intake swap tomorrow,question

My favorite trick that saves time and effort is the stay in place gasket. Be sure that you scrape (don't use a wire brush) all the old gasket material off, then clean all the surfaces with acetone or MEK.

When the surfaces are clean, use weather strip adhesive on the head to manifold surface, and on the side of the gasket that mates to the head. Follow the instructions on the tube or can and when it gets tacky, press the gasket down on the head.

Clean the area where the rubber rails mount to the block in front and in the rear with more acetone or MEK and do the same trick with the weather strip adhesive that you did to the heads.

Coat the rubber seals and the gasket area around the water passages with lots of Blue Silicone gasket sealer and put it together. Wala! no leaks, and no gaskets that shifted out of place.

If you reuse the injectors from your old setup, a repair kit is available from most auto parts stores if needed. Coat the injector body "O" rings with oil before you use them and everything will slide back together. Take the other advice you got here and run with it.

Fuel injector seal kits with 2 O rings and a pintle cap (Borg-Warner P/N 274081) are available at Pep Boys auto parts. Cost is about $2.74 per kit. The following are listed at the Borg-Warner site ( http://www.borg-warner.com ) as being resellers of Borg-Warner parts:
 
jrichker said:
Coat the rubber seals and the gasket area around the water passages with lots of Blue Silicone gasket sealer and put it together. Wala! no leaks, and no gaskets that shifted out of place.

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i have never taken off the lower before. two blue rubber seals that came with the gasket set. is this what you mean about the water passage?
 
legalize420gt95 said:
i have never taken off the lower before. two blue rubber seals that came with the gasket set. is this what you mean about the water passage?
Yes that is what he is talking about it works great its cheap ins. saves time and headaches after you spend all that time putting it back together just to find out their is a leak from the seal its happened to me a time or two in the past when i first started out working on cars :D
 
2.3 is gone said:
Yes that is what he is talking about it works great its cheap ins. saves time and headaches after you spend all that time putting it back together just to find out their is a leak from the seal its happened to me a time or two in the past when i first started out working on cars :D

will i see where they go once i get the lower off?
 
The rubber seals go on the block between the heads on both ends of the intake. I believe he is referring to placing a thin layer of blue silicone around the water passages. The rubber seals referred to above will need approx. an 1/8 inch of blue silicone.
 
i was going to start it tomorrow but i started a little over an hour ago. the lower is moving freely but i am having problems with the hoses to the heater tubes(i think thats what they are). also, i cant get the dizzy out. i cant get a wrench or a socket on the bolt. well i kinda can but i cant turn it.very wierd angle.any suggestions
 
i took the housing off of the intake and the thermostat came flying out. does the side with the spring go towards the front of the car? there seemed to be some knid of sealer on the stock one. i have the new gasket but do you need to seal the housing to the intake? also,should i just use silicone instead of the rubber pieces(on the block) that came with the gaskets?