Injector Leak?

[ned911]

I've got a strong gas smell that is located under the upper intake which I believe is being cause by leaky injectors. Motor is completely stock other than the air silencer being removed.

Do I need to replace the injectors, probably not a bad idea? Which injectors should I get? Will Ford Racing work or will they dump to much fuel for the stock motor?

Probably a year or more away from motor rebuild.

Ned

 

[HISSIN50]

Jrichker has posted a nifty test for testing injectors - using compressed air, the injectors (on a bench) and a cup of slightly soapy water. i bet he follows up with the info (if not search - i dont want to misquote his info).

if you choose to replace the injectors: get what fits your mods. are you still SD? the Ford injectors work pretty well. remember, within reason the puter will compensate to reach stoich - via cutting the pulsewidth if you choose a slightly too fat injector (dont go overboard where you are having spray issues - i prefer to run an injector at 90-95% duty cycle).

my two cents. good luck.

 

[giddyup306]

It may be as simple as just replacing the o-rings on the injectors.

 

[5spd GT]

It may be as simple as just replacing the o-rings on the injectors.

Yep...and the Ford Racing 19lb injectors are the same as the stock ones and will flow the same...they are the yellow/brown/organish looking ones

I get a fuel smell to by the motor but no leak is detected by me...I pass it off as normal for my setup...

 

[89lxsport50]

I had the same thing happen a while back. I think it was an o ring leaking. I figured if I was going to go to the trouble to replace the o ring, I might as well replace the 15 year old injectors and fuel pressure regulator. I got the Ford Racing 19# ones from Summit. So far so good.

 

[ned911]

Thanks guys. Didn't know the 19lbers where the same as stock. Time to head over to Summit Racing.com and grab some injectors and a regulator.

BTW- Car is still SD. I've done all the body work but my other race car has been taking all my car $'s lately.

Ned

 

[ponyboy19]

I'd just buy and oring kit and go through them.. I probably wouldn't buy a whole new injector kit if it was me. I had the same problem. turned out that one of the injectors lower oring had a chunk missing. Grabbed a spare oring i had laying around and problem solved.

 

[bryanrevans]

Does the car run ok???Just because you smell fuel dont asume u need new injectors!!!!!Just to get to the f*uckers is a pain!!!There are other sources of the extra fuel layin arround.I just went through the same thing.

 

[jrichker]

The 87-88 model cars had a problem with the injectors weeping between the plastic injector body & the metal cap where the upper O ring fits. The only fix for the weeping injectors is to replace them.

Fuel injector seal kits with 2 O rings and a pintle cap (Borg-Warner P/N 274081) are available at Pep Boys auto parts. Cost is about $2.74 per kit. The pintle caps fit either injectors with a pin sticking out the injector end or 4 with more tiny holes in the injector end. The following are listed at the Borg-Warner site ( http://www.borg-warner.com ) as being resellers of Borg-Warner parts:

http://www.partsplus.com/ or http://www.autovalue.com/ or http://www.pepboys.com/ or http://www.federatedautoparts.com/

Most of the links above have store locators for find a store in your area.

You'll need the fuel line tools to do the job. Look in the A/C repair section for the fuel line tools. They look like little plastic top hats. You will need the 1/2" & 5/8" ones. The hat shaped section goes on facing the large part of the coupling. Then you press hard on the brim until it forces the sleeve into the coupling and releases the spring. You may need someone to pull on the line while you press on the coupling. Put some motor oil on them when you put the line back together.

 

[ned911]

Took a trip up to 50Resto and got new injectors. Of course now I can't get the bloody intake cover off to get to the 2 middle bolts. Have already broken 2 torque drivers, soaking in penetrating oil now.

There's always something to make a job become a PITA and take 10x longer than it should.

Ned

 

[5spd GT]

Took a trip up to 50Resto and got new injectors. Of course now I can't get the bloody intake cover off to get to the 2 middle bolts. Have already broken 2 torque drivers, soaking in penetrating oil now.

There's always something to make a job become a PITA and take 10x longer than it should.

Ned

Their just held in my screws aren't they (4 of them?)...the hardest part for me on taking the upper off is properly disconnecting all the hoses with that little of room...

 

[giddyup306]

If I would have known you were going to get new injectors, I would have given you a set of 19#ers.

 

[ned911]

Got everything off to the point of disconnecting the fuel rail when I stopped for the night. Will get back on it again this afternoon.

So far the biggest PITA was disconnecting all the hoses to the intake in a small amount of space. Also trying to figure out why the intake wouldn't come off... damn grounding strap

Ned

 

[jrichker]

So far the biggest PITA was disconnecting all the hoses to the intake in a small amount of space. Also trying to figure out why the intake wouldn't come off... damn grounding strap

Ned

Just don't forget to put that grounding strap back on, clean & tight. If it is damaged or missing, you can have more hard to find tune & electrical problems than your worst nightmares. It is the power ground for the alternator to the frame.

 

[89lxsport50]

Grounding strap? Your upper intake has a grounding strap? Mine doesn't. There is a pain in the ass bracket attached to the passenger side rear bolt. That was the only thing I struggled with while replacing my injectors. By the way, be careful when tightening the fuel rail bolts. It is easy to snap the heads off of them.

 

[5spd GT]

I don't have a grounding strap?...where is it supposed to be located exactly?

You don't have to disconnect the fuel lines...you can just unbolt them and swing them out of the way...

 

[jerry beach]

I don't have a grounding strap?...where is it supposed to be located exactly?

You don't have to disconnect the fuel lines...you can just unbolt them and swing them out of the way...

Yes, just swing the rails out of the way, I changed the lower intake and didnt take my fuel lines loose. Its a good time to replace all the rubber hoses under the upper intake also. They will be very dried out. And as stated dont overtighten the fuel rail bolts, or the upper intake bolts. They are easy to strip because they screw into aluminum.

 

[jrichker]

I don't have a grounding strap?...where is it supposed to be located exactly?

You don't have to disconnect the fuel lines...you can just unbolt them and swing them out of the way...

The secondary power ground is between the back of the intake manifold and the driver's side firewall. It is often missing or loose. It supplies ground for the alternator and other electrical accessories such as the gauges. Any car that has a 3G alternator needs a 4 gauge ground wire running from the block to the chassis ground where the battery pigtail ground connects.

 

[5spd GT]

The secondary power ground is between the back of the intake manifold and the driver's side firewall. It is often missing or loose. It supplies ground for the alternator and other electrical accessories such as the gauges. Any car that has a 3G alternator needs a 4 gauge ground wire running from the block to the chassis ground where the battery pigtail ground connects.

My 4guage wires runs from my alternator to the starter solenoid (the one with all the wires on it)...been running like that for almost a year now...is that what your talking about...

Is the ground strap color coded? I know I've got a ground strap that goes on the back of my head on the driver side...

 

[ned911]

Just want to thank everyone for their help. Job done. Car started right off the bat and no leaking fuel.

Getting a bit of surge so I've either left a vacuum line off somewhere or the O2 sensors are causing it. Changing O2s tomorrow.

Ned