How Much Hp Gain Will I Get From Gt40 Intake And 65mm Throttle Body?

A friends car went from 13.8s to 13.4s with a Trick Flow intake, 65mm tb, E cam, lightly ported E7s, and headers. Completely stock valve springs with 100k miles on them. The valves springs didn’t float.
Car dynoed in the low 220s with a after market MAF, pullies, H pipe and mufflers. When he added the above is dynoed in the low 250s.
He later added Edelbrock heads and it dynoed in the low 280s.
My understanding is the .498” lift on the E cam makes in the only one that can be used with stock heads.
That being said there are tons of reasons to not run a E cam. Also if you’re going through all the trouble of pulling it down at least pick up a set of GT40s as they are dirt cheap now and a good improvement over the E7s.
 
E303 is specified as needing 120lbs seat pressure and 295lbs open. Stock E7 valve springs are ~80lbs on the seat and ~225lbs open. There are always exceptions to every rule, but it sounds like you're buddy got lucky. I know quite a few people back in the day that kissed pistons when running an E303 on stock E7 springs. Lift isn't so much as important on a stock E7 head as is duration. This helps overcome the crappy exhaust port design, but not much.
 
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I did Cobra intake and 65mm TB on my stock engine (with exhaust) years ago, and could swear it gave me a nice boost about 3500RPM.

My car was an AOD at the time. Only mods were Cobra intake, 65mm TB, pullies, headers, stock h-pipe and cat-back flows and 3.73's. Good ole speed density. My best runs were 14.1-14.2 @ 97?MPH with the AOD.
 
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E303 is specified as needing 120lbs seat pressure and 295lbs open. Stock E7 valve springs are ~80lbs on the seat and ~225lbs open. There are always exceptions to every rule, but it sounds like you're buddy got lucky. I know quite a few people back in the day that kissed pistons when running an E303 on stock E7 springs. Lift isn't so much as important on a stock E7 head as is duration. This helps overcome the crappy exhaust port design, but not much.
He might have been lucky. We did try some 1.7 RRs on it with the E cam and they floated like crazy above 5200 RPMs.
 
I did Cobra intake and 65mm TB on my stock engine (with exhaust) years ago, and could swear it gave me a nice boost about 3500RPM.

My car was an AOD at the time. Only mods were Cobra intake, 65mm TB, pullies, headers, stock h-pipe and cat-back flows and 3.73's. Good ole speed density. My best runs were 14.1-14.2 @ 97?MPH with the AOD.
I ran a Cobra Intake with a 65mm TB with shorty headers for about a year before adding AFR heads and I agree 100%. I could feel a significant difference above 3500RPMs. It wasn’t huge like adding the heads, but it didn’t feel like it fell on its face so fast either.
 
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My first engine combo was a 240k stock block, heads, cam with 1.7RRs, untouched Explorer intakes, injectors and 65mm TB modded for a Mustang, fuel pressure set at 32 psi with engine off, C&L 73 MAF, equal length shorty headers with full MAC 2.5" exhaust with aftermarket cats. I had electric fans, stock AOD and converter with Lentech VB and 3.73 gears. Rear tires are a 255/50/16 street tire.

On a marked piece of road I was consistent at 155 km/h (96 mph) through the 1/4 at 4600 RPM (the math works out to 96 mph). That was leaving at idle and manually shifting at 5500 rpm.

Easily the biggest single power gain was from the electric fans. I have read and believe it to be 15-20 hp is freed up.



Current combo is a stock block, GT40s with smoothed ports intake and exhaust, same intake manifolds, 70mm TB, 1.7RR, Crower 15512 cam, C&L 76 MAF, still with Explorer injectors. Same exhaust, trans, gears and tires. On same road now finishes 1/4 at 165 km/h (102 mph) at 4900 RPM still leaving at idle and shifting at 5500 RPM. I have a set of 24 lbs injectors and different calibration tube for swap at some point.

I now have a dual wideband on the car and at WOT and am very rich at 10.2. Fuel pressure set to 35 psi with engine off. Going to reduce fuel pressure a bit and start to tune with my PMS shortly (currently set to stock or no change settings).

I am hoping the speed number will pick up to 170-175 km/h (105-109 mph) that would put RPMs at 5100-5200.
 
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The e cam has been in since i bought it. He didnt mention springs, i didnt know it was quite that necessary. I havent noticed anything. Its worked so far, under 5-5500.

Ya, i gotta drill/tap the explorer or get it done, port the thing, rebuild the injectors (assuming eazy peezy there). Im no rush to put it on, other then i just want matching maf/injectors. Lol. I might be able to sqz in some gt40 heads.

Everyone in houston wants $300 for gt40p's.

What EGR spacer should i use?
 
Electric fans WILL require upgrade to 3G (130 amp) alternator. Many threads on what should be done with wiring. For me, I used a cable from a Windstar/Freestar that goes from alternator post right to battery positive. Simply clip off Freestar battery clamp and install a ring connector and attach to battery side of starter solenoid. Nice heavy gauge, its the right length and dirt cheap at wreckers. Some other wire changes for the connector into alt, but not too serious.

The biggest thing (and most debated) is how you control the fans. Some choose aftermarket controllers, some (like myself) went OEM parts and relay control (like the factory did), others simple toggle switch and a good temp gauge to make sure you get an accurate temp of the system. Whatever control system you go with I suggest that the temp probe (for aftermarket controllers), temp switch (for relay control) or temp gauge probe (for toggles) be in the lower rad hose. Why... Having temperature reading after the rad lets the rad do its thing. When it can't keep up on its own the fans need to come on. The only place to take the temp reading and accomplish this is in the discharge side of the rad (drive side rad tank or lower rad hose). Any point in the engine (likely intake or heater hoses) or upper rad hose is a reading of engine temperature, not coolant temperature. The thermostat controls engine temp, not the rad.

Sorry, I will get off my soap box now. I just find it difficult to read threads where owners are being pointed in the direction of systems that cost hundreds to thousands of dollars (price a 4 core aluminum rad, aftermarket dual electric fans, aftermarket fan controller). I am about to put 2010 F150 electric fans into my DD 2004 F150 Supercrew 4x4 and I am going to use the wiring and control system from a Contour as the basis. I got my fan for $35. Relay panel and wiring from a Contour 4-cyl (another former DD) - free, but would only be $10-20 at most pull-a-parts. Same dual speed fan switch and pigtail from a VW - $3 I think. I am going to add the thermo resistor from a Contour Fan to make F150 dual speed and control it same as I did my Mustang. The only challenge for the enthusiast who doesn't fabricate their own parts is the mount for the fan switch in the lower rad hose. Easiest way I can come up with is get a spindle nut from a Contour (M22x1.5 thread - same thread as the fan switch) and weld it to a piece of 1.5" pipe. Cut about 1-1.5" of lower rad hose, insert pipe, clamp and seal everything and now switch is in place. The rest is some basic wiring. So for potentially $50-60 you have a fan system that operates the way the factory designed it (although in a different car). I have had 3 Contour DD's with a total of over 700,000 km (about 450,000 miles) and not one failure of the relay based fan control system.

There will be haters of everything out there, I'm a K.I.S.S. guy. And why mess with a design that is not broken.

Again, sorry for the rant and potentially derailing the thread. If anyone wants more details, there is a thread here on this site where I detailed my Mustang system. I can always provide more details if desired. Enjoy your evening.
 
Na, good info. Appreciate it. Ya i kinda hijacked the old thread. Lol. Ill def. Go the cheapest, solid but savvy route. I'll read up on it sometime. Was on my list to do sometime but not a priority yet.