Got the engine... :)

[zZsKyZz]

I just got an engine for $150.

1988 Mustang GT 5.0 H.O.
Forged pistons
double chain

It has low compression in 2 cylinders due to a blown headgasket [so the guy says] and it's the complete longblock minus the timing chain cover and the alternator.

I plan on adding a set of GT40 or GT40p heads, a E303 or B303 camshaft [anyone know the difference and how they are?] or the steeda #19 camshaft...I would like something more agressive that will take advantage of the engine a little more. I was looking at cobra or GT40 heads for a while but noticed that I can get a trickflow intake for about the same price which sounds better. I'd like to keep this below $1300ish. I found the camshaft(s) on summit for about $160, the intake for $500ish, and can probably find a used set of heads for about $300.

Now what I wanna know:
-What type of injectors should I use?
-What MAF/throttle body? I was thinking about a 70mm from professional products?
-Will it be okay with my transmission?
-it will fit under my stock hood, right?
-is there anything else I can do to add more power and strength to this engine? I'd like to add nitrous later... a 100 shot of dry.

Also, I want to go outside right now and start taking the heads off and inspecting it.. Is there any special way to remove the heads? what about the lower intake manifold and the injectors? should I sand down the top of the engine so I get any pieces of the head gasket off?

Help/info/suggestions? I know tons of you have done this before... Help me out here!

Thanks!

oops...Edit:
I forgot, should I add in a tweecer? am I able to get it up and running fine without a programmer? Will I have enough power to compete with newer cars such as the 99+ GTs? SRT4s? WRX STi's? etc.... est. HP? times? etc...

 

[1TallMF]

Wow, thats alot of questions. But, with your plans for the engine, first thing that came to my mind was a main cap girdle to strengthen to bottom end.

There is one valuable piece of information you forgot to mention that might make answering some of those questions alot easier: what is the mileage on this motor?

 

[OrangeMustangGt]

get gt40p heads....those are the pick of the litter....and i reccomend the trick flow street heat intake....The cam, whell go with what works.

 

[blksn955.o]

For our cars the 19cam will be the best choice.

If your going to get a t-body I would not get a PP one...if the quality is the same as the elbow or anything close your better off getting a BBK/Edlb. or so.

24#ers will be good and if your getting a tweecerR/T (dont mess with the base unit unless its used and at a good price then get the upgrade) you can get buy with the stocker maf for a bit (its good till 290-300rwhp).

100 shot is an easy shot for an 88. I ran a 125 on the stock 94 shortblock with no real issue from the n2o (I hit a rev. limiter while my window switch was on back order and had a nice backfire...110% my fault not the n2o's). Its all in the tune/safty stuff.

 

[drakesdad]

For our cars the 19cam will be the best choice.

If your going to get a t-body I would not get a PP one...if the quality is the same as the elbow or anything close your better off getting a BBK/Edlb. or so.

24#ers will be good and if your getting a tweecerR/T (dont mess with the base unit unless its used and at a good price then get the upgrade) you can get buy with the stocker maf for a bit (its good till 290-300rwhp).

100 shot is an easy shot for an 88. I ran a 125 on the stock 94 shortblock with no real issue from the n2o (I hit a rev. limiter while my window switch was on back order and had a nice backfire...110% my fault not the n2o's). Its all in the tune/safty stuff.

Agreed.....stay away from the PP.....I have one and it did not fit ....had to drill out two of the holes to make it fit....idle screw fell out....it is working now but it will be replaced.......go with a ford 65mm or BBk is what my tuner told me.........

 

[zZsKyZz]

I want to have a really loapy sounding cam though.. nothing like stock.. something that will be mean and kinda make it sound like the older mustangs.. something that will have awesome off the line torque and power..

 

[ProKiller]

most people that want a cam like that get a big cam then hate it down the road cause of the idle issues and the vibrations. if its not your DD then i say go for it, but if it is your DD tone it down a bit

 

[Black95GTS]

Don't buy parts twice. With nitrous, you will need the extra RPMS. Get a 6500 rpm intake. Track heat or Eddie RPM II comes to mind.

36 pound injectors.

PMAS 80mm MAF. Buy it once and be done.

Accufab 75 MM tbody if trick flow, 70mm tbody if eddie.

255 lph fuel pump for the nitrous.

Stock T-5s don't like the extra 200 ft-lbs of torque a 100 shot will shock it with. Depends on how you drive it.

You can't really do much for the engine, the block will be the weakest link in that combo. Get a safe tune for the nitrous, you should be putting down around 400rwhp and 500rwtrq on gas. I've heard of blocks being fine with more then that.

A "lope" is caused by generally higher lift. Size accordingly. IMHO, picking a cam based on its potential for "lope" is probably the worst rubric possible, but thats up to you. You will need to upgrade valve springs to accomodate higher lift.

Are you running the 1994 computer or the 1988 computer? You're gonna need to tune the 1994, but with the 88 model, you can get it pretty good by twisting the dizzy and an adjustable fuel pressure regulator.

Adam

 

[blksn955.o]

The lope has more to do with the lsa and dur. of the cam than lift. A buddy of mine put a .512 lift cam in a SD car (lsa, dur., centers for a sd car so it was near stock-ish in those areas). It sounded just like a stocker only a hair louder and deeper no lope at all.

The 19 will sound lopy and will run better than any of the letter cams. You will also have less issues with the computer.

On what the gt40's can do 36's will be overkill even with a dry shot 30's would be about as large as I would want to go with only a 100shot even with a tuner the dry kits still raise the fuel press. at the regulator.

If your not going to make any large scale changes for a few years after this is done like heads or stroker the stock maf or even one of the other 4.6 80mm mafs (I have a chart that shows the flow compared to the 94-95's) you will want to get a meter that you will use the most of the transfer without pegging it. A 90mm Lmaf/03 maf is just too big. With stock un-ported gt40 heads you will prob. not break past the 290-300 rwhp limit of the stock maf...even the stock t-body does quite well...but a quality 65 or 70mm will be a great match to the HCI you have. N2o is not really an issue with the maf as its after the maf it gets sprayed and it does not really cause the maf to peg since it has its own un-meter'd air in the mix that does not get read by the maf.

 

[BlackVert]

grady's says he has a pretty lopey cam and great drivability, you might touch base with him and find out about it. i think it's an FTI cam

here's his idle clip ...

http://www.geocities.com/final_5_0/hear_it_idle.wav

 

[zZsKyZz]

I've decided against the GT40 heads and was looking at heads while at work today.. The World Products Roush heads seem to be decently priced and a good head..has anyone tried these?

 

[Black95GTS]

The lope has more to do with the lsa and dur. of the cam than lift. A buddy of mine put a .512 lift cam in a SD car (lsa, dur., centers for a sd car so it was near stock-ish in those areas). It sounded just like a stocker only a hair louder and deeper no lope at all.

The 19 will sound lopy and will run better than any of the letter cams. You will also have less issues with the computer.

On what the gt40's can do 36's will be overkill even with a dry shot 30's would be about as large as I would want to go with only a 100shot even with a tuner the dry kits still raise the fuel press. at the regulator.

If your not going to make any large scale changes for a few years after this is done like heads or stroker the stock maf or even one of the other 4.6 80mm mafs (I have a chart that shows the flow compared to the 94-95's) you will want to get a meter that you will use the most of the transfer without pegging it. A 90mm Lmaf/03 maf is just too big. With stock un-ported gt40 heads you will prob. not break past the 290-300 rwhp limit of the stock maf...even the stock t-body does quite well...but a quality 65 or 70mm will be a great match to the HCI you have. N2o is not really an issue with the maf as its after the maf it gets sprayed and it does not really cause the maf to peg since it has its own un-meter'd air in the mix that does not get read by the maf.

.512 is far from a high lift cam. I do agree though that there are lots of factors associated with "lope." Lift, duration, etc are all related to a certain degree.

The only way you're taking a stock MAF to 290-300 RWHP is with a TwEECer and massaging the voltage up. And even still you're pushing it.

Why worry about oversizing the injectors? I'd be more worried about undersizing them. 400 rwhp is about 460 fwhp assuming 15 percent drive train loss.

http://www.witchhunter.com/injectorcalc1.htm

You can find a ton of these online. I put in 460 fwhp at 90 percent duty cycle, and the calculator calls for 31.9 lb fuel injectors. No this isn't exact, but gimme facts any day. With this is mind I wouldn't hesitate to run 36s. Any time there is a power adder involved, go conservative, then go conservative again. Running rich > detonation.

Adam

 

[blksn955.o]

if you take the stock FP yes it will be alittle on the edge while on n2o at the 400rwhp mark. However, remember the n2o will raise the press. at the reg. as most dry kits do and that will change that to some extent since the inj. see higher press.

with a 100shot and unported gt40 heads (he is not going this route now but that is what was started with) he will not be but at like 350-370rwhp and that is saying he will see all 100hp of n2o at the wheels.

There is a guy local to me that has a 300rwhp 94-95 on the stock maf un-tuned it can be done and either way the unported gt40 heads will not be at that point.

no one said he was looking at a high lift cam but a cam that would go with the mods he has. The b cam has fairly small lift as well in the sub .490's and is known a lopy cam. Anything much over .500 is a waste on those heads anyway.