I Have some 5.0 questions please

[1badsuv]

Hi
I have a 5.0 pushrod based 347 stroker in my 1998 mountaineer.
It has been running on the stock tune-but I finally have a wideband commander, an xcal, and a guy to tune me--yesssss!
So, to get this engine ready-or, to be sure it is I have taken the intake manifold off to check lifters, guides and rocker arms-she hasn't been over 5200 rpms yet-but it will soon. I deo have the x cam-but revs are limited due to the stock tune-

question--

I have a Typhoon intake-based on the 94-95 mustang configuration-on the rear of the lower plennum are 2 coolant crossover tubes--
My Mountaineer (explorer) engine had a metal coolant bypass line setup going to the heater core-and, the stock explorer intake also had 2 smaller lines running from it to this bypass line-attached through 2 nipples --
I'm not running any coolant into the upper intake -but I am using the lower crossover tubes attached to the 2 smaller nipples in the bypass tube--
Is this ok?

Also-
I am using Edelbrock's efi 5.0 heads-which have egr ports as mustangs were internal egr-
I wish to keep the egr-as I moderate on another forum and wish to not only do my part-but go to great lengths to set a good example-
This is why I will also be using cats in my exhaust-

soooooo-to keep the egr-
The Mountaineer (explorer) has an external egr with DPFE sensor setup-
How do I block the internal egr ports of the heads-and the center intake port-as my egr is actually drawn in through an egr tube on my Bank 1 header--to an egr valve, which is vacuum controlled and sits on the 45dgreee egr elbow-
I'm using the stock explorer pcm with and running ok.
Is the egr blocked by the use of the 45 degree elbow? I noticed the intake side of the heads also had this egr port-and also noticed the new gasket set has a block off gasket---

ALSO

since I am in here-
The engine is built with studs-
should I re torque my head nuts. This engine has about 10k on the build-nice and easy 10k miles-
If so-should I re torque them to 85 upper 80 lower?


ALSO
I need a couple of fuel lines to replace the rigid chrome explorer type-I'd like 2 flex lines-

What size are the fittings? They are the spring clip type-you know-the kind that needs the special tool
I will gladly trade these for some simple ones------

I'm trying to supply an aeromotive fuel rail setup--I have the block and the rails all plumbed --just need a more flexible supply to the block- and return to the fitting in the wheel well-


ALSO

Thanks for reading this, and thanks in advance for your answer--

 

[1badsuv]

Did I post this in the wrong forum?
If a moderator thinks this should go elsewhere, please feel free to move it--

 

[timeless2]

No, you're fine. Give it a day or two to simmer.

 

[1badsuv]

Seriously guys--I need help. I can't believe there are no responses to this--



I do need to put this thing back together you know--

 

[timeless2]

Moved for hits. Good luck.

 

[iwashmycar]

the only thing i can try and answer is the first question. I assume you just connected the two togeather to bypass the intake. That works fine

 

[1badsuv]

Thanks iwashmycar--

Any other opinions-answers to the other questions?

 

[1badsuv]

Hi!
I really need to bolt my lower intake on today guys.

 

[kevin2m4]

those are some tough questions? do you have any pics of the setup to generate interest in the project and for us to visualise your problems better?

 

[RsStanG1987]

The mustangs have a bar that goes acrss the back of the heads for smog if thats what you mean by egr ports. You can just put the bar on and cap it..

 

[PUNISHER RACING]

ok here we go: no coolat to the t.b. is o.k. you can do that just cut the nipples off bypass tube and braze shut plug intake holes etc.
use you block off gaskets for the lower intake gaskets plug the front and back of heads off
no retorque
russell make hard line to -an adapters use -6an from adapters to rails

 

[cjones]

punisher said it all.

did you post this on explorer forums?? because i didn't see it there.

BTW, i'm cjones101812 over there