Progress Thread Hoopty v2.0 - It All Snowballed

HotFox said:

Yeah I did the notching and swapping and never installed those "bandaid" anti piss and moan brackets. Never noticed a noise during braking although my car is far from quiet... especially since it has team Z upper and lowers there is no ISO bushings.

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TOOLOW91 said:

Ditto I haven’t had them ever.

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I think my Brembos moan when you first back the car out of the garage, but never noticed any noise either.

AeroCoupe said:

Sounds like most of the cost can be offset by selling the existing axles and brackets.

The $1000 question is did the wheel guys take responsibility for the F up or ???

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Sorry, I missed this. Still working on that part. The sales guy said he forwarded all of my info to BC, and I believe him after the screenshots he sent during the process. I think it was an honest mistake somewhere, but I'm still looking for a little bit of help from them. Off the shelf wheels you'd expect something to not be 100% to your liking but custom ordered stuff should fir 100%

Wheel update.

I've been messaging the guy I ordered the wheels through for the past few weeks/month and never really got anywhere. I've been too busy to really pursue it with any seriousness until today. I dug up the original email I sent to him with ALL of the measurements on it, sent it to the guy at BC forged and copied in the dude I ordered them through.

Within minutes, BC forged called me to talk about it, said they never received all the info I had sent to the guy. Had they seen that, something would have changed. At any rate, they're committed to making it right, one way or another.

So, this evening Im going to go test fit a fox-length axle in there and see how the wheel fits in the wheel tub. If the axles work, they're going to reimburse those costs. If not, they're going to look into ordering me new barrels with the correct offset.

Also, the car still wont start. I replaced the relay and the starter solenoid on the mini starter is acting funny. A new Chinesium mini starter was $63 on Amazon and will be here tomorrow.

Wife and kid are gone for the weekend, so Im going to grill a steak and go swap an axle in later tonight. I havent done a late night wrech-a-thon in a while. Im excited!

If anyone guessed that I had the steak, got lazy, and sat on the couch, you'd be correct, haha - headed out now for attempt #2.

If it were 10 years ago, Id have been all over it. Now if its past 8pm, odds are it aint gonna happen

Alright, driver side fox-length axle is in. This is a MUCH better fitment, the axle can cycle up and down without fear of immediately hitting the fender. The problem now is the caliper brackets. Mine are OE cobra, Id rather not cut them up. Need to find aftermarket pieces.

I'm impatient by nature and those of you who have been around a while are probably rolling your eyes. I went ahead and chopped the brackets and got it all back together. It's a million times better in both fitment and aesthetics.




I would have LOVED to have driven it yesterday, but the fkn thing still wont start. I bought a cheap starter off Amazon and tossed it in and nope. (should have just bench tested the old one) and it has a new relay. So, the only other thing I can think of is the ignition switch? I traced all the wiring out and it's fine also.

Lastly, the valve train is still noisier than it should be, so I wanna bounce a couple things off y'all -
- When setting lash, it should be done on a warm or cold engine?
- When setting preload, I go to 0 lash and then a quarter or half turn past that?

AeroCoupe said:

Lash can be set on a cold motor but a warm one is easier. Zero lash then it can be anywhere from 1/4 to 3/4 turn. I’ve always run 1/2 turn on the motor sport lifter on the Coupe.

You know this but make sure you are on the heal or base circle of the cam lobe when they are being set. Just covering my ass here.

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I have been setting the I/E valves with the piston at TDC, and using the rotor pointing at the pole on the dist cap as an indicator. I could be wrong there!

bird_dog0347 said:

When you say it won't start, does it crank but not fire? No crank at all? Fuel pump turn on?

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Does everything it's supposed to do but engage the starter. I can take a wire and jumper the poles on the solenoid in the fender well so it starts. So, that means to me the switch in the steering column is not sending the voltage to the solenoid.