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Head Recommendation For An Unusual Cam

  • Thread starter Thread starter Braden65
  • Start date Start date Jul 31, 2014
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barnett468

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#21
  • Aug 2, 2014
  • #21
Braden65 said:
Afr 165 have 60cc chambers same as the edelbrock. I'm genuinely curious why the edelbricks are 600 cheaper. Slightly less quality? Less research so are able to make them cheaper? Do they both put out comparable gains when used on the right applications?
Click to expand...

hello;

the afr 165's flow slightly more than the eddys but as i mentioned, that is irrelevant. parts must be matched.

i forgot why the eddys are cheaper. i know the springs are not quite as good but they don't need to be for a small cam.

air flow at different lift is what needs to be matched to a cam. the cam must be matched to compression and gearing.

you could have irom heads or plastic heads or papermache heads. if the all have the same air flow and chamber size they are all capab;e of producing the same hp.

afr's are great heads, buy them if you want them. the have 58 cc chambers so milling them .036" will be much better than milling the eddys .036". they also have the 1.9 and 1.6 valves like the smaller eddy's.
 
Last edited: Aug 2, 2014
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Braden65

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#22
  • Aug 2, 2014
  • #22
barnett468 said:
hello;

the afr 165's flow slightly more than the eddys but as i mentioned, that is irrelevant. parts must be matched.

i forgot why the eddys are cheaper. i know the springs are not quite as good but they don't need to be for a small cam.

air flow at different lift is what needs to be matched to a cam. the cam must be matched to compression and gearing.

you could have irom heads or plastic heads or papermache heads. if the all have the same air flow and chamber size they are all capab;e of producing the same hp.
Click to expand...
Perfect explanation exactly what i was wondering. I'll be able to afford the Eddy's sooner so that's probably what I'll do.
 
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Braden65

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#23
  • Aug 2, 2014
  • #23
barnett468 said:
hello


are your pistons flat top or dishee.

either way you need to mill the eddy heads to 56 cc's otherwise your compression will be low.
Click to expand...
just found out my pistons are flat. I thought valve relief and dished were the same thing
 

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barnett468

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#24
  • Aug 2, 2014
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Braden65 said:
just found out my pistons are flat. I thought valve relief and dished were the same thing
Click to expand...
ok, cool but if you win the lotto and want the most hp, buy the afr's because the extra 2 cc smaller chamber will help and the extra flow won't hurt and will still acomodate a little bigger cam later. your flat tops still have 4 valve reliefs instead of 2 so those eat up some compression.
 

rbohm

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#25
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Braden65 said:
What rpm range do you think it'll pull at?
Click to expand...

as i recall that cam has an effective rpm range of about 1000-5000 rpm, a good street cam for the smaller heads you have in mind. before you pull the heads for milling, run the math on the compression ratio, the dish volume on the pistons is available some where, and find your compression ratio first. then run the numbers on what your CR would be if you milled the head X mount, etc. you might find that your current setup has a nice 9:1 compression ratio which is fine for the street, as it allows you to run 87 octane fuel.
 
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Braden65

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#26
  • Aug 2, 2014
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barnett468 said:
hello


are your pistons flat top or dishee.

either way you need to mill the eddy heads to 56 cc's otherwise your compression will be low.
Click to expand...
just found out my pistons are flat. I thought valve relief and dished were the same thing
rbohm said:
as i recall that cam has an effective rpm range of about 1000-5000 rpm, a good street cam for the smaller heads you have in mind. before you pull the heads for milling, run the math on the compression ratio, the dish volume on the pistons is available some where, and find your compression ratio first. then run the numbers on what your CR would be if you milled the head X mount, etc. you might find that your current setup has a nice 9:1 compression ratio which is fine for the street, as it allows you to run 87 octane fuel.
Click to expand...
do you think 87 or 93 makes a huge difference? I'm currently running 93 because iv heard it keeps everything cleaner. Carb ect. And the extra $2-4 when I fuel up every other week isn't a huge issue
 
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barnett468

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#27
  • Aug 2, 2014
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Braden65 said:
just found out my pistons are flat. I thought valve relief and dished were the same thing
do you think 87 or 93 makes a huge difference? I'm currently running 93 because iv heard it keeps everything cleaner. Carb ect. And the extra $2-4 when I fuel up every other week isn't a huge issue
Click to expand...
hello

if you want to run 93 then bump your compression up as i mentioned so you can get the most out of your engine. the extra 600.00 for the afr heads is a small price to pay over the many years you will have your car but again, the eddy's will work.
 

rbohm

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#28
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Braden65 said:
just found out my pistons are flat. I thought valve relief and dished were the same thing
do you think 87 or 93 makes a huge difference? I'm currently running 93 because iv heard it keeps everything cleaner. Carb ect. And the extra $2-4 when I fuel up every other week isn't a huge issue
Click to expand...

dont run 93 if you dont have to, that is just a waste of money.
 
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Braden65

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#29
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Ill be able to afford the Eddy's sooner and also the exhaust. I'm slightly impatient. Would the Eddy's need to be port matched?
 
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barnett468

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#30
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Braden65 said:
Ill be able to afford the Eddy's sooner and also the exhaust. I'm slightly impatient. Would the Eddy's need to be port matched?
Click to expand...
hello;

lol, i know the feeling.

i like to check the intake port alignment with the port on the head but in your case you can really just mill the heads and bolt the intake on.
.
 
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Braden65

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#31
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Just eyeball it? Make sure it's close? Would getting a thinner head gasket equate at all to milling the heads
 
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barnett468

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#32
  • Aug 3, 2014
  • #32
Braden65 said:
Just eyeball it? Make sure it's close? Would getting a thinner head gasket equate at all to milling the heads
Click to expand...
hello

no a professional would need to look at it.

if you run no head gasket it would be the same as the milling but i would use a head gasket.
 
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Braden65

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#33
  • Aug 3, 2014
  • #33
barnett468 said:
hello

no a professional would need to look at it.

if you run no head gasket it would be the same as the milling but i would use a head gasket.
Click to expand...
After milling would I need new pushrods?
 

rbohm

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#34
  • Aug 3, 2014
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Braden65 said:
After milling would I need new pushrods?
Click to expand...

that depends on your rocker arm geometry, which you need to check after milling. if the geometry is ok, then no you wont need new pushrods.
 
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Braden65

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#35
  • Aug 3, 2014
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rbohm said:
that depends on your rocker arm geometry, which you need to check after milling. if the geometry is ok, then no you wont need new pushrods.
Click to expand...
Awesome! You guys are extremly helpful
 

tos

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#36
  • Aug 3, 2014
  • #36
Branden Here's an option for you if you want to save some money.
I have several items if youre interested. I have iron 289 heads modded and setup for a flat tappet cam. ported, 2.02 intake valves, threaded rocker studs, guide plates, comp cams 1.6 roller rockers (steel). Hardened pushrods, ARP head bolts, All that ran for only a few hours. Also have edelbrock performance head gaskets, Valve cover gaskets. In addition to all that I have a never used complete pertronix distributor and a windage tray. I'll make you a good deal on all or part of it. If your interested email me at tos636@gmail.com
 
Last edited: Aug 5, 2014
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Braden65

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#37
  • Aug 4, 2014
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This sound okay? I've heard bad things about reps. Just checking. I may save up and just be patient not sure yet
 

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barnett468

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#38
  • Aug 5, 2014
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Braden65 said:
This sound okay? I've heard bad things about reps. Just checking. I may save up and just be patient not sure yet
Click to expand...
hello;

i don't understand what your question is.

i told you that 165 afrs are slightly bigger than what you need but will work killer. if you want to loose bottom end performance and not gain any top end perf, then buy the huge 185's that are run on 360 hp or more engines.

hes a rep making minimum wage. i'm an engine builder.
 
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Braden65

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#39
  • Aug 5, 2014
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I believe you
barnett468 said:
hello;

i don't understand what your question is.

i told you that 165 afrs are slightly bigger than what you need but will work killer. if you want to loose bottom end performance and not gain any top end perf, then buy the huge 185's that are run on 360 hp or more engines.

hes a rep making minimum wage. i'm an engine builder.
Click to expand...
I believe you! I was recommended to ask afr and what he said didn't sound right so I had to check. Thanks again!
 
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barnett468

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#40
  • Aug 5, 2014
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Braden65 said:
I believe you

I believe you! I was recommended to ask afr and what he said didn't sound right so I had to check. Thanks again!
Click to expand...
you did the right thing by checking with the mfg and comparing info from all sources. xlnt job.
.
 
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