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Interesting Starting Issues, please help

  • Thread starter Thread starter ebelizard
  • Start date Start date Mar 22, 2010
E

ebelizard

New Member
Jan 1, 2010
30
0
0
Mar 22, 2010
#1
  • Mar 22, 2010
  • #1
After searching the forum, I havent been able to find out exactly what the problem is...

For some reason I have to spray engine starter fluid into the carb in order to get it to start, and then it idles rough until the engine warms up. After it warms up, it will fire up no problem.

I've adjusted the carb to run at 1k rpm, and a little on the leaner side for economical driving. When starting up, it still backfires a little, but not much.

Anyone have any suggestions?
 

firemansam

Member
Feb 16, 2010
113
0
17
Mississippi/Iraq
Mar 22, 2010
#2
  • Mar 22, 2010
  • #2
dont know what you are running but i had a similar problem with my 66 200 I6 and finally found out that the choke used a small copper or brass tube that connected to the exhaust manifold inorder to operate properly, and i had my carb adjusted all wrong. once i fixed those two issues it would start perfect no mater weather or anything. like i said dont know what you have or anything but that was what fixed mine
 
E

ebelizard

New Member
Jan 1, 2010
30
0
0
Mar 22, 2010
#3
  • Mar 22, 2010
  • #3
i have a Edelbrock 1406 Performer Series carb, dont know what exactly your talking about though. I have a 302, with a AT. All vacume lines seem to be plugged or properly installed...
 
P

pyroman

Founding Member
Jul 28, 2002
480
3
18
Ennis, Texas
Mar 22, 2010
#4
  • Mar 22, 2010
  • #4
Sounds like a choke issue to me. I had very similar symptoms with my 302 just the other day. Turned out (my fault) that when I took off the electric choke cap and tried to reinstall it, I warped the "spring" inside the cap. I threw on the other cap I had and adjusted it properly and the car fired up immediately. Is yours an electric choke?
 

firemansam

Member
Feb 16, 2010
113
0
17
Mississippi/Iraq
Mar 22, 2010
#5
  • Mar 22, 2010
  • #5
ebelizard i was referring basically the same thing pyroman was talkin about, the choke was malfunctioning in some maner and that was causing a similar situation to what you have. although my application was different than yours the problem may still be the same... check the choke mechanism and see what that yeilds...
 
E

ebelizard

New Member
Jan 1, 2010
30
0
0
Mar 22, 2010
#6
  • Mar 22, 2010
  • #6
My choke is manual, its operated through a push/pull lever in the cabin on the dash.... I'm confused how this could cause start up problems
 
P

pyroman

Founding Member
Jul 28, 2002
480
3
18
Ennis, Texas
Mar 22, 2010
#7
  • Mar 22, 2010
  • #7
Have you made any recent changes to the car, engine, etc? Or did this just sort of spawn out of the blue? Have you tried playing with the choke (leaving it closed while starting or anything else)?
 
6

68RCodeConv

New Member
Oct 2, 2003
345
0
0
Houston, TX
Mar 23, 2010
#8
  • Mar 23, 2010
  • #8
If you choke it too much it will not run properly. If it does not have enough choke it will not run properly when cold.

I get mine started with the (manual) choke off and a lot of accelerator pumping. Once I get it started I adjust the choke until I get it in the optimal place. As the motor warms I slowly back it off.
 

PM 65

Active Member
Nov 2, 2005
72
0
26
Austria (Europe)
Mar 24, 2010
#9
  • Mar 24, 2010
  • #9
My cold starting procedure is similar to 68RCodeConv.

Cold Start without pulling the choke. Just pumping the gas pedal 2-3times, waiting 2-3 seconds. Starting with the gaspedal pushed ~1/4 way down.
The engine starts, then i keep her alive the next ~10 seconds with the gas pedal. After that time the egine runs roughly on her own and after a minute warmup the idle turns smooth. I never need the choke, but also i only drive the car in warm months. No winter driving...
When i try to start the engine with the choke pulled or half pulled the result is nothing, no starting! So i always start without choke.
My Setup is: 289, 600 Holley Doublepumper, manual choke and transmission
 
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