I'm still not fast enough! Help

[jasonh_86]

I know it's not a camaro, but I raced an LS1 Trans Am friday night out in town from a roll, going from 35-95 and we stayed dead even altho i messed up my shifting really badly.. i accidentally hit the rev limiter in 2nd and missed the shift into 3rd.. they got a head start, since they had an auto they just floored it while i had to downshift THEN put it to the floor. I pulled on it until i hit 6k rpms and then when i finally got it into 3rd we ran dead even, but it ended up tying (in my opinion) becuase their front bumper was even with my front wheels, maybe a few inches behind them.. we both had the windows down. I thought I would get my ass smoked..

 

[Torinalth]

aren't the mustang and the camaro pretty even with launching? they both have rediculous amounts of torque, i know the stang has a bit more, but wouldn't you say the stang is better against imports in the drag? I'd imagine a camaro race would be a drivers race off the line anyway...

I agree with the traction advice though

in my experiences i have to beat them off the line to work them to the ground. if i can launch it well enough i can typically get about a car and a half on them before they start to pull me in. just about every LS1 (except this one firehawk) i have gone against starts to put me to rest at around 70-80. once he hits that speed range I'm gone because of lack of power.... but this is a common trend i have found, even with someone else driving my car. the mustang unless it has the same power HAS to put the distance down in the beginning or you will be walked. so i push traction.

Eaton posi, and fatter rear shoes with a good supporting LCA will give you a massive edge that can make up for a good bit of power and hopefully increase the initial gap where its too much to be regained. that is how i can take down LS1s in my area at least. get the jump and pray he does not have the power to beat me to 100. plus the poster has already said he is having massive traction issues so that needs be addressed more then power at this point. he said he spins in third, and if it keeps up then the heads, cams, nitrous, and bowers that were suggested are worthless.

wider rear rims and tires, eaton posi, LCAs. also get axles if you can as with more traction comes more strain on the back.

Torinalth

 

[Chili]

You have Nitto DR's? You shouldn't be spinning that much if so. Make sure you are heating them properly and keep the PSI around 20 or less.

 

[BlackenedSVT]

plus the poster has already said he is having massive traction issues so that needs be addressed more then power at this point. he said he spins in third, and if it keeps up then the heads, cams, nitrous, and bowers that were suggested are worthless.

wider rear rims and tires, eaton posi, LCAs. also get axles if you can as with more traction comes more strain on the back.

Torinalth

I completely agree with you there

 

[crazykid2056]

Stock for Stock, the LS1 is almost a full second faster then the '99-04 GT. If we mod our cars enough, we shouldn't have to much of a problem with them.

 

[white96blown2v]

raise the compression ratio, cobra shortblock, pistons if going cheap,cams ,not to big to avoid ptv ,4.10 gear, tires. NOW it's a race!!!!

 

[D'SDOUBLEOGT]

What he is saying about the traction is that when i shift to third i still spin because i shift so hard. The spin is only for a breef second or less. I can pull one or two car lengths on a SS off the line every time but then they slowly come back. Maybe just as they get close to catching up I should let off and say I won!!

 

[big T]

Well I raced a stock SS Camaro and I didn’t do all that bad. I was dead even with him in first and then I shifted to second and pulled on him then slowly he pulled back. Gradually he kept pulling but only very slowly. WHAT do I need to beat a stock SS. I don’t know what mods other than what I have will make that happen. I don’t have the money for s/c and I don’t like to use the spray. They are N/A and that is the way I want to beat them. Any help would be great.

Poretd/polished heads, cams, at least midlength headers and a tune can net u abouy 60+rwhp, but itll set u back at least 3K+...just like a supercharger.

 

[JOHNS01GT]

You never said if the Nitto's were DR's or not. DR's with a built rear-end and you should beat him. I would definately say VT stage II cams and longtubes, they will bring up your average hp(which is important!!) and your peak significantly. Make sure you get a tune as well. After that you will stomp a mud-hole in him and walk him dry.

 

[300bhp/ton]

if i can launch it well enough i can typically get about a car and a half on them before they start to pull me in. just about every LS1 (except this one firehawk)

I might be wrong but I think the Firehawk had a variant of the LT1 with a factory rated 330bhp.

 

[Torinalth]

I might be wrong but I think the Firehawk had a variant of the LT1 with a factory rated 330bhp.

there one i am talking about is an LT1 firehawk.... but if i am not mistaken they also had the firehawk for a year in the LS1 body as a small change from the WS6.... but i cant be too certain on this.

back to the traction point. it does not matter what the reason is that you break traction in thirs, the issue is that it breaks. it does not matter if its a loud chirp or burning the tired to redline, either way you are losing traction thus losing time. some people done understand that, sure its nice to "display" power by breaking traction in a higher gear, but you are losing time when doing so. you should not break traction once till you are done, regardless of the reason, if you say you cant help it then you dont know how to drive your car. i agree its a vastly different mentality to work at making it slower to make it faster (using lesss power to maintain traction till the wheels have bit fully then unload), but unless you dont care about the effectiveness of your mods then you should take a look at your driving style as well.

Torinalth

 

[hotmustang331]

good advice


hotmustang331 your A/F ratio seems kinda high, and your rwhp rating seems low for "most of the bolt ons"...what do you have done?

Have the following

DR gas O/R X
Magnaflow CB
P&Pd trick flow plenum
electric waterpump
SCT-4 bank chip (prolly causing the lean condition)
frpp 3.73 gears
17x10.5 DD bullits W/ 285 kumhos
K&N filter with a custom made sealed ramair system

Those are the things that would effect RWHP.
My run was made in a shop at 1:20ish PM IN TEXAS LOL, humidity had to be a good 70-80%, and a good 70-75* in the shop, ramair still hooked up, NO airflow over the engine (they didnt have a fan), and with the heavy DD weels...its also well know that the gears reduce HP on a dyno...3.73s around 5-6. SO had I had 3.27s, stock tires, and at least airflow...it would have made well over 260RWHP. I think. I just read in a mag where they dynod an 05 GT, and they said when the did back to back runs with their 60MPH fan on and then off, it sometimes dropped 30RWHP with it off. So I am not sure how much that effected my runs either. And yea I was expecting a good 260-265RWHP, but i really didnt take into account all the things that were against me until later that day. I will return after we instal my cams and have it tuned. Next time I will go back on a cooler day in the fall and see what it does.