yeah thats what I was worried about is the width across more so then the length b/c to add or take away to make it shorter or smaller seems more easy then if it was not to line up at all.
I'll probably go ahead and just buy a standard mid pipe then and and hope for the best, if all it took was ratchet straps then I guess I should not be to bad off. As far as the headers Id rather just stick with the Accufab since I know I wont have any clearance issues ( I as well have the 3550 ) since they can fab it up exactly for my set up. It seems as though the mid pipe issue wont be as much of a problem as I first thought.
I have to pick up some teflon thread sealant anyway b/c Ed said to use it to screw in the rocker studs
I'll probably go ahead and just buy a standard mid pipe then and and hope for the best, if all it took was ratchet straps then I guess I should not be to bad off. As far as the headers Id rather just stick with the Accufab since I know I wont have any clearance issues ( I as well have the 3550 ) since they can fab it up exactly for my set up. It seems as though the mid pipe issue wont be as much of a problem as I first thought.
I have to pick up some teflon thread sealant anyway b/c Ed said to use it to screw in the rocker studs
He still has an issue with the 3/4'' raised exhaust ports.
my accufabs couldnt tuck the body any closer:
Ugh. I hate going on hoping it will work, it's better to just go with the assufab and know it will work. I don't have a lot if wiggle room fir getting this together tuned and to the track before it's winter time here. I'm already looking at august as long as I have no delays and dealing with header fitment issues would mess that all up
Ok so I did a check on the PVC tonight when I got home, I just want to make sure if you guys think this is right or not considering it barley left an imprint in the clay. I had the clay at the thickness of the dish in the piston and the intake valve barley left any mark into the clay and the exhaust I don't think left anything. Just want to know if this is out of the ordinary or not or if I didn't do it correctly. From what it looks like to me there is plenty of clearance. Also the clay was around the whole ouside formation of the dish in the piston and you can also see that it would not hit on the area of where the dish ends and it goes back up to the flat part of the piston.
Also what do you think of the pattern left on the top of the valve spring as far as pushrod length?
Also what do you think of the pattern left on the top of the valve spring as far as pushrod length?
I think the the pattern is a tad too wide like said but when you get the length sorted out the line should narrow out a little. The patch is wide as the rocker roller is traveling across the valve head instead of pushing the valve down.
This is why you look for a centered narrow contact pattern that stays narrow while in travel. It means the rocker is staying centered and putting its force directly to the valve and little energy is being wasted by the rocker traveling across the valve head surface.
This is why you look for a centered narrow contact pattern that stays narrow while in travel. It means the rocker is staying centered and putting its force directly to the valve and little energy is being wasted by the rocker traveling across the valve head surface.
If the PR is in fact too short then give the adj checker a 1/4 turn and go threw the cycle again. Its a repeated process until you get the line centered and travel pattern as narrow as possible.
It could also be helpful to bring the cam to mid lift and see were the contact patch is. It will probably give you a clearer measure as to were your rocker is actually sitting on the valve head as there will always be travel but by checking at mid lift the rocker should be center of the valve head. If its centered at mid lift...the pattern is going to be what the pattern is but you know your rocker is at the center of the valve at its mid point (mid travel). It will also save you a metric ton of time rotating the motor. You just have to setup a dial on each cyl. you check to measure for mid lift.
It could also be helpful to bring the cam to mid lift and see were the contact patch is. It will probably give you a clearer measure as to were your rocker is actually sitting on the valve head as there will always be travel but by checking at mid lift the rocker should be center of the valve head. If its centered at mid lift...the pattern is going to be what the pattern is but you know your rocker is at the center of the valve at its mid point (mid travel). It will also save you a metric ton of time rotating the motor. You just have to setup a dial on each cyl. you check to measure for mid lift.
I don't have a dial so I'll have
to just keep doing it the low tech way. When it warms up today I'll go out and try it out with the adjustable PR checker.
I bought a digital caliper but the imprint was so minimal that it does not appear that the valve is even going in the pocket in the piston. Is this common or normal?
to just keep doing it the low tech way. When it warms up today I'll go out and try it out with the adjustable PR checker.
I bought a digital caliper but the imprint was so minimal that it does not appear that the valve is even going in the pocket in the piston. Is this common or normal?
I got done using the adjustable push rod checker. Ended up turning it 3 turns from the stock length push rods that I had before. They were 7.60 so 3 turns would be 7.75. This is the best I have gotten it so far, its more in the middle then it was. The thickness of the mark has gotten thinner and the location on the top of the valve has improved. does it still need more length to it or am I good where I am? Also I checked the PVC again with the 7.75 PR length and this is what I came up with.
INTAKE VALVE
INTAKE VALVE