help a 5.0 brother out...
- Thread starter genericstang
- Start date
genericstang said:
Sounds good, I would if I were you.
BTW: I will probally be off from Thursday until Monday, maby Tuesday, PM me before you drop by.
i was sittin here having a revelation, let me know what you think...
this is car is a convertible, and also has semi-hi mileage. so is it really worth modding, or should i just hold off for awhile (and maybe another 5.0 will come around thats a coupe)?[i would like to race at a track, but i dont think you can with a convertible, unless you have a full roll cage]
i am getting the car some time this coming week probably thursday/friday when i get paid. i got to get the tag switched, insurance changed, etc. then im going to do the tune up things.
EDIT//also quick question...all the fox bodies dont have rear disc brakes right? just checking.
this is car is a convertible, and also has semi-hi mileage. so is it really worth modding, or should i just hold off for awhile (and maybe another 5.0 will come around thats a coupe)?[i would like to race at a track, but i dont think you can with a convertible, unless you have a full roll cage]
i am getting the car some time this coming week probably thursday/friday when i get paid. i got to get the tag switched, insurance changed, etc. then im going to do the tune up things.
EDIT//also quick question...all the fox bodies dont have rear disc brakes right? just checking.
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
Only you can figure out if you want to mod it or not. Many drag strips/sanctioning bodies require a roll bar or cage with verts - you'll have to check where you plan to race it. Many also have exemptions for convertibles that are 'stock'.
As for the high mileage - before adding significant mods to any high mileage vehicle, you should check the integrity of the engine, chassis and drivetrain. Cranking compression and/or leak down tests will tell you how well the cylinders are sealing. Spending some time driving the car and getting it up on a rack should tell you what kind of shape the rest of the drivetrain and chassis are in.
The fixed roof foxes are flexible flyers - the vert's unibodies are about as stiff as limp spaghetti. Any serious modding should be done AFTER the chassis is stiffened up. At the very least subframe connectors. And a well engineered and welded in roll bar/cage can help immensely to stop all the body flex that occurs in older unibody convertibles.
As for the high mileage - before adding significant mods to any high mileage vehicle, you should check the integrity of the engine, chassis and drivetrain. Cranking compression and/or leak down tests will tell you how well the cylinders are sealing. Spending some time driving the car and getting it up on a rack should tell you what kind of shape the rest of the drivetrain and chassis are in.
The fixed roof foxes are flexible flyers - the vert's unibodies are about as stiff as limp spaghetti. Any serious modding should be done AFTER the chassis is stiffened up. At the very least subframe connectors. And a well engineered and welded in roll bar/cage can help immensely to stop all the body flex that occurs in older unibody convertibles.
genericstang said:thanks for taking your time and helping me out. its hard to come by in here(for me at least) 90mustangGT i will let you know when i get the stang in my possesion so you can help me out[if you still want to] i cant wait to get things rolling soon. thanks again.
It may be a high milege convertable, but it's a V8 mustang in decent condition for $1000, you can't beat that, lucky to find a 4 banger in good shape for $1000. For that price, you could later down the road find a 4 banger notch in execlent conditon and swap, and probally still get over $1K for that convertable. Of course I will help with your car. I agree, you'll probally need some chassis stiffining. Once tuned up, if the engine still has that strong feeling, I would say you are OK. Car's with our age and milege you never know, but usually a worn out motor will show it's pitfalls just by the way it runs. Maby down the line when you start considering H/C/I, those issues such as leakdown will need adressing. I don't personally own the leakdown tester. My work might charge to do those kinds of tests, they won't let me work on cars for free in the shop, it's a buisness, and it's not my equipment, so I can't take it home, but the charge isn't that much to do a real engine test. Take care, give me a PM the day before you bring it up so I will know your comming.
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