Electrical I smell hot wires

[Bullitt347]

Here is a 82' GT that sold for $45K at Mecum yesterday in Houston.

1982 Ford Mustang GT at Houston 2024 as F240 - Mecum Auctions

1982 Ford Mustang GT crossing the auction block at Houston 2024 as F240.

www.mecum.com

 

[Mustang5L5]

So have I , what I have seen are parts built from different facilities that are not comparable.....

I couldn’t tell you where they are made. I do know ford has changed vendors on some parts, but my assumption is they change all of production over and then you have residual stock that gets used up.

But it’s all the same part number so not sure how the vendors would track that, nor if they have the bandwidth to.

My guess would be these ignition modules are all made overseas now. What is oriellys return policy? If it’s divided by decent (and hopefully they have free shipping or something) perhaps you can order one to check out with the intention of returning if?

It’s also on Amazon for $31, but I have gotten fake parts from Amazon. At least their return policy is good.

I guess it all depends on how deep you want to dive into looking into this.

 

[limp]

I couldn’t tell you where they are made. I do know ford has changed vendors on some parts, but my assumption is they change all of production over and then you have residual stock that gets used up.

But it’s all the same part number so not sure how the vendors would track that, nor if they have the bandwidth to.

My guess would be these ignition modules are all made overseas now. What is oriellys return policy? If it’s divided by decent (and hopefully they have free shipping or something) perhaps you can order one to check out with the intention of returning if?

It’s also on Amazon for $31, but I have gotten fake parts from Amazon. At least their return policy is good.

I guess it all depends on how deep you want to dive into looking into this.

The OReillys is 2 miles from my home that has it in stock... I thought about driving over to it and asking if I can look at it... IF its Made in the USA, I might buy it??? Retired guys have to think up things to do.... To old to chase women or drink anymore.....
My first thought has been to buy a $13 one to install to see if its my problem....
Think I would trust RA over Amazon for fakes.....

 

[limp]

I couldn’t tell you where they are made. I do know ford has changed vendors on some parts, but my assumption is they change all of production over and then you have residual stock that gets used up.

But it’s all the same part number so not sure how the vendors would track that, nor if they have the bandwidth to.

My guess would be these ignition modules are all made overseas now. What is oriellys return policy? If it’s divided by decent (and hopefully they have free shipping or something) perhaps you can order one to check out with the intention of returning if?

It’s also on Amazon for $31, but I have gotten fake parts from Amazon. At least their return policy is good.

I guess it all depends on how deep you want to dive into looking into this.

Are those the fasteners shown in the pic, that my car has? How are those fastened??

 

[Mustang5L5]

Are those the fasteners shown in the pic, that my car has? How are those fastened??

They are reverse (female) torx. I don’t know the size.

I have an old NOS ignition that happens to be one of the recalled units and it also comes with the screws.

Local hardware store might have a set.

 

[limp]

OK, thanks.. I get it now...

 

[nickyb]

Limp I got a ign. Switch a few years back at Oreilleys and it was cheap like $18 been great.
Also I zip tided the original switch and that worked till I changed it out, so maybe try that .

 

[limp]

Limp I got a ign. Switch a few years back at Oreilleys and it was cheap like $18 been great.
Also I zip tided the original switch and that worked till I changed it out, so maybe try that .

Took out my old one, pretty sure its original, its a ford part..
MIne is not falling apart at all, the plastic part is nice and snug into the metal part...
Might be a bad call on my part... Hope its burned out some contacts or something is touching inside due to its age....
Ended up getting the Amazon Motorcraft part, it will be delivered tomorrow between 4am-8am... The Oreilly motorcraft would of been over $80, this one will be $31.. If its some fake stuff it will go right back.....
Hope to find out if this will fix it.....
I will update this.....

 

[nickyb]

Hope it's the switch, cause looking for a pinched wire sucks,don't ask.

 

[limp]

Hope it's the switch, cause looking for a pinched wire sucks,don't ask.

Yeah, thats why I thought I would try this first.. Nothing but bad stories about fox body ign. switches on you tube....

 

[limp]

How cool is this.... After ordering this Motorcraft Switch Saturday afternoon from Amazon, I wake up at 6:30am Sunday ( God apparently does not let old men sleep in ) and there is my part delivered at my front gate..... To have done that with Rock Auto, it would have cost $130 just for the overnite delivery..

Part looks good, Made in Mexico on the box, and FoMoCo cast into the switch itself.... No screws though...
After I type this going to Depot, it they dont' have the screws/bolts my " local " Hdwe store opens at 10am....
Some pics.. Old one is black.. Guessing it must the original with the ford part # and the " breakaway" theft screws still on it..Unless a Ford dealer would reinstall a replacement with these same screws??
Will let everyone know if this fixes it later.....

View attachment 719346

 

[General karthief]

Don't toss the old one away.
You'll thank me later.

 

[Mustang5L5]

My car had the recall done and has the F2 part number. The screws on it were not those torx style screws. I got the car early in its life so I’d have to image the dealer was the last to touch it. Don’t recall the screws on it now though.

This is what I got with one of the old fire starter kits that I got off eBay before I realized what it was. Packaging has a 1987 date code

 

[limp]

Don't toss the old one away.
You'll thank me later.

I have been keeping everything taken off the car... I figure when some neighbor kid brings home a bare body, we can probably make it at least a roller again......

 

[limp]

UPDATE... No it didn't work.. No smells this time, but the wires got hot again..

So, I took off the tape on the wires going to the IS to feel which one is getting hot.. Its the red with light green stripe... It goes to the battery side of the coil... I found 2 connectors ( on the wiring diagram) it goes through before getting to the coil...

I guess follow this wire for any shorts or bad connections? with any luck I won't have to remove the dash to do this...

 

[85GTStangGuy]

Took out my old one....

What'd you end up using to get the screws out? Vice-grip?

 

[General karthief]

Looks like he used a chisel
Or his teeth

 

[FastDriver]

So, any chance it's in the blower motor circuit? I ask because I've melted the switch panel, and I noticed that my billet fan speed switch gets so hot when switched to 3 or 4 (highest fan speed) that it'll burn my fingers if I touch it for too long. When the switch was plastic, it melted the switch assembly and I had to replace it. Could just be too many amps through it.

 

[limp]

Looks like he used a chisel
Or his teeth

3 points for the general... I could not get a decent grip with the vice grips until I loosened it with a chisel...
I found some new screws in my " extra " bin...
And NO that does not mean old glass jars and cigar boxes.... Had enough of that with my Dad....

 

[limp]

OK, I think I might have this figured out... maybe, kinda....

The wire that is getting hot, is a resistance wire that goes from the ignition switch to the batt side of the coil... This was in the early models with the can coil on the intake manifold.. My understanding is the reduced voltage was to prevent the can coil from overheating and burning up the oil that was inside of it..

I pulled the wire off of my coil and no more hot wire when I turn the key on....... That tells me I do not have a short or bad connection.. Agreed?

I upgraded my car to the newer model coil that is mounted on the drivers side shock tower for multiple reasons, mainly because the feed lines of the new carburetor were in the way.... I remember the biggest concern in doing this was the resistor wire was going to limit the amount of voltage to the newer style coil that wants a full 12 volts...... Maybe this coil is trying to draw more voltage causing the resistance wire to get hot?? Any thoughts on this??

Read multiple stories on the tube about hot, resistance wires, from the " ignition switch to the coil" last night...

At this point my plan is to replace this resistance wire with a regular wire... If so, I will remove this resistor wire and replace it in the existing loom and through whatever connectors the stock wire goes through....

I " remembered" about the resistance wire when I was going over the wiring diagram I have and this wire has ( in the diagram ) a squiggly up and down area in it, I believe the universal sign for a resistor....
Could this resistor wire be the entire length ( ignition switch to coil) or is it more likely a small section of resistor wire in the circuit?? The wire seems to get hottest first where it attaches to the connector that plugs into the ignition switch?

Thanks all......