Inching closer...any tricks to break 300 RWHP?

[QDRHRSE]

15-20 hp might be found with manual steering and light weight oil. They have 0 weight synthetic which has been used in NASCAR for a long time. I don't know about running 0 weight all the time but it works at the track and on the dyno. Like Houston said, you're low on option with your set up. Did you ever consider the fact that a bigger mass air or TB could take away power? Also, 5.0 magazine just did a test and claims that you can find some HP by putting a 1.7 rocker on the exhaust only. It makes sense since Ford heads are notoriously weak on the exahaust. The weird thing is that they made more power with 1.6's on the intake and 1.7's on the exhaust than they made with 1.7's on both. This is the kind of weird stuff your going to have to try. Did you try switching Dyno's? They don't all read the same. Maybe on a differnt dyno you do make 300hp.

 

[astronut1885]

I read that rocker thing, and they said right in the article that it could variate from car to car. Right now I'm entering my sophomore year in nursing school, so I can't afford to upgrade my H/C/I. And like I said, hopefully in two years I'll be building a 331 motor, and that will be seeing AFR 185s and an RPM intake or something big like that, with a big cam in the middle. Right now, I just want to squeeze what I can from my motor on a budget that is near nothing. I can't afford to swap main parts (and I just built the motor four months ago), I can't afford porting, nor can I have the car out of comission for more than like two days at a shot, and I'm almost out of bolt ons. I don't see how a bigger TB and MAF could rob power, my motor is more air hungry than a stocker, and the stock TB and MAF choke the stock setup. I think I'll see some good torque gains, and maybe 10 HP just by opening up the air path to the intake with those parts. On top of that, the fan conversion should give me a few more, and lessen drag on the motor and pump. My main point of this thread was to see if anyone picked up on something small I missed, like if I didn't have underdrive pullies or something like that (which I do, just an example). I think after the MAF, TB, fan, and injectors, that I'm about out of bolt on options. There's always someone who comes up with a "try this, you might get a few HP out of it" idea, and sometimes they work. That was what I was shooting for...

 

[BlackFox5.0]

There's always someone who comes up with a "try this, you might get a few HP out of it" idea, and sometimes they work. That was what I was shooting for...

Try a blower, sometimes they add a little bit of power. I love mine, regardless.

 

[astronut1885]

 

[04sleeper]

Port the heads, port the intake, Have the heads CC'd and bring them down to around 58. Get a better mass air (ie. Pro-M 80) . It says you are running an E-Cam with 1.72??? Cahnge to 1.60. You don't need bigger injectors to make any more power 19's are good up to around the 330 RWHP mark. Also get an electric fan to free up some HP. Long tubes at this point will not get you much. Also what size TB do you have? Get at least a 65MM. It will be plenty for your combo.
Your combo of parts could make 300 RWHP if they are maxamized.

 

[tmoss]

You didn't give a budget, that would help. Since you can't afford a TwEECer to fine tune your air/fuel and spark curves, do the coarse tuning if you have an adjustable fuel regulator and tune timing too if you haven't already. Cutting back the electrode on the spark plug and indexing the plugs can add a few HP. There is always playing with the belt configurations too, unless you want the HP in truely streetable trim.

 

[astronut1885]

Smog pump bypassed, A/C getting deleted as soon as my kit arrives.
Timing set to 15* BTDC
Fuel Pressure set to 41 PSI

I want to do this without pulling the heads. I can't afford porting work right now, and everyone said I'd be stupid to put more money into the heads instead of buying new ones. I also can't afford new rockers, and dropping to 1.6 probably won't give me more power, it'll just reduce stress on the valvetrain. I plan on getting those this winter anyway.

 

[BlackFox5.0]

Well your not going to get 300rwhp without a power adder of porting, so you are stuck just about where you are, that is all. I think you expect more than what you have, I think we all do.....

 

[Ranchero5.0]

Ditto most of the above except longtubes are worth much more than 1-2hp. I noticed a huge increase in torque around 2500rpm, an honest 15-20 lbft.

For porting you can do #1 and #5 runner in the lower intake and pick up a good bit of power because they are so pinched in OEM form.

Another option is pull your catback and H pipe off and look at the exit flanges on the headers and H pipe. Take a dremel with a sanding drum and open up the flanges until the carbon marks are gone where the next pipe buts up against it and it's worth enough you'll notice it. Heck, I measured from 2 1/8" on my BBK longtubes up to 2 1/2" once I was done and they sealed up fine. Car sounded different and ran better still.

Pull the headers off and look at the head flange. Clean up any excess weld and smooth and rough edges where the exhaust flows into the header. You can do the same with your throttle body inlet and all the way through the motor. Power is all about airflow efficiency.

Jamie

 

[Stang89LXCPE]

I'm in the same boat too, looking for a few extra ponies to get me to the mark.

Port the lower intake, longtubes, 65 mm tb, synthetic oil, aluminum d/s, electric fan, shortbelt, etc.

You *might* pick up a few hp with a 70 mm tb, but you will lose some torque, it is a tradeoff.

If I throw an electric fan, aluminum driveshaft, and put full synthetic in the tranny engine and rear I might hit the 300 mark.

The heads are capable, just need a little work.

Like some one else said, "port" your exhaust. some of the cheaper headers and hpipes are really restrictive.

 

[astronut1885]

I have 300.00 FRPP headers, I have an aluminum driveshaft, and a MK VIII electric fan will be on in a few weeks. I'll be going with a 70mm TB/EGR spacer, because my motor moves alot of air. 65 is good for stock and mildly modded (bolt on) motors, but 70 is the ticket for h.c.i motors.

 

[IndyBlk5.0]

they are just gt40p heads, nothing too awefully special
your engine is basically a mild 302. 65mm is fine.

 

[Grn92LX]

I have 300.00 FRPP headers, I have an aluminum driveshaft, and a MK VIII electric fan will be on in a few weeks. I'll be going with a 70mm TB/EGR spacer, because my motor moves alot of air. 65 is good for stock and mildly modded (bolt on) motors, but 70 is the ticket for h.c.i motors.

Actually, 75mm is the ticket if your manifold inlet is 75mm. The elec fan isn't gonna add much, if any hp. I would know, I have an sn95 elec fan and saw no real improvement on the dyno

 

[astronut1885]

Taking load off the water pump pulley will add power at low RPM, where the clutch fan would have engaged. My motor is a little beyond "mild", my numbers are low because I had some bad problems with tuning on the dyno. My manifold inlet is 70mm I believe, and the comment about my heads, I Never said they were special, the guy made a comment about porting my headers, which I've never heard of. The headers alone go for 300.

 

[payupsucka]

i made 310rwhp with my combo with a 65 mm tb and a 70 mm mass air meter

 

[IndyBlk5.0]

dont get defensive, i just think you going overboard with your air intake. keep velocity up, thats the key. Look at what payupsucka made with tw heads and other goodies with 65mm tbody... 65 tbody is pleanty.

 

[astronut1885]

I plan on a blower in two years, so I don't want to be buying another TB, I'll already be buying new injectors and crap like that.

 

[tmoss]

Tube headers do not get "ported" but I bet what he meant is the internal welds at the head flange were ground out and the welds moved to the outside for more cross section.

 

[PUZMAN]

Meeting your goal

Hey man,

Port the intake, port the heads, get a intake spacer. Free up the front end with bigger intake tube, mass air, throtle boddy and injectors. With some good work into those heads you should have no troble meeting your goal.

Free mods are the clutch fan like you stated, thats worth some points. I wouldnt bother with the electrick water pump, if you have underdrive pullies your not going to gain much. If you went to long tubes it would help but unless you go to a set with out the ball style conector your only going to pick up 1-5hp. if you get ones with a 3 bolt flange i have seen cars pick up 10-15 hp. Other then that play with the timing and fuel pressure. that should bring you very close!

 

[Stang89LXCPE]

Another option is pull your catback and H pipe off and look at the exit flanges on the headers and H pipe. Take a dremel with a sanding drum and open up the flanges until the carbon marks are gone where the next pipe buts up against it and it's worth enough you'll notice it. Heck, I measured from 2 1/8" on my BBK longtubes up to 2 1/2" once I was done and they sealed up fine. Car sounded different and ran better still.

Pull the headers off and look at the head flange. Clean up any excess weld and smooth and rough edges where the exhaust flows into the header. You can do the same with your throttle body inlet and all the way through the motor. Power is all about airflow efficiency.

Jamie

This is what I meant by "porting" your exhaust. That's why it was in "quotes"


Also MMFF did a TB test about six months ago and the 65 mm performed the best for E.T. wise on an aluminum Gt-40 headed motor. I'll see if I can dig it up.