Late model Roller 302 from efi to carb

iwannarace67

New Member
Sep 24, 2001
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Chicago, IL
I need some clarification on taking a EFI roller 302 and coverting it to carburation for use in my 1967 coupe w/ C4 tranny. I general don't understand much of what's needed (nothin fancy just to get it to run properly). And do I use the dist. from my old 302 (69) or the new one? What about the fuel system? Accesories?

Any help is appreciated.
 
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i did this conversion on my 66, of course i was upgrading from a 6, but it's all the same really. i ended up needing a flex plate because the 5.0 one wouldn't work with the bellhousing for the c4. i also needed a new oil pickup thingy, oil pan, intake, carb, (you probably already have these on your old 302 though) and an electric fuel pump + pressure regulator. I'm also almost positive you'll need to use your old distributer, i ended up with an MSD unit. only other things i did included drilling a hole so the dipstick would go up front as opposed to the side (new oil pan wouldn't work with old location) and i got some brackets from March so i could keep the nifty serpentine belt system.

Hope that helps
 
Differences I know of:
  • Your old distributor gear isn't compatilble with the roller cam.
  • Obviously swap out the intake and carb.
  • Mechanical fuel pump boss is blocked off on the 5.0.
  • Water pump is reverse rotation - exiting passenger side.

I'm sure someone can add to the list but that's all I can think of off the top of my head.
 
you can also use the early model timeing cover and the original accessories, brackets, radiator and fuel pump, however you'll have to buy a conversion harmonic balancer that has the right bolt pattern and offset for your early model pulleys but has the correct balance for the late model motor. they aren't very expensive, around 100 bucks or so i think
 
He can also swap the cam gear on his dist to a steel one to work with the roller cam. The fuel pump boss isn't blocked on the newer timing covers, It just plain isn't there, period. he'll also need to swap the fuel pump eccentric and the pin that pokes thru it to drive it from cam to cam. Or if he's got a later model two piece eccentric, it'll work without the pin. Flexplate is available from several sources, I believe B&M has the best price here at about $50-100 ( not sure on the exact price) And remember to plug the dipstick hole in the block.
 
I'm doing this right now for my cobra's motor.

I am using:
Performer 289 Intake manifold
Holley 600CFM Vac Sec. Carb
Unilite distributor with correct gear
Looking for a front sump oil pan & pick-up, may need to do some custom dipstick work
Electric fuel pump back by tank, keeping inertia switch for safety.

Looking at the Crane ignition box.

Close to your set-up?
 
well I haven't attempted the setup yet, just gathering info before I start. What is the correct gear for the dist. the original one off of the older (non efi) 302? And advice or hell even instructions on putting the fuel system together would be great seeing as this will probably be the first thing I do.
 
Summit makes a whole electric fuel pump kit. I used this set up on my 67, it worked great. Let me see if I can remeber what it came with. Fuel pump, fuel filter, 20' of stainless -6 gas line, all the pressure fittings, fuel presure regulator. I had to get 2 fittings for the holley carb besides that it was all there. I hope this helps. I just finished putting a new roller motor in my car. I actually brought my radator to the shop and they swithed the bottom whole to accept the reverse direction water pump.
 
A66Auto said:
I want to do the same thing but I have a 66 with a 4 speed. Will I have the same problems bolting the bell housing to the block?
There is no difference between the late model 5.0 bolt pattern and the one used on all Ford small blocks since 65. The differences lie in the balancing of the engine and the size of the flywheel. If you want to retain your 4 spd you will need the smaller 157 tooth flywheel with the later model 50 oz imbalance and these are available from many companies including Ford Racing Parts.
 
Ronstang said:
There is no difference between the late model 5.0 bolt pattern and the one used on all Ford small blocks since 65. The differences lie in the balancing of the engine and the size of the flywheel. If you want to retain your 4 spd you will need the smaller 157 tooth flywheel with the later model 50 oz imbalance and these are available from many companies including Ford Racing Parts.
He will also need an adapter bracket for the clutch pivot to hang from. The 79-up 302/5.0 blocks lack the hole that the clutch pivot hangs from.
 
iwannarace67 said:
well I haven't attempted the setup yet, just gathering info before I start. What is the correct gear for the dist. the original one off of the older (non efi) 302? And advice or hell even instructions on putting the fuel system together would be great seeing as this will probably be the first thing I do.
You will need a steel dist gear to match the steel roller cam. The inside diameter is something like .467 on your older distributor. All you need for a fuel system is what you have now. Just swap your timing cover and fuel pump along with the oil pan onto the 5.0 motor. And don't forget the fuel pump eccentric. I would also suggest using the one piece oil pan gasket from the 5.0 on the early front sump pan, they make life so much easier. Also use the pan rail stiffeners and the longer pan bolts with the one piece gasket
 
Is it even worth it then to move to a later model block for the roller lifters?

I have a 70 302 block and a 94 5.0 block and I wanted to build the 94 block becasue of the roller cam but buying a new fly wheel, piviot adaptor, radiator and elcetroic fuel pump kinda seems like alot. Is there really much of an inprovement? I am not a drag racer and I am just going to use it as a weekend and maybe sometimes daily driver. I want enough power to beat/run with a SS Z-28.
 
A66Auto said:
Is it even worth it then to move to a later model block for the roller lifters?

I have a 70 302 block and a 94 5.0 block and I wanted to build the 94 block becasue of the roller cam but buying a new fly wheel, piviot adaptor, radiator and elcetroic fuel pump kinda seems like alot. Is there really much of an inprovement? I am not a drag racer and I am just going to use it as a weekend and maybe sometimes daily driver. I want enough power to beat/run with a SS Z-28.
Your 70 should have a driver's side inlet water pump, so you will have one less worry there. Also like I stated before, just swap the timing cover and fuel pump eccentric along with the mech fuel pump to the 5.0. The pivot adapter isn't a big deal, they run about $40 ( not sure here, just what I seem to recall) In my opinion, the roller cam's benefits are worth the little bit of extra work. I'm running a carbed 5.0 in an 89 Ranger, and wouldn't have it any other way. As for the other's worrying ove rthe radiator thing, they're over-reacting, A longer lower hose will solve the inlet problem, if they've chosen to keep the EFI timing cover, or just swap in a 70 radiator.