going to datalog...

If you want better drivability first.

I would do a vary-ing rout with hwy, stop and go traffic, merging, maybe some hills with stops...take it down a very very lightly traveled road and do some "sudden" stops and starts. I would shoot for a 20-30min log.

As far as idle I would focus on that after getting your MAF and inj. slopes dialed in so you know they are not a big issue. Then see how it idles and go from there. You will probably want to make the changes from the first log (the one talked about above), let the eec settle with the changes and drive it to see how those changes went (would be a good idea to log these changes to see were your at if the ride is good or bad). Then start to focus on the idle...IMHO 98-99% of the idle will be solved with the maf/slopes sorted out....do some tweecing with the inj. timing and idle really seems to stable out.

WOT really without a W/B the only thing you can do is varify your timing is what your comanding in the tables. The A/F you will need a Wideband. Timing and fuel is preatty much it at WOT.

i got a new laptop battery today so i'm gonna start datalogging this afternoon.

so its better to do 1 long combined drive compared to seperating all of them?

i'm anxious and afraid to see my results LOL

Well Paul

I've thought about what you are wanting to do a good bit
and
I kinda see it along these lines

It can be beneficial
but
Not totally effective

The beneficial part is you can get closer with your tune
This will be from the first data you gather ... as a baseline.

The part that might not be all that effective is ........

Without the ability to datalog multiple times ... You won't be able to
make more adjustments with a second, third, fourth, or how ever
many steps are needed to get things closer and closer to perfection.

Just trying to show
You might need a bit of time
To make noticeable progress in certain areas of the tune

Greg is right on about dealing with drivability first

You'll find this to be Closed Loop conditions and they will be present
for something like 99% of your drivability tune. You will most likely
have a bit of transition between Closed Loop and Open Loop (WOT)
to deal with which makes up the remaining other 1% IMHO.

Again... IMHO... Greg is right on about WOT
You need a Wideband

You can spark it up a bit in the base table
You can kill the shift retard
ALWAYS ... ALWAYS... Listening for the ... Ping Thing

But ...... I'd stay away from the fuel tables :Word:

See ... the thing is

You learn as you tune
You can at times see ... that does not ... OR ... that did not
Work like I thought it would

And you see these things ... by looking at data

Hope this makes sense
if not
Get specific with your Q's
and
We will get more involved in it

Really ... As I see it .......

I'd have to know how long you have access to his unit before I
would feel comfortable with specific advise about your idea

and

I'd need more specific info about your current issues/concerns
before suggesting methods of gathering data in what might be
a short time frame opportunity to be the most effective with
what you are trying to accomplish.

This could become V E R Y interesting
and
A lot of fun for A L L the Tweecer members here

Grady

when i tune mine from scratch I do this.

idel tune
local driving tune 1 miles 30mph tops
tune
local driving tune 2-3 miles 45mph tops
tune again
local driving tune 2-3 miles 45mph tops
tune again
local driving tune 2-3 miles 45mph tops
tune again im anal yes.
recheck idle
tune
Wot pull
tune
Wot pull
tune
Wot pull
tune

you dont *need* to do it this many times but my car runs amazing now nearly perfect before i even turn the 02's back on. Do alot of light acceleration thats the hardest part to tune since we usualy blow run past it.

My method was to do no less than 20 minute datalogs with a mix of idle, part throttle, stop & go, highway and some WOT blasts. I'd input my DL into EA and if need be I'd filter the DL, say for 800-900 rpms, to play with the idle, then maybe the 900-2500 rpm for part throttle and then 2500 rpms and up to mess with WOT. Or/and I'd just have EA calculate MAF with the entire DL.

Another thing to remember when working out the MAF curve - decide if you're going to adjust the MAF curve using the Injector Slope or Break Point method. Don't do both because you'd be like a dog chasing it's tail. I adjusted my MAF curve to the stock Cobra Injector Slopes since I still have the 24lb injectors.

As Grady stated, you will more likely than not need to DL multiple times because EA will be suggesting adjustments. In my case once the adjustments suggested by EA were 1% or less, I was ok with the MAF curve then.

Example: Last weekend I changed my O2s (long story) and decided to do some DLs (mind you she was idling pretty solidly) and the DL showed I was prettly lean (Kamrfs 1.08-1.12). Then it clicked , I forgot I had TMOSS port my lower intake - i.e. more air flow- most likely because of no real noticable idle issue and other lifes priorities . EA used my DL and suggested between 5-8% adjustments to the idle and part throttle area of the MAF curve. First, I had EA calculate MAF curve with the entire DL, then I broke it down, i.e. filtered the DLs, for idle, part throttle and WOT and put all this info into an Excell spreadsheet and calculating the adjustment %. After making the adjustments suggested by EA and doing followup DLs, EA's suggested adjustments are well under 1% now. So now I'm good again. She idles even better now . The Kamrfs are back closer to 1.

Wheew that was long.

Just One Man's Opinion as there's more than 1 way to skin a cat

Peace

Al