HELP! I am replacing my Front Suspension today

DissFigured

New Member
Apr 26, 2005
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Dallas, TX
Following the advice of fellow forum-ers, I decided to tackle this myself. The shop would have charger about $350

I bought upper and lower control arms w/ ball joints installed, sway bar end links, strut bushings, and some other little odds and ends that came in the kit.

Last night everything came to a screeching halt when I realized compressing the springs is nearly impossible. I am trying to do it w/ a spring compressor that consists of a giant bolt, and two dangley hook things. It of course hits the spring seat before the hooks take hold. So, I put it in upside down and it is too cumbersome to use that way.


Here are my questions. Please answer as many as you can and please use non tech terms. I dont know what an A arm is or the K frame thing and I am still a bit confused about the G Spot. so when I hear put a jack under an a arm a ask myself "Is that a lower control arm I dunno"


Anyway
1. Is there a site w/ step by step instructions w/ illustrations on how to do some of this work?

2. Can someone very simply and clearly tell me how to compress the springs.

3. What order should I be replacing these parts in?

As of yet, I have it on jack stands, I removed the drum, and I removed the shock. I have the lower control arm resting on a floor jack. I began reading the forums, and learned right away that these springs can kill me so I have decided to get more info.

Thanks.
 
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Is this a crappy spring compressor? This is what I am using:
39750.jpg
 
I think you remove the shock and the shock tower and drop it in from the top and compress it. The car should be up on jack stands and then jack the lower control arm up until the spring is at ride height (not lifting car) attach the spring compressor and put tension on it. Then lower the jack.

It has been a long time since I did this so someone else may need to verify.

Edit: another http://www.fomoco.com/mustang-forum/reply.asp?ID=113414&Reply=113398
 
I actually did this yesterday.

Dude, The spring compresser will work it just takes some time. Yes, it dose have to go in upsidedown (the bolt head down) then you just use a open end wrench to compress it. The next step I made was to replace the Lower control arm. This can be tricky also because the lower arm, strut rod, spindle, and frame work togather to form a triangle. The angles can be hard to get right (one angle lines up but the other is way off). First I bolted the sturt rod to the lower arm very loosley (barely started the nut), then I put the other end of the strut rod through it's hole in the frame and tightened it down all the way (helps the angle where the lower arm bolts to the frame). Be sure to get the balljoint in its place and star its nut before you tighten the strut rod (frame end) all the way. Next you want to bolt the Lower arm to the frame. Getting the angle on this bolt proved to be tedious and the only advise I can give on it is to be sure you put the bolt back in going the same direction (nut towards the front on a 64-66) and use a hammer to slightly tap it around to line up the hole. The first/back hole will be easy to line up but the secont/front gave me problems. Lastly, tighten up the srutrod and balljoint look your work over grease it up and move on. It took me about 4 hrs to do this but I was just fumbling my way through it. I have not done the upper controll arm yet but it looks pretty straight foward. I will give a write up on it later if you need it.

Tyler
 
i used an air wrench on the bolts on my spring compressor. Works soo much faster and easier. Just be verry careful because there is a lot of vibration running through the springs.
 
No, it doesn't have to go in upside down, but you need to use spacers at the top of the compressor so the screw doesn't bottom out. I used a couple of large sockets, (3/4 drive I think), and it worked fine. It will help alot if you remove the shock tower cover. This is the sheet metal piece that is bolted around the spring. You may need a helper to hold the nuts that are on the inside of the engine compartment while you use a ratchet to take the bolts out from the wheel well area.
You said the control arm is resting on the jack stand. Move you stand to the engine crossmember so it is not pushing up on the arm as you try to remove the spring. The crossmember is the large bar that runs under the engine and is bolted to both sides of the frame.
 
I just finished replacing my front suspension and steering. The spring compressor I used (borrowed from my friendly neighborhood mechanic up the road) was a "clam-shell" type (actually used for coil-over strut rods) that fit over the outside of the spring. Yes the job is a PITA, and if you think getting the old springs out was tough wait until you go to wrestle the new ones in! If you can, have a friend help....a second set of hands would've saved me a lot of grunting and straining................
 
I put my jackstands under the frame rails where the firewall meets the floor. I also remove the steering knuckles first. The jack stand posiion allows the arms to drop as far as they can go and keeping the spring in when freeing up the ball joints gives you something a little more solid to hit with your steel mallet. As dave said, a stack of washers or a socket will help you do it from the top (I can't imagine doing it from below) and I like to wrap hockey tape around the fingers so they don't slip. I don't recommend an impact wrench, but I'm over cautious when it comes to safety.

It's not a hard job, just some spanners and cotter pins is all!

Edit: I was told to never try and do it with the macpherson strut type compressor Fritz! The type pictured works very well. I've used it many times without complaint!
 
krash kendall said:
Edit: I was told to never try and do it with the macpherson strut type compressor Fritz! The type pictured works very well. I've used it many times without complaint!
After what I went thru getting the new springs in, I think I know why! Hopefully I'll never have to do it again..............:shrug:
 
Dammit Dammit Dammit Dammit!!!!!!

I have them compressed as far as I think I should and they are still lodged in there pretty well. How far can I compress em before they snap and fling shrapnel into me? They are at about 10 inches.

I think this job is too big for me and my driveway. I think I am going to re assemble and go get raped by Pep Boys.


My Car
Picture001.jpg


The Nighrmare Notice the wratchet still lodged in there from when I attempted to do it from the bottom:
Picture002.jpg


I gave that up and ended up using pipe fittings as spacers
Picture003.jpg


My little $20 jack stands and jack which I think are way too small for this job
Picture004.jpg


Damn Springs
Picture005.jpg

Picture006.jpg


More mud covered parts
Picture007.jpg


Here are the new parts.
Picture008.jpg



I think I give up.
 
Use a flat bar with a hole in it in place of the hooks at the top. Then have the flat bar go across the top of the shock tower. Then turning the bolt will pull the spring up into the shock tower. You don't need to remove it from the car. Just keep it stuffed up in there and do your work.
 
Keep going, you are almost there!

I did this job a few years ago and know that it's a little scary when you really start to compress those springs, you wonder if they wull pop. Paying Pep Boys to do something you almost have done would be a shame. This is part of the learning process we all go thru when we start working on these cool old cars!:nice:

Don't worry, keep cranking and they will compress enough to be removed. For additional safety, you can take a chain and wrap it thru a few of the coils and connect the links with a bolt. Should the compression tool slip, the chain will prevent the coil from decompressing fully. Good luck and keep us posted.
 
Here's a new twist.
I was in the middle of giving up, and I released the compressor. After the spring was back, I noticed it was not seated on the top control arm. It is half on and half off. It is seated correctly in the top of the shock tower, but it is bending forward and wedged precariously on the front edge of the seat on the control arm.

Dare I try to re compress it while it is like this, or should I sell my house and leave the car in the driveway?

Am I fearing these springs too much? What if I just whack it w/ a 2X4 and knock it completely off the control arm?

sigh
 
:shrug: I have the same spring compressor as that and it is over 25 yrs old.
First remove the shock and tower cap,
I start with the hooks on the lowest coil they will catch and the upper most coil.
(tip, keep the hooks at 90 degrees from eash other (+) it will help keep the spring from flexing)

With a air impact its a quick zip on the bolt and comperss the spring till the inner coils almost touch, It will be albe to pull out without any wiggling or banging with a hammer.

Did you get the rubber coil pads in your kit?

PB
 
Congrates! - One side down.. ;)

If you will remove any rubber spacers (like the one in the pic above) before compressing it should help give the spring more room to compress.

I used a homemade version similar to that years ago but used an external version last month and it works as well.

-Stephen
 
when I did this I had the same type of spring compressor, however i removed the shock tower cap and put the top hooks on top of the shock tower it appears yours were all the way in the shock, dont know if that makes a diff.