Got an engine lift/stand today....

[1973mach1]

Got the engine stand and lift today to take the 351c out of the mach 1 and rebuild it. It seems to be not too bad as far as difficulty after reading the Haynes manual on rebuilding the engine. IM going to have the headwork on the 4v quench heads done by a shop and IM using a Summit rebuild kit for the engine. Should I have to have anything done to the crank or rods? Is it necessary and will it add much power if I do anything to the crank? As for the engine pull I think its just 2 bolts holding the engine to the car and 2 bolts holding the tranny to the car? so by taking the tranny cross member out and the 2 bolts off from the engine it should be ready to pull considering I already pulled the wires and hoses? IM hoping for 350RWHP with headers, 750 carb, flat top pistons, quench heads 10.5 to 1 compression, street dominator intake, exhaust port plates and a pretty wild but streetable cam. Once I get the engine out IM going to detail the engine bay and get that all cleaned out till I can afford the money to rebuild the heads and engine. Hopefully it should be running by summer. Does anyone happen to know what a 3k stall for a FMX cost? I cant seem to find FMX stall converters for sale anywhere.

Thanks,
Jim

 

[GaPonyFarm]

... Should I have to have anything done to the crank or rods? Is it necessary and will it add much power if I do anything to the crank?

Thanks,
Jim

You would be wise to have the crank checked and turned .010 under, if necessary. You could also have the journals camphered to help it oil better. Its always a good idea to have the rotating assembly balanced before putting it all back together.

If you plan on running it hard, spend the extra money for forged pistons and hardened rods... it will save misery later, especially if you plan on using nitrous.

For the torque converter, $350 should be the starting price for a good quality piece. Again, if you plan on using nitrous, you'll need a torque converter made for that purpose.

 

[restomodracing]

You will have to plug the end of the trans after removing the yoke (driveshaft) otherwise trans fluid will pour out. Don't forget to remove the speedometer cable, the shifter linkage, throttle linkage, and ground straps (back of engine to firewall). I assume you removed the trans cooling lines too. Did you disconnect the starter cable?

 

[1973mach1]

Thanks for the reply's I just removed the top end stuff so far still have to remove the tranny cooling lines, linkage, engine and tranny mount. Hopefully I can do this Sunday and pull the engine.

Thanks,
Jim