My dad had a saying that I have never forgotten...... he used to say “use the right tool for the job, but start with the one on top of your shoulders”. He definitely taught me to think things through before diving in!!
My dad had a saying that I have never forgotten...... he used to say “use the right tool for the job, but start with the one on top of your shoulders”. He definitely taught me to think things through before diving in!!
You said it was smoother . How much smoother .My motor has a high vibration . You have me thinking of getting one to replace my 30 yr old one
The vibration at idle and past 4000rpm is gone. My balancer didn't even look bad, but it had a noticeable wobble. If in doubt, just replace it, way cheaper than a motor.
Balancers were really never meant to be ran for anywhere near that amount of time. I'd replace that ASAP.
Glad it all worked out and your vibration is gone. Glad you used the installer as well. When it's a free rental tool at Advance, it is just stupid not to use it.
Kurt
Blown88GT
Founding Member
Mine just started leaking coolant today.I just looked through my Ford Mustang service manual (actual Ford manual) and it says to apply silicone sealant to the keyway as well.
The equivalent of this page in my '88 service manual is page 21-21-21
The instruction are on 21-21-20, paragraph 11.
It's the water pump shaft seal.
It's the original pump.
When the balancer is out, will apply sealant as specified.
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I have a small , but heavy feeling vibration thru my car, When I rev the engine , and when I get on it. When I say heavy also could be considered small but sharp. I have an old balancer. Looks ok I guess , but it seems out of round because of that weight on the side. I have I list of things I want , but a budget for one thing. I dont want a destroyed bottom end. What do you think the possibility is that the balancer is the problem. Using this older post because we dont need any more.
No it seems like I can see that weight. Im going to the garage, and put my finger on the side while it going.
I just put my finger on side of the f...kn thing and its off one eighth of an inch. It wobbles , so whats the story. Dont drive it. Sounds like a stupid question , but how does the ring get bent could be off quarter inch... Drive or no drive
I replaced mine and my vibration went away. It didn't look bad either, but comparing it to the new one the outer ring had spun about 10°. It doesn't sound like much but it made a difference. If in doubt, replace it. It's pretty easy to do and cheap insurance.
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No, definitely don’t drive it before replacing the balancer. Unless you like your mains getting hammered on.
Im putting it away. This weekend Im doing it or at least starting it. Its had some vibration for a while. How bad could it be.
I just put a new balancer in. Used my Harbor Freight wheel puller. Popped new one in the oven. As seen here . Slid it on like nothing , after dab of black stuff on the key. No more vibration and less jumpiness. Really happy with this fix. Old one was falling apart.
Blown88GT
Founding Member
Where you thinking that Its not right like I was. Thats a lot of pressure on the small key. I got mine on Amazon for $46.00 . Made in China , but so is Dorman. Mine is the exact same as oem. I dont have $100.00 right now. I really cant get over how much the car just feels newer.
Blown88GT
Founding Member
No, you're OK. Just a small tolerance difference & it won't slide on. For example: if replacing more than one item that attaches to other items & the tolerances of the parts are all towards the plus or all towards the minus, you will have a tolerance stack-up problem. Happened to me with my e-fan, it wouldn't fit any more after new timing chain cover, water pump, radiator. The difference was about 0.125 in
What's up Kurt I asked you just inbox you on messenger a question about the power bond. I definitely want to make sure I get the right one and the pb1060 SS there's no verbiage on summit even when I was on the phone with them as to whether that's solely a fox or it will work on the 94-95. Also I need a 28 Oz by the way which it is.
As to the ATI dampers, are they fluid-filled?
ATI are not fluid dampers.
www.atiracing.com
I believe that the only difference between the Fox and 94/95 cars is the crank pulley. Hopefully someone else more knowable on the difference can chime in.
ATI - Super Dampers® for Ford Engines
ATI harmonic Super Dampers for Ford Engines dampen crankshaft harmonics to boost horsepower and torque to race, street and truck engines.
I believe that the only difference between the Fox and 94/95 cars is the crank pulley. Hopefully someone else more knowable on the difference can chime in.
What's going on man yeah doing a little research yesterday and talking to some guys on the FB groups the pulley is further out on the fox than it is with the sn95. The smaller the OD damper you get as and it seems if you get something no more than around a 6.4 you will not have a problem with one of the water pump bolts. Guys have shaved a little bit off the water pump bolt I think only and not the water pump itself if you go with something around a 6.5. I like the power bonds but I'm not finding a 28 Oz that's smaller than a 6.5 so I'm going to call them on Monday but if not I'll probably just go with a professional products SFI rated that's around 207 and then the adapter that I will need is about 20 something bucks. That's about the price of the power bonds and the power bond has the built-in adapter so you don't need in another adapter that will put the pulley in the right orientation.ATI are not fluid dampers.
ATI - Super Dampers® for Ford Engines
ATI harmonic Super Dampers for Ford Engines dampen crankshaft harmonics to boost horsepower and torque to race, street and truck engines.
I believe that the only difference between the Fox and 94/95 cars is the crank pulley. Hopefully someone else more knowable on the difference can chime in.
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