Just got Her home: 1990 Mustang GT, fresh paint!

blueink · Jan 14, 2009

It looks like I will be spending alot more time in the 5.0 Section from now on, I just sold my 2000GT and replaced it with the following:

Its a 1990 Mustang GT, 5sp with some small bolts ons. Im really loving the car so far! The thing I love the most about it is the paint job! Previous owners said it was painted about less than 1 yr ago, door jams and all. Car has all original body panels, VinTags were masked off really well when is was resprayed, Ive checked the vintags on the body and they match! WOot! The car has 161k Miles, black/grey interior is just about mint, it drives and rides well for what it is. So far everything is good, the only thing wrong with it so far that I can tell is 2nd gear on the T5 likes to come out unless I hold the shifter firmly back, but Im thinking the shift stop on the hurst is not set up properly, King cobra clutch is stiff as Fack! Im going to get it replaced with a Fidanza 1.0 kit from AmericanMuslce, as soon as I find out whats really going on with the 2ng gear, might pick up a trans if needed. Dyno sheet from Stritcly shows the car at 286whp/314TQ

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66sprint6 · Jan 14, 2009

Wow...not only a clean car but its puttin down stout stout numbers!!! What alls done to it to get those numbers? Congrats on the purchase, she wont let you down!
Matt

1990Coupe · Jan 14, 2009

Any details on the setup??? H/C/I car???

Those are some great numbers

PS beautiful car too!!!

SVT32VDOHC · Jan 14, 2009

That car looks nice. Congrats. Those are strong numbers for a bolt on fox.

2nd gear doing what it's doing sounds like just a synchro. T5's are easy to pull. I had mine out in literally 25 minutes. When you do the clutch, have the trans fixed too. T5's are great transmission despite what everybody says about them. I've had great luck with them. Get the shifter checked out too. You don't want a set stop being adjusted wrong to cause more problems later.

NIKwoaC · Jan 14, 2009

I see the Cobra intake, but you have to have some nice heads/possibly cam for those numbers. Fill us in!

blueink · Jan 14, 2009

MODLIST

So this is the modlist i got from the seller, along with a chitload of receipts and two DYNOJET dynographs
suspension

eibach drag springs with airbag on passenger rear spring
lakewood drag struts and shocks
hotckis caster camber plates
welded subframe connectors
southside machine upper and lower lift bars

engine

senior sr dart heads
e303 cam
ford racing pulleys
long tube headers
off road h pipe
flowmaster exhaust dumped
ford racing aluminum drive shaft
ford racing king cobra clutch
75 mm edlebrock throttle bodies
c&l 75mm mass air
upper and lower cobra intake ported
msd ignition box
msd blaster coil
dablo sport chip and tune by stricly performance
ford racing smog pump elminator
adj. Fuel pressure regulator
ford racing 30lb fuel injectors
Ron Davies aluminum radiator
new alternator
new battery
9mm ford racing spark plug wire set
ford racing adj. Clutch cable
3.73 gears
anti slip rear lock (for both tires to spin at the same time)
exterior

harwood 2.5 in cowl hood
saleen rear wing
new set of all lights on car
new cooper tires all around

1990Coupe · Jan 14, 2009

Damn... thats alota work... Nice sleeper if you ask me!!!!

blueink · Jan 14, 2009

Im bout to head into the garage to check out the shifter and double check up on the stops, if not once I order the fidanza and it comes in, there are a couple of T5s and enven a Tremec 3550 locally for sale. Can anyone tell me anything about the t3550? How does it feel for daily driving? I didnt mind the notchy feel of the t45 in my 2000, is it anything like this, smoother? notchier? I just need something for daily/street driving, nothing crazy at all, just from point A to B, thats all this car will be used for. I dont want any TKOs mostly because of the $$$ and I have heard they are notchy and loud as fack!

NIKwoaC · Jan 14, 2009

blueink said:
...

anti slip rear lock (for both tires to spin at the same time)

...

No kidding, so that's what its for??

Haha

Duncan McDougal · Jan 14, 2009

blueink said:
Im bout to head into the garage to check out the shifter and double check up on the stops, if not once I order the fidanza and it comes in, there are a couple of T5s and enven a Tremec 3550 locally for sale. Can anyone tell me anything about the t3550? How does it feel for daily driving? I didnt mind the notchy feel of the t45 in my 2000, is it anything like this, smoother? notchier? I just need something for daily/street driving, nothing crazy at all, just from point A to B, thats all this car will be used for. I dont want any TKOs mostly because of the $$$ and I have heard they are notchy and loud as fack!

Rebuild the Transmission yourself to a T5Z spec. The parts will run you around $650 in parts and then you would have a brand new transmission, not a used one. This Link & This link should do you on manuals.

85_SS_302_Coupe · Jan 14, 2009

That's a healthy combo...i bet you'd break 300rwhp with a custom cam.

MAC'n89Blckstng · Jan 14, 2009

My buddies tko500 is real notchy but isn't loud at all. You got a nice set up there! I bet that thing goes like hell on the track with some slicks. Glad to see you go from modular motors to something more sensible. JK JK I dont want to offend any modular people.

NIKwoaC · Jan 14, 2009

85_SS_302_Coupe said:
That's a healthy combo...i bet you'd break 300rwhp with a custom cam.

+1, and you'd probably gain a few just by installing a CAI. Leaving the filter to draw in hot engine bay air is doing you no good.

Other than that, its a pretty stout car, man. Good purchase.

blueink · Jan 14, 2009

NikwoaC said:
+1, and you'd probably gain a few just by installing a CAI. Leaving the filter to draw in hot engine bay air is doing you no good.

Other than that, its a pretty stout car, man. Good purchase.

nah, Id hate for that CAI to suck in some water, IM not looking to make it any faster. Just going to get some seats for it, some black wheels, new tint, diff exhaust setup, audio setup and call it a wrap! oh n get the trans issue taken care of

85_SS_302_Coupe · Jan 14, 2009

Hell he'd probably break 300hp with 1.7 rockers or another cam with more lift like an X303 or TFS Stage 2. I'll second the CAI, get yourself a nice inner-fender kit and move the filter into the fender...that alone will make a huge difference. Then you could still get an electric fan and pick up a little more. With all that and a fresh tune i would say 320hp wouldn't be hard to find.

DocG · Jan 14, 2009

Nice looking ride! Sounds like more than a few bolt-ons!

LiquidGT · Jan 14, 2009

Very nice fox!

The stock airbox or a CAI is better than that exposed filter; and the CAI will not suck in any water. Those eBay knock off CAIs work just as good as the name brand ones.

68keyblr · Jan 14, 2009

Try replacing the clutch cable. I thought the same thing about my KC clutch after I installed it - then I put in a new clutch cable and it made a *huge* difference.

Awesome 'stang you got there

LaserSVT · Jan 14, 2009

Car is very clean and just looking at it I can see the previous owner cared well for it
Def do the CAI. It goes in the fender and wont pick up water (if it does thats cause the water is over the hood ) The filters like that get too much air turbulence and throw off the computer and can cost you 5-8 hp depending on tune and MAF. With a CAI and some code tweaking you I bet it sees 300 rwhp

It is very much a sleeper too!
Also on my last Fox I thought my trans was going out cause it popd out of 2nd really bad. Turned out that my short throw handle bolt was loose and kept the stick from going all the way back Just something to check

FastDriver · Jan 14, 2009

Don't waste your money on a new clutch. As long as the KC isn't slipping, there's nothing wrong with it and the stiffness isn't the clutch itself.

You should replace the clutch cable and ensure that there are no quick bends in the cable. I replaced mine with an SN95 cable because they are longer and I could route it through the K-member and away from my headers. Also, consider getting a firewall adjuster w/ adj clutch quadrant. Then you will have the most flexibility to determine how you want your clutch to engage and disengage. UPR makes an awesome setup, and I believe that the quadrant and firewall adjuster only cost me about $40.

Driving was terrible and replacing cables was absolutely miserable. I had a whole new car after I replaced it with the UPR adjuster, and SN95 cable. The clutch was as easy to push in as my honda accord with a Spec stage 3 (which is harder than a KC). This is possible because the UPR quadrant is sized to make pushing the pedal easier.

Chris

Just got Her home: 1990 Mustang GT, fresh paint!

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