burn out so your tires are sticky and wont spin at launch, that way you hook up better and get better ets

Sorry, my misunderstanding. I thought you were trying to burnout at the pole. With my car, there is no need to even try and heat up the tires.
I run stock all season radials. My best time at the 1/8 (actually a few yards
less than an eighth) is 5.75. Car is pretty much a girlie car... missing two cylinders). Good thing it is not a 1/4 because I have maxed out any marginal
increase in power. Probably do a 17 second 1/4.

The outlaw class and drag radial class usually heat up before racing, but they have real cars with real engines in them, not some punny no guts 3.8 POS.
:banana:
 
DAZ said:
Sorry, my misunderstanding. I thought you were trying to burnout at the pole. With my car, there is no need to even try and heat up the tires.
I run stock all season radials. My best time at the 1/8 (actually a few yards
less than an eighth) is 5.75. Car is pretty much a girlie car... missing two cylinders). Good thing it is not a 1/4 because I have maxed out any marginal
increase in power. Probably do a 17 second 1/4.

The outlaw class and drag radial class usually heat up before racing, but they have real cars with real engines in them, not some punny no guts 3.8 POS.
:banana:

ummm, your car doesn't run a 5.75 in the 1/8 mile, trust me. A 10.75 maybe.....If it ran 5.75, that would be about a 9.xx second quarter mile time. I'm not trying to be a smartazz, I just don't anyone to be confused. peace