I’ve daily driven my vortech 2V for years. No reason to be scared of boost. Low boost, the solid 4.6L, and how relatively lightweight our cars are makes for a good mix. I have a V3 tuner kit and a SCT tuner.

Things to think about with a vortech:
1) intercooling (worth it to find a quality treadstone or mishimoto intercooler)
2) piping (worth it to get quality aluminum piping and get it welded)
3) large powerpipe (don’t skimp on the supercharger intake pipe, get a larger upgraded intake pipe and pull fender air, don’t pull under hood air either)
4) MAF- with above intercooler suggestion I’d go with a blow thru set up like a sct-2600 maf
5) fuel injectors (go with at least 42 lb injectors for stock fuel pressure, 47 lbs gives you a good buffer)
6) upgraded fuel pump (290lph+) or boost-a-pump.
7) air oil seperator for your PCV system
8) aftermarket front bumper support or custom cutting of your current front bumper support to fit a large 3 row intercooler.
9) sticky tires - upgrade to at least a 9” or 10.5” rim in the rear and high quality high performance / max performance tires to handle the power.
10) upgraded clutch - I love my dual disc

Thanks for that info, where did you get your blower and do you think I can safely have 350+ Whp and drive it daily?
 
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Got the polished vortech V3 tuner kit brand new from summit. My daily makes 438rwhp on stock pistons and rods - high RPMs and detonation kill boosted motors - 400rwhp is a good guide for what these motors can take in stock form. Get a good dyno tune and keep the RPMs in the stock range and you should be in great shape in the upper 300rwhp range until you upgrade valvetrain & bottom end components.
 
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Hi so I have a 2000 Mustang Gt Manual , and I want to supercharge it I have someone that’s experienced and willing to install it for me For $1100 if I buy the supercharger and the conversion parts , 1st question do you recommend me buying a used supercharger off a 03 Cobra? And will it perform as good , or should I stick with Bolt ons , I’ve already dumped a lot of money in this car to be exact 6,415 , also a New paint Job , so I’m definitely not Selling it , what’s a efficient and best way to go and come out with 380 to 450Whp and what kind of bolt ons should I Install before Going Supercharged , Btw I’m posting a picture of the new paint job, and I’ll Keep you Gus Updated , Thanks in advance any advice is greatly appreciated.
I have a 97 2v. Started with top end after countless hours of research. Heads,cams, valve train, plenum, manifold and intake. The super charger can "blow" all it wants but if the cfh flow isn't there then its pretty much a waste. Same reason Ford developed the PI setup.
 
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If it were me... honestly I’d save the supercharger as the very last piece of the puzzle. Throttle body, cams, better O2 sensors, intake and exhaust upgrades, battery, coil and injectors, clutch and drive train parts, these are all things that will be put under additional stress after supercharger. So the better question is how long do you want this car to last??
Lol 'build backwards'. Can't blow a built tranny with a stock engine
 
I have a 97 2v. Started with top end after countless hours of research. Heads,cams, valve train, plenum, manifold and intake. The super charger can "blow" all it wants but if the cfh flow isn't there then its pretty much a waste. Same reason Ford developed the PI setup.
Flow is important but not the only determinant. Engines are air pumps - at a basic level the more air and fuel - the more power. Superchargers predominately add air by adding pressure. My engine is seeing 9 psi above atmospheric pressure with the same PI heads I had when I was NA. Adding the blower resulted in a nearly 150hp gain (50%+ hp gain) over my full boltons cammed NA setup because my engine is seeing 50%+ more air. If I upgraded my heads I would improve flow and get even greater gains.

I went with the blower first because our motors can safety take low boost and I wanted the HP now. Cost of a blower is about the same as forging the internals. If I would of built my motor I would still be at 290 rwhp - instead I have the gains now and I’m saving up for forged internals.
 
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Consider what happens when you turn up water pressure; more water flows, regardless of what's in the way. The same holds true for air pressure. Also consider that NPI and PI heads, in stock form, flow very close to each other (it's the cams and intake that make the difference). Unless you're getting TFS heads, or some serious head porting (another $2k or so), the difference is minor doing heads first.

Me personally, the rods are the only thing that make me nervous at those power levels. But, if you kill the bottom end, 2V 4.6s are cheap... :shrug:
 
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Got the polished vortech V3 tuner kit brand new from summit. My daily makes 438rwhp on stock pistons and rods - high RPMs and detonation kill boosted motors - 400rwhp is a good guide for what these motors can take in stock form. Get a good dyno tune and keep the RPMs in the stock range and you should be in great shape in the upper 300rwhp range until you upgrade valvetrain & bottom end components.


How much did it cost, and did you do it yourself or had it done at a shop if so how much was labor, the reason is I have 5k to drop on upgrades, should I just go for the v3 now or is it not ready yet , also driving the car a few days ago ( for the first time after Paint ) I noticed it way faster than it should be like I said this is my third 4.6 and I’ve only did minor bold ons on the previous ones , and this is the fastest yet , it felt pretty fast first time pushing it hard so I asked my brother to run 0-70 from dig and I pulled on him 1 1/2 to 2 cars which was weird because his is the same 4.6 the only difference is his is a 2003 , the only thing I noticed that’s not stock are the pulleys they’re all aftermarket but I doubt that’s the reason why it pulls so hard do you think the previous owner had done internal mods? Also another thing to note is that this car is a 4.6 2V and it has cobra seats, bumper, and logos I know for sure it’s not a cobra but idk he might’ve been trying to built one and crashed it lol
 
If he changed the gear ratio then it would pull like that.

Jack up the rear end so both tires off ground but wheels spring free. Make a mark on one wheel and start to slowly turn it. Check how many times the drive shaft rotated during one full wheel turn. That’s the poor mans way of determining a gear ratio
 
You can simplify the math behind gear ratio calculation if you drive at 60MPH in a 1:1 transmission gear (4th manual, 3rd auto) and note the RPM. The remaining math is simply: (tire revs per mile / engine rpm). You can find tire revs here Tire Calculator, and you should check your speed with a GPS device (smart phone will work), since you suspect the speedometer is off.

As for whether or not that car was an actual Corba, look at the VIN. 8th digit is the engine code. An X or W usually indicates 2V, while a V indicates 4V (Cobra)
 
How much did it cost, and did you do it yourself or had it done at a shop if so how much was labor, the reason is I have 5k to drop on upgrades, should I just go for the v3 now or is it not ready yet , also driving the car a few days ago ( for the first time after Paint ) I noticed it way faster than it should be like I said this is my third 4.6 and I’ve only did minor bold ons on the previous ones , and this is the fastest yet , it felt pretty fast first time pushing it hard so I asked my brother to run 0-70 from dig and I pulled on him 1 1/2 to 2 cars which was weird because his is the same 4.6 the only difference is his is a 2003 , the only thing I noticed that’s not stock are the pulleys they’re all aftermarket but I doubt that’s the reason why it pulls so hard do you think the previous owner had done internal mods? Also another thing to note is that this car is a 4.6 2V and it has cobra seats, bumper, and logos I know for sure it’s not a cobra but idk he might’ve been trying to built one and crashed it lol

Could be gears, a tune, or internal work (changed out pistons for higher compression). 1-2 cars isn’t much - weight and other small factors could add up to account for that.

I’d budget about $6k. Assuming all your basic maintenance is up to date - 5k is enough to start buying the components. Start shopping - get the right mix and execute!

With all the parts in front of you and the instructions - I’d make a decision on if you want to take a weekend doing the project or if you need additional help. Find a good local dyno tuner before you get started to discuss how you plan on tuning it. I got help with the pipe welding for my supercharger intercooler piping. I can’t weld aluminum as pretty as a professional (see pictures below - that red thing is my tial blow off valve).
 

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Could be gears, a tune, or internal work (changed out pistons for higher compression). 1-2 cars isn’t much - weight and other small factors could add up to account for that.

I’d budget about $6k. Assuming all your basic maintenance is up to date - 5k is enough to start buying the components. Start shopping - get the right mix and execute!

With all the parts in front of you and the instructions - I’d make a decision on if you want to take a weekend doing the project or if you need additional help. Find a good local dyno tuner before you get started to discuss how you plan on tuning it. I got help with the pipe welding for my supercharger intercooler piping. I can’t weld aluminum as pretty as a professional (see pictures below - that red thing is my tial blow off valve).
Okay perfect I appreciate the answers you guys have a been a lot of help, is the V3 any good from American muscle , and honestly I’d probably have it done at a shop because I barley have any time off and I don’t think I’ll be able to do a job that big by myself
 
Okay perfect I appreciate the answers you guys have a been a lot of help, is the V3 any good from American muscle , and honestly I’d probably have it done at a shop because I barley have any time off and I don’t think I’ll be able to do a job that big by myself

V3 kits come in two finish choices (polished or satin) and two main configurations (tuner vs complete). I went with polished because I like that finish and tuner so that I could customize the tune and fuel options. Shop around for which combo fits your preference and budget. AM generally has good prices.
 
A supercharger first is the way to go. It will give you the biggest bang for the buck and will probably get you to the performance level you want all by itself with no other mods. Further mods down the road will add more power if you want.

The v3 kit is probably the easiest supercharger kit to install. No oil lines, only one cooling line mod, and all work is in front /top of engine. It can be installed using basic hand tools and will include a tune and injectors. (If you get the full kit) Only a fuel pump upgrade would require a lift to do the work. If you are short on time even working 1/2 hour a day should get the kit installed in about a week.

The base kit will be safe for a stock engine as long as the engine is in good working order to start with. Down the road more boost and intercooling can be added.
 
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V3 kits come in two finish choices (polished or satin) and two main configurations (tuner vs complete). I went with polished because I like that finish and tuner so that I could customize the tune and fuel options. Shop around for which combo fits your preference and budget. AM generally has good prices.

Okay thanks for that info , so I’ve been looking at all the V3’s on Summit and they’re are kits ranging from $3,500 to $5,000+ and they all look similar what’s the difference do they come with more upgrades or bigger turbo/piping or higher quality I don’t understand, can you send me a link to the one you ordered or a part number because I’m pretty confused on which one I should order, thanks in advance:)
 
The model will depend on the power you want to make, the difficulty in install that you are ok with and the $ you want to spend. Vortech makes both the base v3 kit
and the HO v3 kit. The HO kit comes with the water to air intercooler and will be more $ and be a more involved install. Pro charger also makes a kit that comes with an air to air intercooler that is a self contained head unit. Either way your best bet will be a complete kit and not a tuner kit. If you go to either vortech's or procharger's websites you can get info on the kits.
 
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I bought from summit because at the time several years ago American muscle didn’t have a polished tuner kit (polished looks much nicer than satin, $300 extra is worth it). Now American muscle has the polished tuner kit and for a better price than summit.

Tuner kits come with this:
-Supercharger (V3 Si is an 1150cfm supercharger, Si is their “middle” trim- perfect for the 300-600 rwhp range)
-Air Intake + air filter
-Discharge pipe (pipe from supercharger to plenum)
-Oil discharge
-Necessary Hardware and Brackets

To finish off the kit - at a minimum you need 42lb injectors, fuel pump or boost-a-pump, and a dyno tune (talk to a local tuner - usually this is a handheld tuner + cost of a dyno tune). This minimum is a non-intercooled setup .... read my previous “things to think about with a vortech” list - upgrades to the piping, MAF, adding some type of cooling, and other nuisances make the setup much better.

2000-2004: https://www.americanmuscle.com/vortech-v3-sitrim-supercharger-tuner-kit-polished-9904-gt.html

97-98: https://www.americanmuscle.com/vortech-v3-sitrim-supercharger-tuner-kit-polished-9698-gt.html
 
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