help buildin up the baby

foxbody89

New Member
Sep 6, 2006
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i have 5grand to spend on my car and i want to know what are the best things i can get with 5 grand to get power and great sound. but i was think about going with the track heat pakage from trickflow and getin the MUSTANG TREMEC TKO 500 TRANSMISSION +STAGE 3 CLUTCH.just let me know what u think
 
my goal is low 12's high 11's.for street and strip but i kinda what a nice idle. i was thinkin about going with a high rev anderson cam. but dont know. o current mods are hooker headers with x pipin and dumps
 
I would say stick with the TFS package, i believe thats about 2k for h/c/i. I'd put the rest in the driveline. Maybe a Spec clutch, and chassis stiffening (full length subframe connectors, torque box reinforcements) and a nice rear end. If you have any money left over, pick up a set of slicks, that should put you in the 12's easily.

I have heard about issues with the stiffness of the stage 3, so maybe a stage 2/2+ would be fine for your needs, and it will handle the power, and a little easier on your leg.
 
331 or 347 is great if you have the money for it. I would tend to think that if you went with a 331/347 short block, TFS top end kit, tranny and clutch is going to put you well over 5 grand even if you do the work yourself. But all of those pieces are great and if you have the money I'd say do it.

DSS 331/347 $1,800
TFS Track Heat Kit $2,000
TKO 500 $1,700
Spec Stage 3 $300
 
blkcobra50 said:
331 or 347 is great if you have the money for it. I would tend to think that if you went with a 331/347 short block, TFS top end kit, tranny and clutch is going to put you well over 5 grand even if you do the work yourself. But all of those pieces are great and if you have the money I'd say do it.

DSS 331/347 $1,800
TFS Track Heat Kit $2,000
TKO 500 $1,700
Spec Stage 3 $300

I agree with everything, except the DSS 331, I would personally go with an internally balanced 331 unless your sticking with N/A. In which case the 347 would be the way to go, and don't worry about the oiling problem, companies like SCAT and Eagle don't have that problem with there kits.
 
Honestly i think a spec stage 3 will be overkill for your application and be excessively harsh on the drivetrain. I bought a stage II because i have a s trim going on my car shortly. The stage II is brutally grippy and like a lightswitch. Dont get me wrong i love the clutch, i wouldnt have anything else but...i dont see you making more than 400 hp @ the wheels so i would stick with stage II or a CF Dual Friction. The TKO is a good idea...but like some of the others said if you throw together an entire 331 and top end kit and all the supporting mods that you will need (inj., MAF, tuner, etc) you will be close to 5k as it is. Nevermind a complete drivetrain. I can give you one good piece of advice. SPend as much money as you can afford on everything you put on the car...that way you wont be upgrading cheap parts down the road. I personally would stay away from DSS...good luck
 
If your goal is 12's, no need to dig into the internals, all you would need to do is a H/C/I swap, and the TFS kit should do that for you. I would also suggest going with mass air (pro M), and go with 24lb injectors to be safe. After all i don't know about you, but i'd rather run a little on the rich side, than lean and risk detonation.

Clutch is your preference, but you might want to ask around, and maybe call the people at SPEC and see what they would recommend.

I didn't notice anybody else say anything about this, so I'm gonna recommend you get some nice gears to put in the rear end, like a set of 3.73's if its a daily driver, and that should make your car loads more fun to drive.
 
88Stang331 said:
I agree with everything, except the DSS 331, I would personally go with an internally balanced 331 unless your sticking with N/A. In which case the 347 would be the way to go, and don't worry about the oiling problem, companies like SCAT and Eagle don't have that problem with there kits.

I stated a DSS 331 only as an option. Kind of like a price figure to see how much it would cost not necessarily the only short block available...

Also what is the condition of your current shortblock? How many miles on it?
 
I would have to agree with Cobra on this one and say that if your already going to be tearing into your engine, and putting some nice expensive pieces on it, you might as well replace the rotating assembly while your at it. Also make sure you remember to factor in the cost of the machine work that will have to be done.

If you were to put together a 347 or 331 with a descent H/C/I combo, that would put you well into the 12's.
 
88Stang331 said:
I would have to agree with Cobra on this one and say that if your already going to be tearing into your engine, and putting some nice expensive pieces on it, you might as well replace the rotating assembly while your at it. Also make sure you remember to factor in the cost of the machine work that will have to be done.

If you were to put together a 347 or 331 with a descent H/C/I combo, that would put you well into the 12's.

agreed :nice: