HCI on 100k+ shortblock. Yes or No ?
- Thread starter fiveoho
- Start date
good chance i will have a stock t5/bell/flywheel coming out soon. has 110k on it but would sell it resonable. not sure if you would be interested?
I pulled mine at 167k. It was bone stock, but I beat the crap out of it for about 50k. 
Only problems with it was a noisy lifter and the oil pan was leaking. Actually, I just sold it to a guy and it fired right up after sitting for two years.
Only problems with it was a noisy lifter and the oil pan was leaking. Actually, I just sold it to a guy and it fired right up after sitting for two years.I pulled mine at 167k. It was bone stock, but I beat the crap out of it for about 50k.
definetly makes me feel good
I'll say it this way ... I could agree AND disagree with him
I can relate to his thinking as years ago ...
I twisted wrenches on Motorcycles for a living
and
There are some peeps around who on a daily basis tear up
BB's and Bowling Balls with the attitude of
...... "Doesn't Everybody"
Based upon info you provided above ... You don't seem like that
Yes ... h/c/i will work that motor with more stress
but
Your right foot does control that amount of stress
Lets just say ... h/c/i on your Stang has the potential of
greatly reducing the lifespan
Bottom line ... Sure ... more power will shorten lifespan
and
If you throw juice in the mix with your concerns ...
Well ... what do you think will happen
with even ... more power
Its all about how well your rings are NOW sealing
and
Your attitude about how often you ask it for max power
First order of biz is ... How much squeeze in the holes
Grady
If you're really concerned, why not throw another $200 at a re-ring kit? You'll already be deep into the engine anyway.
thats a good idea
as far as labor costs are concerned, do you think it would run that much extra to re-ring? would be tore all the way down to the pistons anyway...
side note-
my factory hyper pistons probably ok for making 300ish whp opposed to forged?
"my factory hyper pistons probably ok for making 300ish whp opposed to forged?"
HAha. That is another internet myth. There is nothing wrong with hyper pistons ESPECIALLY N/A PERIOD.
Now, you can run nitrous OR boost on them NP PROBLEM as well as long as you get a good tune! I would recommend NOT experimenting with tweecer either. There are a few guys who have run boost and nitrous and screwed up/blown up their cars because they are amatuers NOT professionsals EXPERIMENTALLY tuning their cars with trial and error and internet "maybes" for answers.
Go and get the professionals to tune it for n/a and then flip a switch for n02 or whatever you like as a 2nd or 3rd tune and be done with it.
HAha. That is another internet myth. There is nothing wrong with hyper pistons ESPECIALLY N/A PERIOD.
Now, you can run nitrous OR boost on them NP PROBLEM as well as long as you get a good tune! I would recommend NOT experimenting with tweecer either. There are a few guys who have run boost and nitrous and screwed up/blown up their cars because they are amatuers NOT professionsals EXPERIMENTALLY tuning their cars with trial and error and internet "maybes" for answers.
Go and get the professionals to tune it for n/a and then flip a switch for n02 or whatever you like as a 2nd or 3rd tune and be done with it.
I'll say it this way ... I could agree AND disagree with him
I can relate to his thinking as years ago ...
I twisted wrenches on Motorcycles for a living
and
There are some peeps around who on a daily basis tear up
BB's and Bowling Balls with the attitude of
"Doesn't Everybody"
Based upon info you provided above ... You don't seem like that
Yes ... h/c/i will work that motor with more stress
but
Your right foot does control that amount of stress
Lets just say ... h/c/i on your Stang has the potential of
greatly reducing the lifespan
Bottom line ... Sure ... more power will shorten lifespan
and
If you throw juice in the mix with your concerns ...
Well ... what do you think will happen
with even ... more power
Its all about how well your rings are NOW sealing
and
Your attitude about how often you ask it for max power
First order of biz is ... How much squeeze in the holes
Grady
thanks for chiming in grady.
you're right- more stress but it can be controlled.
you seen someone yell at a guy with a fast car and say "get on it" and the driver replies "better not"........well, im that driver
i do have fun in my car but its rare. and when i do, its very controlled. i have had my car for 3 years and have "dumped the clutch" ( at no more than 3500 ) maybe 3 times. i have NEVER smoked the tires or bounced the rev limiter.
im the guy that hardly ever uses the power but when i do want it, i want to know its there.
as far as the rings go, is this what you are saying?: if the car does not smoke now, then the rings have sealed well and probably wont for a long while ( based on driving habits ) even after the HCI.
thanks again
so really, forged would just be overkill for what im doing?
i will not be using boost or spray on this motor:
no boost because i will be poor for a long time
no spray because ....i just dont like it
Oh gosh no, I would not go to the trouble to do that or anything else to the engine other than just putting in the H/C/I .. and maybe lifters. I just look at it this way..plenty of guys are running their engines ALOT harder than what you are suggesting wit hALOT more miles and have been for ALOT of time. The hyper pistons are a NON issue for anything N/A.
As to the tuning, I could never get any real answers I needed anywhere about the tweecer from anyone here or anywhere else. It was as if they wanted you to pay a price or struggle b4 you got an answer and even then they gave you an incomplete answer. That is my experience. I am not flaming stangnet by any means. That was JUST my experience with the TWEECER. It was a freaking nightmare. PLUS I didn't have time to fool with it and to do it right you needed to spend around $1000 with all the gadgets and it never sealed right on my stock computer and would shut off all the time. Drove me nuts....SO...
I went and got a chip for $250 and a tune from Kauffmans for $220 and I have MULITIPLE settings and never ever have to fool with it or HOPE and pray for help from anyone... I just get in and drive and I know it is professionally done!
Now I am expecting some
flamage on that one!!! LOL. BUT that is MY opinion. It does not mea nit is right for everyone!
As to the tuning, I could never get any real answers I needed anywhere about the tweecer from anyone here or anywhere else. It was as if they wanted you to pay a price or struggle b4 you got an answer and even then they gave you an incomplete answer. That is my experience. I am not flaming stangnet by any means. That was JUST my experience with the TWEECER. It was a freaking nightmare. PLUS I didn't have time to fool with it and to do it right you needed to spend around $1000 with all the gadgets and it never sealed right on my stock computer and would shut off all the time. Drove me nuts....SO...
I went and got a chip for $250 and a tune from Kauffmans for $220 and I have MULITIPLE settings and never ever have to fool with it or HOPE and pray for help from anyone... I just get in and drive and I know it is professionally done!
Now I am expecting some
flamage on that one!!! LOL. BUT that is MY opinion. It does not mea nit is right for everyone! Oh gosh no, I would not go to the trouble to do that or anything else to the engine other than just putting in the H/C/I .. and maybe lifters. I just look at it this way..plenty of guys are running their engines ALOT harder than what you are suggesting wit hALOT more miles and have been for ALOT of time. The hyper pistons are a NON issue for anything N/A.
As to the tuning, I could never get any real answers I needed anywhere about the tweecer from anyone here or anywhere else. It was as if they wanted you to pay a price or struggle b4 you got an answer and even then they gave you an incomplete answer. That is my experience. I am not flaming stangnet by any means. That was JUST my experience with the TWEECER. It was a freaking nightmare. PLUS I didn't have time to fool with it and to do it right you needed to spend around $1000 with all the gadgets and it never sealed right on my stock computer and would shut off all the time. Drove me nuts....SO...
I went and got a chip for $250 and a tune from Kauffmans for $220 and I have MULITIPLE settings and never ever have to fool with it or HOPE and pray for help from anyone... I just get in and drive and I know it is professionally done!
Now I am expecting some
yea the tuning issue scares me to death. i considered buying a tweecar but im already intimidated. im computer savvy....but NOT tuning savvy.
i just want it to run good enough to drive around town until i can get it tuned
I agree with Pokageek. IMO, stock internals are fine for anything NA until you get into the 400+rwhp range. Or somewhere around there.
Self tuning is for people that really want to learn how to do it, or if you change combos all the time. If you just want one tune and to be done with it, get it professionally tuned. I think it's actually cheaper to have the car tuned than to do it yourself.
Self tuning is for people that really want to learn how to do it, or if you change combos all the time. If you just want one tune and to be done with it, get it professionally tuned. I think it's actually cheaper to have the car tuned than to do it yourself.
Some people swear by tweecer too so they deserve their say.
Also, don't make the other mistake I made which was changing injectors to 24# and buying a MAF PROGRAMMED for 24# injectors and expecting the car to start up and run...it didn't. In fact, it bucked, spat, choked and sucked, lol..after I did the H/C/I. It REQUIRED a tune unlike some others have experienced. That cost me $1200 to figure out because I took it to an overpriced shop that took me for an idiot which I later found out from the guys here that all I needed was reprogrammed MAF table.
Sound's like just bad luck to me. It wasn't a C&L meter was it? My 418 didn't run perfect, but it was pretty darn good with a Pro-M 80mm calibrated for 42# injectors.
I hear the L-Maf is the way to go, tho. Because it uses stock electronics it's easier to tune, or something to that effect.
Yes, I agree. AND most shops find it a lot easier to work with the lightening! Yo u can get one for like $90 and they are 90mm.
I usually have good luck too BTW, but with the building of this car, I had some serious trial and error and mistakes too. Now I know it inside and out though..mostly.
BTW, pro-M was a good choice and may be the reason for your success! I tried to find one and couldn't at the time.
EDIT: Oh, yes, I first tried the stock MAF but that did not work. Then I bought another one calibrated for 24# but I dont remember..it was not C&L.
Just a bit more detail I guess to get you started
You can tell about the rings with two methods
1 Compression Check
2 Leak Down Check
#1 is pretty easy for anyone to do with a tester
#2 is a bit more involved but is more precise
This also tells you how well your valves are holding pressure
at their seats
So if you have a hole or two with lower values then you very
well could be seeing a prob there as well
Anyway ... just find detailed info about each method and
it will become all too clear for you
Grady
lol, as for the tweecer its a matter of personal opinion... everyone is entitled to thier own opinion. But dont take one persons opion to heart. Look at the community as a whole. People arent blowing thier cars up left and right
As For it not seating right and shutting off, your suppse to clean both sides of the J3 port very throughly and then shim the tweecer on then tape the tweecer on, all problems solved there.
For the tuning bit of it, Get a wideband and make sure you dont go lean and make sure your not getting any detonation and you can tune it yourself just fine. the learning curve on it is steep, but once you do learn it and understand whaan be dot the Air/Fuel needs to be and what needs to be done with the timing self tuning cne effectivly and really isnt all that dangerous as he made it out to be, you can probly get just as good of a tune yourself as a professional does if you take your take and have a wideband.
As For it not seating right and shutting off, your suppse to clean both sides of the J3 port very throughly and then shim the tweecer on then tape the tweecer on, all problems solved there.
For the tuning bit of it, Get a wideband and make sure you dont go lean and make sure your not getting any detonation and you can tune it yourself just fine. the learning curve on it is steep, but once you do learn it and understand whaan be dot the Air/Fuel needs to be and what needs to be done with the timing self tuning cne effectivly and really isnt all that dangerous as he made it out to be, you can probly get just as good of a tune yourself as a professional does if you take your take and have a wideband.
Some people swear by tweecer too so they deserve their say.
Also, don't make the other mistake I made which was changing injectors to 24# and buying a MAF PROGRAMMED for 24# injectors and expecting the car to start up and run...it didn't. In fact, it bucked, spat, choked and sucked, lol..after I did the H/C/I. It REQUIRED a tune unlike some others have experienced. That cost me $1200 to figure out because I took it to an overpriced shop that took me for an idiot which I later found out from the guys here that all I needed was reprogrammed MAF table.
uh oh...i have a 70mm bbk TB and a ProM 75 cali'ed for fms 24#ers to throw into the mix along with a 190 pump and a aeromotive fpr......
Just a bit more detail I guess to get you started
You can tell about the rings with two methods
1 Compression Check
2 Leak Down Check
#1 is pretty easy for anyone to do with a tester
#2 is a bit more involved but is more precise
This also tells you how well your valves are holding pressure
at their seats
So if you have a hole or two with lower values then you very
well could be seeing a prob there as well
Anyway ... just find detailed info about each method and
it will become all too clear for you
Grady
i'm writing this down....
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