how hard to do springs?

GTPhreak

Founding Member

Mar 16, 2000

5,505

0

77

Rowlett, TEXAS

Jun 2, 2004

#1

• Jun 2, 2004

• #1

Picked up a set of c-springs. How hard will the install be? I have done it before on a fox, is it different on an sn95?

 

maypo59

New Member

Oct 20, 2003

194

0

0

Central Kentucky

Jun 2, 2004

#2

• Jun 2, 2004

• #2

Same same, maybe easier on SN95, or maybe just seemed so since it was the third time I have done them...

 

R

rudeone707

New Member

May 17, 2003

1,829

0

0

Fairfield, Ca

Jun 2, 2004

#3

• Jun 2, 2004

• #3

not hard at all, i did mine like 2 months ago and it too like an hour and a half.

 

chefster

New Member

May 24, 2004

426

1

0

michigan

Jun 2, 2004

#4

• Jun 2, 2004

• #4

C SPRINGS

WHAT MADE YOU GO WITH C SPRINGS AND WHAT DO YOU EXPECT FROM THEM

 

GTPhreak

Founding Member

Mar 16, 2000

5,505

0

77

Rowlett, TEXAS

Jun 2, 2004

#5

• Jun 2, 2004

• #5

I got them because the guy I bought them from was selling them for about halfprice, and they were only on his car for about 200 miles. plus i like the stiffer spring rates they provide. I expect the ride to be a bit stiffer and the car be more firmly planted

 

F

fiveohh94gt

New Member

Dec 26, 2003

277

0

0

Jun 2, 2004

#6

• Jun 2, 2004

• #6

the front springs might take an hour or two, but the backs will go on it about 10 minutes, pretty easy job

 

89 blue lx

Founding Member

Nov 18, 2001

1,936

0

37

FSU in tallahassee GO SEMINOLES!

Jun 2, 2004

#7

• Jun 2, 2004

• #7

easy as pie check out mustang world.com i followed those and it took no time

 

rio95

Member

Nov 18, 2003

829

1

17

Grand Rapids, MI

Jun 2, 2004

#8

• Jun 2, 2004

• #8

it is really easy. you'll get it.

p.s. make sure you don't put any isolators in.

 

F

fiveohh94gt

New Member

Dec 26, 2003

277

0

0

Jun 2, 2004

#9

• Jun 2, 2004

• #9

rio95, why do u say NOT to put the isolators in?

 

89 blue lx

Founding Member

Nov 18, 2001

1,936

0

37

FSU in tallahassee GO SEMINOLES!

Jun 2, 2004

#10

• Jun 2, 2004

• #10

yeah can you say squeak?

 

rio95

Member

Nov 18, 2003

829

1

17

Grand Rapids, MI

Jun 2, 2004

#11

• Jun 2, 2004

• #11

trust me, ask anyone. don't do it. I just experienced c springs in person. They are an awesome spring, but the isolators should stay out so you will get enough drop for it to look good and be worthwhile. They really aren't needed, and they will take away another 3/8 in. drop. We saw roughly a 1.25in drop all around without isolators and it looked good. Anything less and you will prob. be disappointed.

 

rio95

Member

Nov 18, 2003

829

1

17

Grand Rapids, MI

Jun 2, 2004

#12

• Jun 2, 2004

• #12

they prob. won't squeek. its really not that big of a deal to take them out. Do a c spring search and you will see that almost everyone that has them doesn't use isolators. If it bothers you that much, just get supersports and leave the isolators in, but since you got these for around $50 then just put them in and be happy.

 

S

slytherin

New Member

Apr 5, 2004

702

1

0

northeast ohio

Jun 3, 2004

#13

• Jun 3, 2004

• #13

make sure you have a good breaker bar and some penatrating lube and a hammer for the lower strut nuts and bolts mine were a real bear to get off. I agree with rio my tokico's didn't sit right in front compared to the rear with the isolators in so i had to tear it apart 2weeks ago. I took the top isolator out completely and put some clear hose(from home depot the wall thickness of the new hose is only an 1/8 in compared to the OG"s near 1/2in) on the bottom of the coil(just to prevent rust). doing that got the car to sit level instead of the nose high stance it had. I have had no squeaks but it does seem to transmit a little more road noise no biggy though with a loud car.

 

Venom351R

Founding Member

Apr 27, 2002

4,548

41

98

MAINE

Jun 3, 2004

#14

• Jun 3, 2004

• #14

rio95 said:

they prob. won't squeek. .

Click to expand...

Yeah they will squeek, its metal on metal, how will it not?. I left my Isolators in


Give the C Springs some time, they will settle and the car will look better. Once I brought mine out from sitting all winter I noticed a diffrence from the way it looked before after it sat for awhile

 

R

rudeone707

New Member

May 17, 2003

1,829

0

0

Fairfield, Ca

Jun 3, 2004

#15

• Jun 3, 2004

• #15

slytherin said:

make sure you have a good breaker bar and some penatrating lube and a hammer for the lower strut nuts and bolts mine were a real bear to get off. I agree with rio my tokico's didn't sit right in front compared to the rear with the isolators in so i had to tear it apart 2weeks ago. I took the top isolator out completely and put some clear hose(from home depot the wall thickness of the new hose is only an 1/8 in compared to the OG"s near 1/2in) on the bottom of the coil(just to prevent rust). doing that got the car to sit level instead of the nose high stance it had. I have had no squeaks but it does seem to transmit a little more road noise no biggy though with a loud car.

Click to expand...

you dont have to take off the lower strut nuts. Just leave the strut connected at the bottom and unbolt the top, the A-arm will come down enough and you should be able to just pop the spring out.

 

S

slytherin

New Member

Apr 5, 2004

702

1

0

northeast ohio

Jun 3, 2004

#16

• Jun 3, 2004

• #16

oh yeah, rudeone I forgot he was just doing springs I did the whole package.

 

K

KVacek

New Member

Jul 29, 2003

16

0

1

Chicago western suburbs

Jun 3, 2004

#17

• Jun 3, 2004

• #17

Maybe this should be a new thread, but here goes. I need to do ball joints, and I have a set of new take-off GT springs and struts to install at the same time. Haynes and Chilton say to use a spring compressor to get the spring out, but Rudeone's suggestion of dropping the top of the strut enough to get the spring out sounds easier and safer to me. Once the spring is out of the picture, it's straightforward to do the rest. What's the group's opinion?

 

rio95

Member

Nov 18, 2003

829

1

17

Grand Rapids, MI

Jun 3, 2004

#18

• Jun 3, 2004

• #18

It really depends on your car, but on my buddies car, we left the back isolators in only (b/c it is a vert) and has a perfect stance; almost level, but a little rack. it looks just right. i kept all the isolators in on my car and my front is still quite a bit lower than his without isolators. Also, i just got back from riding in his car all night and i didn't hear a single squeek the whole time.

 

K

KVacek

New Member

Jul 29, 2003

16

0

1

Chicago western suburbs

Jun 4, 2004

#19

• Jun 4, 2004

• #19

Are springs different between convertibles and coupes? I have a '94 GT convertible and just bought new takeoff GT springs, but Midwest Mustang didn't ask and I didn't specify whether it was a convertible.

 

maypo59

New Member

Oct 20, 2003

194

0

0

Central Kentucky

Jun 5, 2004

#20

• Jun 5, 2004

• #20

KVacek said:

Maybe this should be a new thread, but here goes. I need to do ball joints, and I have a set of new take-off GT springs and struts to install at the same time. Haynes and Chilton say to use a spring compressor to get the spring out, but Rudeone's suggestion of dropping the top of the strut enough to get the spring out sounds easier and safer to me. Once the spring is out of the picture, it's straightforward to do the rest. What's the group's opinion?

Click to expand...

Spring compressor is the SAFER way to go. But, I used one on the first set I did, and, what a PITA!! the last 2 sets I did, I just let the arm down with a floor jack after undoing the strut bolt on top. Then just lever them out. Make SURE the floor jack is in place BEFORE you take off the strut bolt. BTW, you may need to use an impact wrench to unscrew the strut mount bolt. It's not under a lot of presure, but you have to spin it faster than the strut rod can spin....