Hot front brakes after open track session

Thanks for all the advice!

So - to answer some of your posts:

- Rotors are slotted, but not cross-drilled

- Pads are what SSBC calls 'high performance' - whatever that means... They perform reasonably well when cold, so they're obviously not a full race pad. They were marked 'green stuff' or 'green guy' or 'green goop' (lol) or something like that (sorry, it's been a year or so - pretty sure it was 'green' something). One of my friends seemed to recognize the brand, although I'm sure I'm getting the name wrong.

- SSBC responded and said not to use DOT5, unless the seals in the master cylinder were changed. Apparently, the seal swell and ultimately fail when used with DOT5 for any length of time. I didn't ask specifically about DOT4, but I suspect that wouldn't be a problem. The post about DOT 5.1 is interesting - never heard of it, but will do a little research.

- The car has 17" wheels, so upgrading the brake size wouldn't be a problem, except to my wallet.

A question about air ducts to the brakes, whether it's the Cobra Automotive-style setup, or Historic's plumbing solution: Where to pick up the incoming air? Shelby did it in the front valence panel - is that what works best? Other options? :banana:
 
The "green stuff" are prolly the EBC pads. EBC makes pretty good stuff.

RE: fluid, DOT 4 and 3 are compatible, IIRC.

RE: ductwork, I pick up air for my ducts through the old headlight buckets, since my car is not street-driven (except during the day :D ) For owners who want to keep their headlights, Ive seen setups that use the front turn-signal holes also, although those openings are smaller, obviously. You can also put rectangular air scoops under the front valance if you are careful about ground clearances and such.

Additional cooling air to the rotor is one of the best, lowest-cost ways to help your brakes. :flag: