HEY GUYS I FINALLY GOT THE SUPERCHARGER INSTALLED!!! I have pics

Hey guys I still need to do some little work like fix the t rex fuel pump cause it is leaking at the fitting because Vortech doesnt know how to seal a fuel pump:nonono: anyway I drove the car and to do some tweaking and finally got it to make boost. When I nailed it in 2nd it roasted the tires and the boost gauge only said 8-9 pounds of boost. Why is that? The kit out of the box is suppose to make 8-10. But I also have the UPR power pipe to add another 2 psi. I was told because my engine breathes so well (ie heads, intake, exhaust) that it is harder to get psi higher, but I dont know anyway here are some pics of the install.
 

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Hey guys I still need to do some little work like fix the t rex fuel pump cause it is leaking at the fitting because Vortech doesnt know how to seal a fuel pump:nonono: anyway I drove the car and to do some tweaking and finally got it to make boost. When I nailed it in 2nd it roasted the tires and the boost gauge only said 8-9 pounds of boost. Why is that? The kit out of the box is suppose to make 8-10. But I also have the UPR power pipe to add another 2 psi. I was told because my engine breathes so well (ie heads, intake, exhaust) that it is harder to get psi higher, but I dont know anyway here are some pics of the install.
 

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Hey guys I still need to do some little work like fix the t rex fuel pump cause it is leaking at the fitting because Vortech doesnt know how to seal a fuel pump:nonono: anyway I drove the car and to do some tweaking and finally got it to make boost. When I nailed it in 2nd it roasted the tires and the boost gauge only said 8-9 pounds of boost. Why is that? The kit out of the box is suppose to make 8-10. But I also have the UPR power pipe to add another 2 psi. I was told because my engine breathes so well (ie heads, intake, exhaust) that it is harder to get psi higher, but I dont know anyway here are some pics of the install.

i wouldnt really count on the power pipe adding a while lot of boost. some people it adds some, somt it doesnt. i only noticed a 1 psi gain on the top end. and i wouldnt really worry about what boost its making its its boosting 8-9 psi thats great!. you cant really go by the numbers

whats going to determine boost levels is how good your engine is breathing to start with. compare a bone stock engine to a built HCI engine. take the same blower with the same blower speed say a stock s trim. on the stock engine it will make more boost, and will pick up alot of power. it could make say 10 psi

take the HCI engine it will make boost but maybe not as much, it could make only 8-9 psi. this isnt bad at all. it means the engine is pulling more CFM on its own and the blower wont be able to cause such a big pressure build up since the engine is more effiecient and it moving more air. the engine will pick up lots of power and wont be getting as high of intake air temps. rememeber that pressurizing air causes heat. IMO the biggest changes you will see are when you change the CID of the engine, just changing heads with just bigger ports, while yes it does increase the size of the intake tract i dont think it makes maybe a few psi difference. when you increase the volume in the cylinder that makes a huge boost difference assuming your running the same blower you did before. so stroking your engine to 347 from 302 will decrease boost levels


in theory putting 14.7(atmospheric pressure) psi of boost on an engine will be twice the airflow the given engine pulls in under normally aspirated. but to do heat losses since the air heats up under pressure it could take 15-17 psi to truly see the 100% power gain with no intercooling. but IMO running anything past 12 psi, and intercooler or some method of air charge cooling ( IC or water/meth injection) will greatly benefit the engine. you can throw massive amounts of boost at and engine but the air will heat up once you start running alot of pressure. you get to a point where there are diminshing returns and then to the point where the heat starts cancelling out the effect of the boost.

and also remember 14.7 psi on a honda engine and 14.7 psi on a SBF and 14.7 on a big block chevy are all going to be very different CFM ratings.

take the s trim that you have throw it on a honda 1.6 l and it will make alot more boost than what it makes on your car.

take it and throw it on a 454 it will make less boost.

ultimately your goal is to run as much boost as possible while keeping the incoming air charge as cool as possible all while keeping within the mechanical limits of the engine. if it were easy we would all be running 50psi + like top fuel car lol but thats not the case.
 
Well that sucks I spent ALOT of money to get boost and it isnt making much. Last time I ran it the gauge only showed 5 psi. THATS HORRIBLE. I am getting it tuned as soon as I get the 42s and a matching MAF sensor. I am hoping after a tune I will see a HUGE power gain. I mean my motor does flow REALLY REALLLY well so I can see why my boost would be down, but does that mean the supercharger is almost just for looks then? that sucks
 
Well that sucks I spent ALOT of money to get boost and it isnt making much. Last time I ran it the gauge only showed 5 psi. THATS HORRIBLE. I am getting it tuned as soon as I get the 42s and a matching MAF sensor. I am hoping after a tune I will see a HUGE power gain. I mean my motor does flow REALLY REALLLY well so I can see why my boost would be down, but does that mean the supercharger is almost just for looks then? that sucks


i agree the blower should make more than 5 psi on your combo.

in your other topic you mentioned it did make 8-10 at the start, that seems about right. you said it stared going down. i'm betting something mechanical is happening. odds are your bleeding boost off. make sure there are no vac leaks( can be hard to hear with the blower whine) and also make sure your not boosting the crankcase. with my blower i had to do away with the PCV and run open breathers to keep my dipstick from popping out.

dont worry you will get it sorted out, you cant just bolt this stuff on and expect 100% from it from the get go, you have to work out some bugs.

when i put my kit on i mis routed my PCV bypass kit, i was bleeding boost off to infront of the air filter. it ran alot better but it didnt start making boost until the higher rpms. i got all that sorted out and it CAME ALIVE.

also mention in yout other topic was the belt. you have it pretty tight. the vortech bracket it pretty thin, when i put my blower belt on i get a big cheater and tighten it to where it starts bending the bracket, thats plenty tight, a slipping belt will not make as much boost.

EDIT, i just saw in your first pic. you need to take the line off that connects the TB to the oil filler neck, your bleeding boost into the crank case. you need to cap those off and run your PCV valve somewhere in front of the blower. or just cap it off and run open breathers.
 
Well that sucks I spent ALOT of money to get boost and it isnt making much. Last time I ran it the gauge only showed 5 psi. THATS HORRIBLE. I am getting it tuned as soon as I get the 42s and a matching MAF sensor. I am hoping after a tune I will see a HUGE power gain. I mean my motor does flow REALLY REALLLY well so I can see why my boost would be down, but does that mean the supercharger is almost just for looks then? that sucks

Lose the fmu and get it tuned.I went from 335rwhp to 459rwhp with 8lbs.
 
i agree the blower should make more than 5 psi on your combo.

in your other topic you mentioned it did make 8-10 at the start, that seems about right. you said it stared going down. i'm betting something mechanical is happening. odds are your bleeding boost off. make sure there are no vac leaks( can be hard to hear with the blower whine) and also make sure your not boosting the crankcase. with my blower i had to do away with the PCV and run open breathers to keep my dipstick from popping out.

dont worry you will get it sorted out, you cant just bolt this stuff on and expect 100% from it from the get go, you have to work out some bugs.

when i put my kit on i mis routed my PCV bypass kit, i was bleeding boost off to infront of the air filter. it ran alot better but it didnt start making boost until the higher rpms. i got all that sorted out and it CAME ALIVE.

also mention in yout other topic was the belt. you have it pretty tight. the vortech bracket it pretty thin, when i put my blower belt on i get a big cheater and tighten it to where it starts bending the bracket, thats plenty tight, a slipping belt will not make as much boost.

EDIT, i just saw in your first pic. you need to take the line off that connects the TB to the oil filler neck, your bleeding boost into the crank case. you need to cap those off and run your PCV valve somewhere in front of the blower. or just cap it off and run open breathers.

cool deal. I will do that. Can't you just unplug your PCV and let it hang there sucking air or is that a bad idea
 
Well that sucks I spent ALOT of money to get boost and it isnt making much. Last time I ran it the gauge only showed 5 psi. THATS HORRIBLE. I am getting it tuned as soon as I get the 42s and a matching MAF sensor. I am hoping after a tune I will see a HUGE power gain. I mean my motor does flow REALLY REALLLY well so I can see why my boost would be down, but does that mean the supercharger is almost just for looks then? that sucks

Stop focusing on boost so much. Just because the needle isn't pointing to 10 doesn't mean it's making power.

Boost is pressure, and to make pressure you need resistance. On a stock 5.0 with restrictive intake and heads there is a lot of resistance to build pressure against and boost levels rise.

With your setup, you have less restriction since your intake and heads offer better flow. As a result, your low boost numbers are a result of air moving very efficiently through your engine.

If you really want to build higher boost levels, you'll need a smaller pulley to force air in faster. Faster flowing air will meet more resistance and boost will rise.

But you really shouldn't focus on what PSI you are running at. Instead, get a dyno tune and see what numbers are put out at the wheels..not on your pillar gauge
 
Stop focusing on boost so much. Just because the needle isn't pointing to 10 doesn't mean it's making power.

Boost is pressure, and to make pressure you need resistance. On a stock 5.0 with restrictive intake and heads there is a lot of resistance to build pressure against and boost levels rise.

With your setup, you have less restriction since your intake and heads offer better flow. As a result, your low boost numbers are a result of air moving very efficiently through your engine.

If you really want to build higher boost levels, you'll need a smaller pulley to force air in faster. Faster flowing air will meet more resistance and boost will rise.

But you really shouldn't focus on what PSI you are running at. Instead, get a dyno tune and see what numbers are put out at the wheels..not on your pillar gauge

Well I mean the main reason I am worried cause I want the SC to do what it is suppose to do and when I see those numbers it kinda bugs me. I see 5 psi and to me thats almost like not running a SC at all