Head Swap Build Thread: And other Improvements

Venom351R · Jun 19, 2011

Yeah it is not a stroker but it's nice to know that I have the heads to support any CID I decided to stroke the 351 out to.

Kurt I plan on getting this tuned and then off to the track ASAP once it's back together. Long tubes, mid pipe, push rods, electrical components and some wayzee pullies and it will be done. The TFS 240 high ports on summit are $500 more then what I paid for these heads and they dont come ported as much as these or with such a nice valve train

COBRA90GT · Jun 19, 2011

Nice thread/progress on the car Venom351R. Looking forward to the finished project.

Venom351R · Jun 19, 2011

I'm looking forward to getting it finished lol, been 9 months since I started it

Venom351R · Jun 20, 2011

I got the gaskets today and the springs for the rear so I was able to get it back down on 4 wheels again and I put one of the gaskets on and the passenger side head. I did clay the #1 cylinder. Also should I start with the #1 cylinder at TDC? I'm just waiting on getting the solid lifter so I can check the PVC. I did put a fresh set of Autolite 3924's in both heads.

When I go to Torque the heads down for good I know that it needs to be done from the inside out as far as the pattern. So does that mean that I start in the center, Torque the middle head bolt and then the lower and them move to ether the left or the right but then keep alternating back and forth until each end of the head is done?

Also does anyone know the proper step TQ sequence for the heads? I know its done in 3 stages or should I just contact Trick flow to get the exact TQ specs?

blksn955.o · Jun 20, 2011

I just followed the sequence listed in the manual. But instead of the Torq to yield portion (last step) I went to the old non-torq to yield manual spec...it was something between 90-120ft lbs but its been so long I forgot.

It would not hurt to call TFS and see what they recommend since they are alum. heads and all. I would note if your using studs, ARP bolts, or factory torq to yield.

Venom351R · Jun 20, 2011

I am using ARP studs and ARP nuts on the studs. I'll give TFS a call tomorrow

revhead347 · Jun 20, 2011

Venom351R said:
I am using ARP studs and ARP nuts on the studs. I'll give TFS a call tomorrow

You got the sequence down, if you have any question it's in the Haynes manual. Torque to yield specs obviously won't work. Standard spec is 80 lbft on the top, and 70lbft on the bottom. Call ARP directly though, because it differs from setup to setup. I remember them recommending a little higher spec for my O-ringed setup. The ARP staff is very helpful. Also, all the ARP torque specs are designed to be used with that ARP molly lube that is $7.50/tube. It's good insurance though. Screw the studs all the way down into the block with a little thread sealer. Then torque the nuts down on top with the moly lube.

Kurt

Venom351R · Jun 20, 2011

I just picked up this, is it the same as the Moly Lube you were referring to?

ARP 100-9910 - ARP Ultra Torque Assembly Lubricants - Overview - SummitRacing.com

revhead347 · Jun 20, 2011

Yeah, that's the stuff. It's availabe in a tube also, but if you have the brush and bottle that's even better.

Kurt

blksn955.o · Jun 20, 2011

revhead347 said:
You got the sequence down, if you have any question it's in the Haynes manual. Torque to yield specs obviously won't work. Standard spec is 80 lbft on the top, and 70lbft on the bottom. Call ARP directly though, because it differs from setup to setup. I remember them recommending a little higher spec for my O-ringed setup. The ARP staff is very helpful. Also, all the ARP torque specs are designed to be used with that ARP molly lube that is $7.50/tube. It's good insurance though. Screw the studs all the way down into the block with a little thread sealer. Then torque the nuts down on top with the moly lube.

Kurt

That rings a bell actually...IIRC I did 80 on bottom and 90 up top.

Venom351R · Jun 20, 2011

The Brush/Bottle is more then I need but I figured the application would be much more easy to.

I'll give ARP a call in the morning and ask about the TQ Ratings for my stud/nut set up. If everything goes right by this saturday I should have the PVC check done and the correct push rods that I need and once I get those from Ed I'll be able to assemble the top end again.

revhead347 · Jun 20, 2011

Oh yeah, I usually do my torque in 4 steps. For say the standard 80/70 setup, I go 40, then 60, then 70, repeat the 70 until it's all even, then 80 on the top bolts, repeat the 80 on the top until it's all even.

Kurt

Venom351R · Jun 21, 2011

I contacted ARP this morning and they said to torque them to 36 then 72 then 110 with the assembly lube on both sides of the washer and nut. They also said to thread in the studs all the way until tight then back them off 1/16th.

Also is there any need to use anything on the stud end that is being screwed into the block?

The lower intake manifold should be torqued 15-18 according to Edelbrock. My 1/2 drive TQ Wrench starts at 20ft lbs. Is going 2 ft lbs over a big deal or should I get a 3/8 drive TQ wrench that starts below 20ft lbs?

VibrantRedGT · Jun 21, 2011

Wow 110. We are using GT40X aluminum and did 35, 55, 75.

The 2ft lbs is barely a half of thread so it shouldn't be a problem. We used the same stuff on the lower head bolts by the lower intake water jacket bolts. Some people use black RTV in those areas. Don't forget the sequence on that too.

Venom351R · Jun 21, 2011

"dont forget that sequence too" are you referring to the lower intake? And if so I was just reading up on that this morning .

I should be ordering the Accufab Headers next week, total cost is going to be $635. Only problem is I'm having trouble with what to do as far as a mid pipe. I just called MAC b/c I was interested in the prochamber and they said the Accufab headers would not work and he said I would get the same response from BBK. The mid pipe would either need to be shortened made longer or wider. But Accufab said they are about 5 weeks out from the time of order to the time the product is shipped so I have a little time to figure something out

VibrantRedGT · Jun 21, 2011

Yeah. You do the same as the heads, 2 sequence, 2 torque numbers. We finished I believe at 22 ft. lbs. We used the Haynes manual for all of this.

Also this website is real helpful. I have it saved to my phone so its great on the fly.

5.0 Engine Tech And Specifications

Why not get the MAC 1-3/4" Ceramic Long Tubes, I had them on my 347 and they were mint. Installed with 3" Black Prochamber and 3" Cat back. Car sounded incredible. I'm sure they will fit your heads just fine at half the cost.

Venom351R · Jun 21, 2011

The bolt pattern on the High Ports is off set, Im not sure if the MAC headers would work or not.

Great Link Good info there.

Adam95GT · Jun 21, 2011

The high ports also have a 3/4'' raised exhaust port... the problem is when buying normal headers is the clutchfork/floor pan.

Chris texted me for your address im pretty sure he sent out that lifter. George usually takes 4-6 weeks on the headers...

In response to your pm:
Chris and I made my midpipe.

Venom351R · Jun 21, 2011

Seems like the mid pipe is going to be a big hang up. Maybe I'll just order a mid pipe and hope I get lucky or that it wont require to much fab work.

I have another lifter coming just in case , Im just in a rush to get the heads bolted on and being off all weekend Id like to get it done sooner then later.

revhead347 · Jun 22, 2011

Venom351R said:
Also is there any need to use anything on the stud end that is being screwed into the block?

Yeah, you put teflon thread sealant on the bottom threads in the block. Those holes go into the water jacket, and you can get coolant leakage up the stud and out the top of the nut if you don't use thread sealant. Teflon sealant usually comes in a little white tube, or a white bottle with a brush at the parts store. It's cheap. Some people wrongly use RTV there. It gets the job done, but it makes a hell of a mess if you ever have to take it apart again, and inevitably leaves RTV chunks in your coolant system.

110 ft. lbs is a lot but I'll trust ARPs judgement on that.

I have raised port heads on my car and I use the standard BBK 1519 longtube headers, and it fits perfectly. I can't attest to the clutch fork issue, because I have a 3550 transmission which does not have the clutch fork in the same location as the SN T-5. BBK recently made a set of 1 and 3/4 primary headers for the SN, but they don't have the EGR tube bung. It looks like the heads you have have both standard bolt locations and offset ones. I don't know if the Mac ones fit. You're kind of on your own on the headers.

Kurt

Head Swap Build Thread: And other Improvements

Venom351R

COBRA90GT

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Venom351R

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revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.

Venom351R

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.

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Venom351R

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.

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revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.

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Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.

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