help a 5.0 brother out...

G

genericstang

New Member
Dec 27, 2002
120
0
0
Marietta. GA
#1
Im about to take on a fairly well taken care of a white '89 GT vert for about $1200 or so with only 127K on the clock. After talking to 89sleeper he helped me choose some "tune up" parts and this is the list i have so far:

- brass terminal cap and rotor set(dont know which)
- Autolite 24 spark plugs
- Taylor Spiro Pro plug wires
- (oil change)
- (radiator flush)

I also wanted to add a few performance items, but im am not trying to get crazy. We then came up with this:

- Cobra Intake
- VRS X-pipe[stainless steel] (w/cats) stupid GA emissions)
(already has 2 chamber flowmasters, but i was thinking about changing)
(thinking about a cai intake, but not sure)

--------------------

So, if anyone could add to these small lists it would be greatly appreciated.(edit: if you could lists websites/stores where i can get the above parts at the best price, that would help too) Also, the clutch engagement point is kinda, is that normal, and is there a better clutch that wont drain my pocket? Lastly(for now) what about a short shifter? I have had B&M's on 2 other vehicles and i really liked them, but dont know what they would feel like on a 5.0

Thanks in advance and I hope everyone has a great holiday. :flag: :nice:

edit: i hear a lot of subframes etc etc. what basic suspension mods should i do. i know subframes, but which ones? kenny brown, steeda? also would like to get some springs, and front strut/rear strut eventually.
 
#2
Start with subframes before you make any other suspension mods; and be sure the vert unibody isn't already tweaked before they're welded in. The non-vert is a flexi-flyer; when they cut the tops off they become like limp spaghetti. Roll cage/bar (welded in) would be better.
 
#5
First thing I do is check out all the panel seams. They should be uniform in gap thickness. If they're not (wider at the top than bottom, vice versa, hood sits offset to one side, or the trunk lid does, etc.) I'd check that area closely to see if the car has been hit and repaired. In any event, big differences in gaps indicate either repair damage or flex in the unibody. In that event I'd have a body shop put the car on it's chassis jig and see just how far out of whack things are. Ideally, you have them pull it back into shape (hydraulics on the frame jig) BEFORE welding in the subframes or other structural additions.

The best suspension pieces in the world can't do squat if it's the unibody that's absorbing energy by flexing. You'd be wise to get it well tied down before you can start asking more from the suspension/wheels/tires/brakes.
 
#6
On a budget? do the junkyard upgrade...

Gears - 87-88 T-Bird Turbo Coupe rear axle - disc brakes and 3.55 or 3.73 gears in one package for $125-$300. Add another $100-$200 or so to complete the brake upgrade.

94-95 Mustang GT MAF - $40-$100. It is 70 MM instead of the stock 55 MM on regular stangs built prior to 94. It uses a slip on duct on the side that goes to the throttle body and a 4 bolt flange on the other. You need a $25-$35 flange adapter from Pro-M to fit the stock slip on air ducting that goes to the air box. Wiring plugs right in with no changes. *1

95-97 Ford Explorer intake manifold & throttle body $150-$300. The intake manifold flows 220 CFM +, much better than stock. Throttle body is 65 MM, bigger than the 60 MM on stock stangs. I got a 96 with EGR passages that match the stock setup, so my smog gear works just like factory. You’ll need a 65 MM EGR spacer & new gaskets for $65-$90 so you have a place to mount the EGR & throttle linkage.

3G alternator from 94-95 Mustangs or other Ford. $20-$120. A must have to make the electrical system work like it should. You’ll need a 4 gauge power wire and a 125-135 amp fuse to go with it about $15- $30.

Lincoln MK VIII electric fan -$40-$160. Free up some HP by not having to drive the stock fan. The 3G alternator upgrade is a must have prerequisite before you do the MK VIII fan. You won’t have enough electrical power if you don’t do the 3G upgrade.



*1.) Pro-M has revised their website lately, but here's what I found for the MAF adapter flange.

http://performancepartsmall.com/detail.asp?id=224 - plastic adapter

http://performancepartsmall.com/detail.asp?id=223 - metal adapter

I got a metal one from Powered by Ford for $35 and tax. That was over a year ago.

Powered By Ford
1516 South Division Avenue
Orlando, FL 32805
Hours 0800-1800
Phone 407-843-3673
http://www.poweredbyford.com/
 
#8
if not mentioned, i would go through the things in the factory service interval schedule. that gives an idea of wear items to do (fuel filters, fluids, etc).

i would look into things like thermostats, trans and rear fluids, brake pads, and so on. just a good once over (for other things like U joints, grease fittings to hit), and so on.

good luck.
 
#9
Genericstang: I'm in Acworth, just a few exits north of you. There is a lot around here. A good mustang shop is Mustang Services off Canton Rd in Marietta. They did my gears and subframes, and did damn good work and a fair price to boot. There is also Mustang's Unlimited off I-85, lots of parts in stock, decent prices, you should drive down there, it's worth it to go in and look around. The closest track besides Comerce is Southeastern Dragway often refered to "Dallas".

I am a mechanic at the E.H. Sellars Goodyear off Sandy Plains where it meets Shallowford. If you want, stop by and I'll take a look at your car. I might be able to give you some advise and give you a few pointers. If something is a little too much, let me know and I'll try to help you or I do side work cheap. Also, about you needing to run cats to get past emmisions, not nessasarly, I might be able to get you around that, ;) friends in low places.

Good idea, make it run right with a tune up, then put some subframes, gearsm a K&N, remove silencer, then go from there. I suggest underdrives, o/r H, catback, and a MAF.

For the tune up I run FMS Cap & Rotor kit, FRPP 9mm Plug wires, and autolite 25's. Don't forget to set the TPS, change the PCV and screen, and clean the TB and intake. Fuel Filter, very overlooked. Maby you should just drop by the shop or PM me.
 
#12
90mustangGT said:
Genericstang: I'm in Acworth, just a few exits north of you. There is a lot around here. A good mustang shop is Mustang Services off Canton Rd in Marietta. They did my gears and subframes, and did damn good work and a fair price to boot. There is also Mustang's Unlimited off I-85, lots of parts in stock, decent prices, you should drive down there, it's worth it to go in and look around. The closest track besides Comerce is Southeastern Dragway often refered to "Dallas".

I am a mechanic at the E.H. Sellars Goodyear off Sandy Plains where it meets Shallowford. If you want, stop by and I'll take a look at your car. I might be able to give you some advise and give you a few pointers. If something is a little too much, let me know and I'll try to help you or I do side work cheap. Also, about you needing to run cats to get past emmisions, not nessasarly, I might be able to get you around that, ;) friends in low places.

Good idea, make it run right with a tune up, then put some subframes, gearsm a K&N, remove silencer, then go from there. I suggest underdrives, o/r H, catback, and a MAF.

For the tune up I run FMS Cap & Rotor kit, FRPP 9mm Plug wires, and autolite 25's. Don't forget to set the TPS, change the PCV and screen, and clean the TB and intake. Fuel Filter, very overlooked. Maby you should just drop by the shop or PM me.
Click to expand...

well hell ya. this sounds like a good idea. when i get this stang in my hands(hopefully next week) i will definately come by and have your opinion on it.

im not too savy when it comes to muscle cars, i deal with imports most of the time(dad and i's project car together is a 2002 celica gts 6 speed too many mods to list)[his daily driver]

anyway... you will definately have to help me out setting the throttle position sensor[no idea], and what is the PCV and screen? helping me out with the no cats situation would help me save a few bucks too, id push some of that your way :).

i guess after getting your advise, i will start the tune up process and then you can suggest some performance upgrades :nice: i look forward to getting this thing going. thanks again for your help, and if anyone else wants to help me out, be sure to post it up. thanks :flag:
 
#14
genericstang said:
well hell ya. this sounds like a good idea. when i get this stang in my hands(hopefully next week) i will definately come by and have your opinion on it.

im not too savy when it comes to muscle cars, i deal with imports most of the time(dad and i's project car together is a 2002 celica gts 6 speed too many mods to list)[his daily driver]

anyway... you will definately have to help me out setting the throttle position sensor[no idea], and what is the PCV and screen? helping me out with the no cats situation would help me save a few bucks too, id push some of that your way :).

i guess after getting your advise, i will start the tune up process and then you can suggest some performance upgrades :nice: i look forward to getting this thing going. thanks again for your help, and if anyone else wants to help me out, be sure to post it up. thanks :flag:
Click to expand...

Sure, I'll do what I can. The shop is usually either dead or balls to the wall. When were dead, they don't really care what I do, but when busy it's hard for me to get a minute, so we might have to set something up after work from there, but stop by. :nice:
 
#15
I have a o/r vrs xpipe sitting in my garage, dad bein a bitch about installing it. Very quality piece though. I changed from Flowmaster 2 chambers, and I am so glad I got the better tone. I always thought it sounded like flows till I heard it from the outside, man it sounded way sicker than flows ever have. And I got rid of them puny stock pipes.
 
#17
i dont have experience with those kits, but it seems from my foggy recollection that it is a decent deal.

good luck.
 
#20
genericstang said:
ima shoot them an email and get the specs on the parts supplied just to be sure. :nice:
Click to expand...

The email i received...

the wires and the cap and rotor are Ford Racing parts and the rest is Motorcraft parts




Regards,
Downs Motorsports / TheFordSource.com

----------

now my question is...do i go with this or buy things seperately?
 
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