intake swap tomorrow,question

legalize420

Active Member

May 21, 2005

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South Florida

Jul 8, 2005

#1

• Jul 8, 2005

• #1

which silicone do i need and where do i put it?

 

dstanggt50

Founding Member

Sep 13, 2000

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Woodinville, WA

Jul 8, 2005

#2

• Jul 8, 2005

• #2

I use permatex black, and use it for the end pieces, and just use the gaskets for the rest.

 

jrichker

StangNet's favorite TOOL

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Mar 10, 2000

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Dublin GA

Jul 8, 2005

#3

• Jul 8, 2005

• #3

My favorite trick that saves time and effort is the stay in place gasket. Be sure that you scrape (don't use a wire brush) all the old gasket material off, then clean all the surfaces with acetone or MEK.

When the surfaces are clean, use weather strip adhesive on the head to manifold surface, and on the side of the gasket that mates to the head. Follow the instructions on the tube or can and when it gets tacky, press the gasket down on the head.

Clean the area where the rubber rails mount to the block in front and in the rear with more acetone or MEK and do the same trick with the weather strip adhesive that you did to the heads.

Coat the rubber seals and the gasket area around the water passages with lots of Blue Silicone gasket sealer and put it together. Wala! no leaks, and no gaskets that shifted out of place.

If you reuse the injectors from your old setup, a repair kit is available from most auto parts stores if needed. Coat the injector body "O" rings with oil before you use them and everything will slide back together. Take the other advice you got here and run with it.

Fuel injector seal kits with 2 O rings and a pintle cap (Borg-Warner P/N 274081) are available at Pep Boys auto parts. Cost is about $2.74 per kit. The following are listed at the Borg-Warner site ( http://www.borg-warner.com ) as being resellers of Borg-Warner parts:

 

legalize420

Active Member

May 21, 2005

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Jul 8, 2005

#4

• Jul 8, 2005

• #4

jrichker said:

Coat the rubber seals and the gasket area around the water passages with lots of Blue Silicone gasket sealer and put it together. Wala! no leaks, and no gaskets that shifted out of place.

:

Click to expand...

i have never taken off the lower before. two blue rubber seals that came with the gasket set. is this what you mean about the water passage?

 

2

2.3 is gone

New Member

Jun 27, 2005

2

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dallas tx

Jul 8, 2005

#5

• Jul 8, 2005

• #5

legalize420gt95 said:

i have never taken off the lower before. two blue rubber seals that came with the gasket set. is this what you mean about the water passage?

Click to expand...

Yes that is what he is talking about it works great its cheap ins. saves time and headaches after you spend all that time putting it back together just to find out their is a leak from the seal its happened to me a time or two in the past when i first started out working on cars

 

legalize420

Active Member

May 21, 2005

1,541

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South Florida

Jul 8, 2005

#6

• Jul 8, 2005

• #6

2.3 is gone said:

Yes that is what he is talking about it works great its cheap ins. saves time and headaches after you spend all that time putting it back together just to find out their is a leak from the seal its happened to me a time or two in the past when i first started out working on cars

Click to expand...

will i see where they go once i get the lower off?

 

67coupe

Founding Member

Apr 5, 2002

658

402

93

Huntsville, AL

Jul 8, 2005

#7

• Jul 8, 2005

• #7

The rubber seals go on the block between the heads on both ends of the intake. I believe he is referring to placing a thin layer of blue silicone around the water passages. The rubber seals referred to above will need approx. an 1/8 inch of blue silicone.

 

legalize420

Active Member

May 21, 2005

1,541

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South Florida

Jul 8, 2005

#8

• Jul 8, 2005

• #8

i was going to start it tomorrow but i started a little over an hour ago. the lower is moving freely but i am having problems with the hoses to the heater tubes(i think thats what they are). also, i cant get the dizzy out. i cant get a wrench or a socket on the bolt. well i kinda can but i cant turn it.very wierd angle.any suggestions

 

legalize420

Active Member

May 21, 2005

1,541

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37

South Florida

Jul 8, 2005

#9

• Jul 8, 2005

• #9

i got the lower off. how much cleaning do i have to do. do the mating surfaces have to be spotless. how do i clean it with anything droping in the heads.

 

codemonkey

Hungrymonkey's helper monkey

Nov 4, 2004

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Wilsonville, OR

Jul 8, 2005

#10

• Jul 8, 2005

• #10

yeah, you want the mating surfaces clean as can be. Use a paint scraper.

To keep stuff out of the heads, stuff a napkin in each port, and pull them out slowly and carefully when you are done.

 

legalize420

Active Member

May 21, 2005

1,541

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37

South Florida

Jul 8, 2005

#11

• Jul 8, 2005

• #11

codemonkey said:

yeah, you want the mating surfaces clean as can be. Use a paint scraper.

To keep stuff out of the heads, stuff a napkin in each port, and pull them out slowly and carefully when you are done.

Click to expand...

sounds good,thanks

 

67coupe

Founding Member

Apr 5, 2002

658

402

93

Huntsville, AL

Jul 8, 2005

#12

• Jul 8, 2005

• #12

I would also suggest using a shop vac and sucking the heads and lifter valley dry. Dont forget to wipe the mating surfaces with carb cleaner or something similar.

 

legalize420

Active Member

May 21, 2005

1,541

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37

South Florida

Jul 8, 2005

#13

• Jul 8, 2005

• #13

i took the housing off of the intake and the thermostat came flying out. does the side with the spring go towards the front of the car? there seemed to be some knid of sealer on the stock one. i have the new gasket but do you need to seal the housing to the intake? also,should i just use silicone instead of the rubber pieces(on the block) that came with the gaskets?