Might be a dumb question, but how do I set TDC?
I've heard of putting your finger in the #1 spark plug hole and cranking , etc., but how do you crank it? W/ a deep socket on the crank pulley? By hand? What's the step-by step?
Thanks,
Jeremy
Checking out your sig, and in my opinion, I would wait till you do your head swap, borrow or purchase a degree wheel and a piston stop,and follow the instructions and do it that way. Comp cams and Crane have it listed step by step on their websites. You'll have to pull the timing cover to get it, but then at least you'll know where TDC really is, and can adjust your timing pointer to match the TDC marks on your balancer. Mine was off, by a significant amount, and I had to get an adjustable timing pointer.
If your just setting a dist, yea, you can stick your finger in the hole and have a biddy turn it over with the starter until you feel compression building, then I just turn it easy with a deep socket and ratchet to get it on the mark. It's tough to hit it exactly where you want it with the starter doing the work.
If you know someone who has one, (any local engine builder should) they may let you borrow it, and maybe give you a quick lesson on using it. You may end up biting the bullet and buying a degree wheel kit if you want to get everything perfect on you build up. They're a little expensive, but worth it if you plan on participating in this expensive hobby for a long time..... It's great to learn it however, you'll be a smarter hot rodder and learn more about the iternal workings of a motor. If you can do basic math, you can use a degree wheel. Summit and jegs have a few kits in their catalogs, and I know Mr. Gasket makes a cheap little degree wheel that you may find at Autozone or some place like that, but you'll still need a piston stop. There are 2 different piston stops you can pick from, one to use with the head off, or one the head on.
Yea, they are mostly for degreeing cams, but you can't degree a cam properly without finding TDC first. Once you find TDC, you can quit there and assemble the rest of your engine...........or you can go ahead and run the cam also. If you're going to change cams, this would be a good idea, but if you're keeping the stock cam, I wouldn't worry about it. Finding the exact specs of that cam will be your job with the degree wheel. I don't think anyone can furnish you with the exact stock cam specs, since I believe Ford used a couple slightly different grinds in the 5.0HO years. I may be wrong, if someone else knows, maybe they can chime in here.
I would just locate TDC, make sure your balancer marks agree with your pointer, check your valve train geometry, piston/valve clearance, and put it together once your happy with everything.
However..........depending on the mileage of the motor, you may wanna change your timing chain. Don't want to assemble those nice heads and have the chain fail and bust a valve with a piston........ And since you have the front end opened up, what the hell, get a degree wheel and learn something!
It would be cheap insurance that's for sure! I would approach this project in this fashion: take off the your old heads and intake, remove front cover, but leave old chain on. Lay on the pass. head, no gakset, just a couple bolts to hold it tight to the block, follow instructions with your degree wheel to find TDC. Then, remove the old chain trying not to move anything to much, pop on the new one, recheck your TDC, making sure the dots on your timing gears line up. Slide on your balancer once it's all hunky dory, and bolt the timing pointer to the block and see if the pointer hits where the TDC mark is on the balancer. If it's on, your set, if it's off, you can either bend the old one or trim it to line up, or just go with an adjustable one.